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Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by kman

  1. Nail polish remover is usually Acetone combined with a number of other ingredients, skin conditioners, etc., such that the Acetone is not full strength. I'd recommend using full strength Acetone. A can of full strength construction-grade Acetone is only a few dollars at Home Depot or Lowe's.
  2. What power input does it require? 5v? Any chance of a USB power input to simplify connections?
  3. Did you emboss the 501st Legion into the side of the blaster? Hopefully just an option (I don't see it on the model files) for fun ... it's cool, but it won't pass approval if the judges see that.
  4. Welcome, Scott! Definitely try to make it to the next AP or meeting. We can definitely assist you in learning the most efficient ways of suiting up. There's definitely some technique to it, and the order you put it all on matters a lot!
  5. Looking great! I would make your top return edge before you start sanding the ABS paste. Less stress on the clean, finished surface. And yes, there needs to be *some* overlap between the ab and chest pieces. You don't want to be able to see undersuit. When there's minimal overlap, which is common for tall buys like us (I'm 6'3" as well), you'll want a very good connection between the two so your ab doesn't pop out as you move around. Once you're all armored up, it's hard to put back underneath, and also hard to notice this has occurred if you don't have friends watching out for you!
  6. Thigh ammo pack photos: Centered: Outside edge: Inside edge (already painted): Sniper Knee photos: Note no return edge on bottom of sniper knee: Note trimmed inside edge of sniper knee to show bend in underlying knee ridge: ab plate button cover photo:
  7. Nice progress! Have you figured out strapping yet? I'd work on that before you attach anything to the oil pan. Everything gets a lot more awkward once there are fragile things sticking out in multiple directions.
  8. Two people started Hyperfirm, and parted ways long ago. Hyperfirm continued in business until it closed up about a year ago, for reasons involving the sole remaining owner that have nothing to do with the quality of their blasters. The other original Hyperfirm guy, who had left, opened Praetorian Blasters after their split, but didn't do much until about 2-3 years ago, when they resurfaced and started selling high quality blasters... better detail than Hyperfirm, frankly. More money, too. Noticably lighter than Hyperfirm, which makes them great for trooping. (Hyperfirm had a nice satisfying weight, but for long troops, the lighter the better) They've become a lot more popular since Hyperfirm closed up, being the sole remaining high quality option. Praetorian is the best bet out there, IMO, for trooping, today. There's a UK-based company called ShearTech that is popular for our UK brothers, although IMO the detail is not as high as Praetorian, from what I've seen. If you want a high detail shelf queen, you can build a resin kit (beautiful detail, and inexpensive from places like DoopyDoos), but resin is fairly fragile and one drop that lands wrong can shatter it or break big chunks off. There are people who troop with them, but I personally never would. There's also the all metal kit from FieldMarshall which is a lot more money, but absolutely gorgeous. Metal, so far more durable than resin, but it's not an all steel legit Sterling submachine gun conversion, so it could dent or deform badly if dropped wrong. And much heavier than any of the rubber or resin blasters discussed. (although nowhere near as heavy as the 12lb+ Sterling conversions!) I wouldn't bother with the Hasbro conversion anymore. They were popular when they first came out, but there are a lot of details that are wrong (which is why they're explicitly called out for higher levels) and we have better options today. The Rubies blaster is stupid cheap, and great for the money, but other than an extreme budget choice while saving for a better option, I'm not a fan. (I do keep one in my bin as an emergency backup / loaner).
  9. Tandy's snaps didn't used to be branded. That actually changed about 2 years ago. Before that, they were plain. Old vs new: I'd feel fine using the Anovos snaps for these purposes. If any of them fails, replace it in the future, no big deal. Labeled vs. unlabeled makes no difference even for Centurion purposes. If someone's face is close enough to the Han snap (let alone the crotch strap LOL) to make out the lettering, we have other issues. You need a set of snap setting tools to install snaps. They're simple and inexpensive. You can buy them from Tandy or random Chinese ones online elsewhere. Personally, I bought a kit from Tandy that included a number of snaps and the setting tools. I paid less at the time (several years ago now) than the $15 they're asking now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003W0IIJK/ I patched the back of my belt, after cutting out the Anovos buttton covers. Spare plastic works perfectly. (doesn't even have to match exactly since you can't see it from the front anyway)
  10. And just to make sure we're all using the same terminology: These are what we (at FISD) commonly refer to as "popper snaps": (the ones you had pictured in your post, above) These are the style of snaps commonly referred to as "Line 24 snaps": ("Line 24" is technically Tandy's brand name / size designation for this style of snap, but it has become fairly ubiquitous and can be found referring to snaps of the same size and variety that were NOT made by Tandy, too. Anovos supplies "Line 24-style snaps" with their kits.) (Photos are not meant to be precise, and are not the right finish, etc., they were just handy on Wikipedia's page and show the two main variations nicely)
  11. I've only removed my ammo pack from my belt once in the 3+ years I've had it (which was quite simple, with the Chicago screws), so I personally recommend the Chicago screws over the snaps that Justin is recommending, but either will do the job. Go whichever way you prefer. My belt hasn't been damaged, so I think you're fine as long as you're not trying to press sharp folds. I used a dab of e6000 on the back to hold the drop boxes in place, although I'll be changing that method to Velcro, since I need them to be removable for some alternate armor configurations. (HWT) There's no need for rivets. Use whatever method you want to attach the elastic to the boxes. The popper snaps are NOT what you want for the one visible snap that gets mounted into the corner of the ab plate. You need the ones Anovos supplied, or Line 24 snaps. Popper snaps don't have the right base. I'm referring to the upper snap, here: These same snap types are also used for the crotch strap snaps in the butt plate, NOT the popper snaps (and not the front cod, that's just a smooth dome rivet). Those are good for internal strapping connections (shoulder straps in particular) and for the belt connection. Butt plate: Otherwise, I agree with Justin's advice, above.
