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TKNick8350

TKNick8350 Anovos Armor to TK ESB

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1 hour ago, TKNick8350 said:

Is it necessary to add a return edge on to the extended kidney plate? Shimming and adding a 3 inches to my kidney plate.

No, nor is it a requirement. 

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So I’m heading out to see The Lion King, this is what I have as of right now. The extended plate is at 3 1/2 inches for now because I want make proper measurements towards my final cut. The only part glued in is the shim. I used Trooperbays abs plates. I wished I was a little smarter keeping the scrap. But his abs is thick as you see in the picture. This is the material I will be using, plastic is easy to sculpt out. To make the material more flushed, wheat grit sand paper should I use and what’s a good finishing grit? should I add a return edge to match kidney and Ab?

Stormtrooper kidney

 

Stormtrooper kidney

 

Stormtrooper kidney

 

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"To make the material more flushed, wheat grit sand paper should I use and what’s a good finishing grit? should I add a return edge to match kidney and Ab? "

 

400 grit and higher. Finishing 1200.

 

Return edge is not required. I personally would reduce the kidney return edge as you get closer to the extension.

 

Keep up the great work :jc_doublethumbup: 

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3 hours ago, ukswrath said:

"To make the material more flushed, wheat grit sand paper should I use and what’s a good finishing grit? should I add a return edge to match kidney and Ab? "

 

400 grit and higher. Finishing 1200.

 

Return edge is not required. I personally would reduce the kidney return edge as you get closer to the extension.

 

Keep up the great work :jc_doublethumbup: 

48524051931_0dc9168bac_b.jpg

something like that? For more flexibility?

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That will work yes. Not necessarily for flexibility but more to eliminate the square edge from digging into your ribs and waist.

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Test fit tonight, thanks to my love. We did our best to level the kidney the Ab plate tonight after dinner. 

48540545291_fdae24b5b3_b.jpg

 

(Above) As you can see on this picture the tape shifted.

48540549791_63d9837db4_b.jpg

Left side ^

 

We measured about two inches on both sides. But I’m thinking I should have it to possibly 2 1/2 inches to 3. The tape shows it at 3, but it’s at 2.

 

48540549691_9f15b45d92_b.jpg

 

48540699607_9345e83198_b.jpg

 

Below, the picture shows that I have gaps from my straps from Mr No Strips. Wondering what I can do with that issue, but no problem with the front straps.

48540549616_78c12b8a2b_b.jpg

 

Also, my back plate is digging in to me.

48540549921_7f86dbe7ff_b.jpg

 

And my collar on my front chest plate is cracking, should some of these edges be taken off with the level 2 to 3 centurion? I want to be very comfortable on troops, as well as making it screen accurate.

 

48540549306_8c040e5910_b.jpg

Stress cracks. “Nooooooooooooooooooooo”- Darth Vader

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15 hours ago, TKNick8350 said:

Below, the picture shows that I have gaps from my straps from Mr No Strips

No worries, you´re screen accurate. I would try to level that gap though by shortening the elastic or maybe it´s just a matter of your posture. 

vbrX5uc.png

15 hours ago, TKNick8350 said:

Also, my back plate is digging in to me.

Trimming and if that´s not enough - trim and a hoth bath. (trim lines are not precise)

3qGJES3.png

15 hours ago, TKNick8350 said:

And my collar on my front chest plate is cracking, should some of these edges be taken off with the level 2 to 3 centurion? I want to be very comfortable on troops, as well as making it screen accurate.

You are clear to trim:salute:

lDEPtfY.png

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The curve in on the shoulders of the Anovos backplate is insane.  Only the smallest troopers, who can literally let it rest on top of their shoulders, are going to be happy with the stock curve.  I'd highly recommend removing some return edge, and giving the nubs a hot water bath to straighten them a bit.

 

20160319234602-989ed27a-me.jpg

 

20160319234559-9a19712f-me.jpg

 

20160319234552-4eb0d406-me.jpg

 

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You have the option of removing some of the return edge from the chest (and back) plate or all of it.  Anovos armor is famous for cracking in these areas, as well as the in the neck openings.  Whether you opt to remove some or all of it, I suggest adding some inside shims made of scrap ABS in those areas.

w7P7Tpu.jpg

 

You can remove all of them and still be screen accurate:  (Note lack of return edge on the top of the kidneys as well).

 

                                                                                         Reference images

dqzYpb4.jpg?1    waUUutB.jpg?3

 

 

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Working on the kidney. I also worked on removing the neck return edge and reshaping the back plate with all of everyone’s help! Thank you all! I posted this on the Anovos group page. Hoping to not get a snarky response which I do get from time to time. I have some pitting where both kidney and sheet meet. Should I continue to use abs paste or use  bondo? I was thinking of using tamiya liquid surface primer as a filler. I have used this stuff with my model building and fills in gap really nicely, but I’m not sure how it will behave with movement.  Or only it’s a filler, it’s white and if needed to paint, it won’t show as much as the bondo would with it’s brick like color. 

 

48586659306_935b04eecf_b.jpg

 

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I found using ABS paste gives you a little more strength and is less likely to crack, where as filler (bondo) cracks very easily with flex

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So it has been 8/20 since my last post and yes, still fighting the kidney plate. I’m having issue with these small pits forming. I have filled them in at least more than four times and they are still there. 

  

48860319278_620a2c024c_b.jpg

Right side of Anovos Kidney

 

48860319018_2118e0f244_b.jpg

Pits.

48860319213_8aa3c16b06_b.jpg

Left side.

48860319013_d1035dfa21_b.jpg

More pits.

I am at this point stuck. The paste is not working. I let the paste sit more than 48 hours, like a week or two so it can be cured as can be. Sand it down, and just to see more eyes sores on my progress on this build. What’s the alternative now?