  12. Or perhaps mix up a batch of Retr0bright, if you're going to be applying it regularly, to save some money over the commercial products. It's really simple. (recipe easily searched online)
  13. Most armor ships as bare plastic. You can find a list of needed accessories in this thread: I would consult build threads here on FISD, especially pinned reference threads, before depending on any instructions from a manufacturer. Some might be fine, others not so much. You could end up with wearable armor but if it's not built to 501st specifications, you'll have to fix it before you can be approved. Even moreso for higher level accuracy approvals like EIB and Centurion.
  14. As a tall trooper (6'3", 220#) I can relate, and agree that your best bet is AM and RT-Mod armor, both of which are made with larger troopers in mind. Other, more standard sized armors, are not going to fit you particularly well, even with substantial modifications. (Standard size legs just aren't going to look good on 6'4" legs, even if you can shim them big enough to close around your legs' girth the length is still an issue and nearly impossible to change, and standard ab and chest plates aren't going to be long enough to overlap properly.) Any armor is going to need significant work to assemble and fit, but those two will be closest. As to whether you can obtain one before Halloween (moreso with enough time to build), that depends on the wait times for armor makers. I believe RT-Mod has a pretty long wait time right now, unless they've whittled that down. AM is probably your best bet, but I still would reach out to them right away to see if it's possible to get it in hand, in time. Both makers are in Canada, so shipping to US destinations (which they do all the time) can have highly varied delivery times, depending on the mood of the US customs agent on the day it crosses their path, even if you pay for expedited shipping. Another factor to consider, on this tight timeline. All that said... it may be possible, so get on it!
  15. Correct. Recasting is very much frowned upon, and we don't recommend giving business to recasters, on moral grounds if nothing else. But as long as the armor is accurate (whether that's true depends on the individual recaster), it's assembled correctly, and fits you correctly, there's no reason why any given armor would not be approved just because of who made it.
  16. If you buy the real leather replica MP40 magazine pouches from Blaster8266 on MEPD, they come with black lightweight wood inserts already. They're a little more expensive, but I like that I can use them when I go Sandy someday, and already be at the highest accuracy level.
  17. The curve in on the shoulders of the Anovos backplate is insane. Only the smallest troopers, who can literally let it rest on top of their shoulders, are going to be happy with the stock curve. I'd highly recommend removing some return edge, and giving the nubs a hot water bath to straighten them a bit.
  18. The toy looks surprisingly close, but there are a few differences to the on-screen blaster. Fairly minor, but present.
  19. What Sly said. There's no rules... however it fits you best. I like some, visually, but if it's causing problems with fit, have no compunction about removing some or all. Personally, I'd recommend leaving it like you have it, and waiting to see how everything fits together, once you have the rigging done. If all is well, no need to remove more. If you need to tweak anything, it's an easy fix, and doing it later doesn't cause any harm.
  20. 'Sup, Justin! I'm curious about this build... wish I had known about it! I look forward to following this, though, and seeing the final product.
  21. You know, I just realized that you already put the sniper knee on. For some reason I was focused on the earlier photos, and thought I had time to warn you, but no. So it's your call, really. As long as they seem to fit you ok, it's one of those teeny tiny details that only 5 FISD members out of 100 would even notice, let alone the general public. Definitely doesn't affect approval, even all the way to Centurion. So it depends on how much it bothers you (if at all), as to whether it's worth fixing.
  22. Just a tip for the shins: The longer edge goes on the INSIDE of the leg, counter to what most would guess. I think you were wearing them backwards when they were taped up, and they were also swapped in the finished photo. Definitely reinforce those brackets on the inside. Anovos armor is very thin, and the screen-used bracketing system is hard on thin armor.
  23. Are you sure you don't mean 24-26 years? LOL
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