Edited by TKNick8350

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Personally, I wouldn't worry about it beyond this point.  That looks "smooth enough" to my eye.  The bigger issue might be the color shift, since you weren't able to match the Anovos white-ish coloring. (no one really can)  Perhaps our judges can opine as to what should be done at this point, assuming you're trying to get to Centurion?  You're more than ready for general approval, IMO, and possibly even EIB.  (assuming the rest of the build is complete, of course)

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On 10/14/2019 at 1:21 PM, kman said:

Personally, I wouldn't worry about it beyond this point.  That looks "smooth enough" to my eye.  The bigger issue might be the color shift, since you weren't able to match the Anovos white-ish coloring. (no one really can)  Perhaps our judges can opine as to what should be done at this point, assuming you're trying to get to Centurion?  You're more than ready for general approval, IMO, and possibly even EIB.  (assuming the rest of the build is complete, of course)

Thanks for your response. :) I was thinking of at this point, using white milliput and filling those pockets, sanding it smooth, and hopefully if anyone has the custom match, send out a sample so I can get it matched at a Napa automotive paint store. And with my ocd, lol I might need to reinforce the inner armor with my obsessive sanding, that there is some light bleeding through the armor.:deadhorse: I know that will be a easy fix since I can either T-shirt and super glue, or hobbytown sells fiberglass strips in the RC section and that’s simple to work with. 

I was going to build a centurion, but I can opt with EIB and later turn this to centurion down the road. Unless the “court” allows this. I don’t know how strict the Central California Garrison/ South Valley Squad is when it comes to this blemish on my armor. I just want to move

on from this phase and get to strapping.

48919230183_2e09064112_b.jpg

Here’s the light bleeding through the armor, and that’s the shim poking through.

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I specifically extented my Ab and Kidney plate molds to accommodate most size waist without shimming and can be trimmed down to your perfect waist size ;)

In the photo showing two built Torso's one  on the left was for a 41" waist and the other 46" these are actual waist size at belly button level not pants size but can fit up to 48" waist 

 

 

mf1vibj.jpg

 

G0k81YM.jpg

Edited by ABS80

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4 hours ago, ABS80 said:

I specifically extented my Ab and Kidney plate molds to accommodate most size waist without shimming and can be trimmed down to your perfect waist size ;)

In the photo showing two built Torso's one  on the left was for a 41" waist and the other 46" these are actual waist size at belly button level not pants size but can fit up to 48" waist

If only your armor's color matched Anovos, it would be a no-brainer to swap parts for yours. ;)  But since he has Anovos, there's only the stock size to work with, so shims are needed.

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5 hours ago, TKNick8350 said:

 

48919230183_2e09064112_b.jpg

 

It is a pain with the color difference, ABS paste can leave some pitting, I've only shimmed a couple of commission builds but I have managed to fill the pitting with bondo (auto filler) and then prime and color match by eye, bit of trial and error but makes it easy when you have air brush and can mix the paint yourself, manage to fade the paint out around the curve so it's not as noticeable and then polish.

 

Hopefully the auto paint shop will be able to color match for you. 

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17 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

It is a pain with the color difference, ABS paste can leave some pitting, I've only shimmed a couple of commission builds but I have managed to fill the pitting with bondo (auto filler) and then prime and color match by eye, bit of trial and error but makes it easy when you have air brush and can mix the paint yourself, manage to fade the paint out around the curve so it's not as noticeable and then polish.

 

Hopefully the auto paint shop will be able to color match for you. 

I can attempt this with an airbrush. What paints did you use? I’m thinking RC paints would stick better and flexes with the clear car body while on the chassis. I can attempt this!

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5 hours ago, TKNick8350 said:

I can attempt this with an airbrush. What paints did you use? I’m thinking RC paints would stick better and flexes with the clear car body while on the chassis. I can attempt this!

I normally use automotive acrylic paint, dries fast and goes on in thin coats, easy to polish also. I have use enamel (hobby) paint before it just takes a while to dry. 

 

Can help if you have any scrap abs or plastic sheet you can practice on to match.

 

Hope it works out, good luck

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Happy November everyone..I have finally completed my kidney plate on a positive note but, I believe this will sadly not be acceptable as an ESB Trooper. 
 

I ended up getting a filler used for abs bumpers to fill in the pitting and it did what the abs couldn’t do. 

49015643153_f3ff177f45_b.jpg

 

I then wet sanded it down with a fine sand paper I gotten at Auto Zone. 320, 400 and 600 was used.

I picked up a rattle can of Rustoleum 2x gloss white. Sprayed lightly and gotten this.

49015643163_2b8cd758c5_b.jpg

As you can see, the raw plastic and painted section is off. But...if you end up weathering the part that was fix, it will not show up as much. Sadly this might be my last thread for the ESB trooper I wanted to build. I believe I’m better off as a TD.
So it’s off for me to get the strapping done.

Edited by TKNick8350
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6 hours ago, TKNick8350 said:

 Sadly this might be my last thread for the ESB trooper I wanted to build. I believe I’m better off as a TD.

Is your choice of going TD because of the result of your shimming work?

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Hmm, looking at your last photo I would say you have done a great job. If there is a drastic difference it's certainly only showing as minor in your photo. The ABS has a slight cream tone compared to the white Rustoleum.

Well done I say.

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What ^^ said, based on that photo your work is Centurion-worthy so keep that ESB dream alive:salute:

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6 hours ago, Sly11 said:

Hmm, looking at your last photo I would say you have done a great job. If there is a drastic difference it's certainly only showing as minor in your photo. The ABS has a slight cream tone compared to the white Rustoleum.

Well done I say.

The abs on the plastic is milky while the Rustoleum is bright white. I did my best to feather it. It’s looks odd. But looks great!

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