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POLL: What glue have you tried, what actually works


POLL - what is the best glue to use?  

165 members have voted

  1. 1. What glues have you actually tried?

    • ABS Cement
      63
    • E6000
      137
    • CA (Cyanoacrylate aka Superglue)
      83
    • 2 part epoxy
      50
    • Hot Glue
      52
    • Other
      22
    • DevCon Plastic Welder
      21
  2. 2. What glue do you think works best for HIPS?

    • ABS Cement
      6
    • E6000
      107
    • CA (Cyanoacrylate aka Superglue)
      18
    • 2 part epoxy
      5
    • Hot Glue
      4
    • Other
      21
    • DevCon Plastic Welder
      4
  3. 3. What glue do you think works best for ABS?

    • ABS Cement
      28
    • E6000
      100
    • CA (Cyanoacrylate aka Superglue)
      18
    • 2 part epoxy
      4
    • Hot Glue
      2
    • Other
      7
    • DevCon Plastic Welder
      6


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  • 7 months later...

I've used a great product called IPS Weld-on #16 acrylic solvent cement. It works magic on ABS and styrene but not sure about hips tough as I've never used this plastic, doh! The only thing is that it melts/welds the ABS together so make sure you have everything lined up properly as it's almost impossible to pull apart once dried.

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  • 1 month later...

I found another alternative to e6000, its called Bostik all purpose.

Its about the same consistency as e6000 and has the same rubbery properties once it cures, it seems to be just as strong too.

The best thing about it though is that its a lot easier to get here in the UK and its a hell of a lot cheaper :)( about £2 for 50ml although I've seen it for as little as £1 )

 

22_lge.jpg

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I hate E6000. It works, but man it is messy. Upside is its flexible and if you goof.. you can get it apart with out messing up your armor.

 

I like ABS cement. Drawbacks being that it does get brittle over time AND that it will in large quantities MELT your armor. Holds like nothing else however.

 

I agree with Runnriott here, E-6000 for me is for HIPS, ABSc is for ABS.

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I have tried em all. I prefer CA+ Zap-a-Gap and Zip kicker because it only takes a few seconds to set. Seriously, I can assemble an entire set of armor in one day. If you screw up then too bad, too late.... Well.. you might be able to pull the parts apart if you act quickly...The smell when the glue kicks will burn your eyes if you are not in a well ventilated area and are holding the parts too close to your face. Wear gloves...it IS super SUPER glue. :)

 

I like E-6000 but I dont have any need to pull parts apart and I dont make "many" assembly errors anymore. AND I have zero patience. It definitely is a close second for me and I know that many people prefer it. I like the rubbery feel and somewhat flexible feel it has. It smells pretty fowl too though.. :)

 

ABS glue is cheap and works great...sometimes too great :)

Plastic weld is great for some stuff.. Stinks :)

Edited by TK-4510
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I use Absol on ABS and Hipsol on HIPs or Liquid solvent cement works on both. It's clean and providing you use it correctly via capillary action. you will not find a better bond.

 

They get my vote but seeing as I don't have permission to vote for some unknown reason I won't!

 

:lol:

Edited by sskunky
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  • 1 year later...

After reading several posts on what glue to use it seamed that E6000 come up again and again so thats what ive used to do bits on my ABS suit and for a complete HIPS suit build and found it to do the job really well and worked a treat so its E6000 for me.

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  • 4 months later...

I started with Loctite 454 which is a kind of Cyanacrylate but of a gel like consistency instead of fluid. I discovered it did not work very well on my ABS armour. My plastic straps come undone from the chestplate without too much pressure, so I had to reattach them with E6000. Luckily I did order a tube of E6000 as well just in case. Of course the Loctite did eat into my armour, but since these locations are covered by the straps, there is not much harm done.

 

Also Patex clear should do the job, too. I haven't tried it though, as I was not willing to try another glue or buy another one.

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  • 2 months later...

RS Propmasters put this hard plastic adhesive in the kit I bought. I am planning to use E6000 from all of the builds and threads I've read, but I was wondering if anyone has use this one and if they recommend it.

 

adhesive01_zpsfbb0cce3.jpg

Edited by Echo
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  • 8 months later...

RS Propmasters put this hard plastic adhesive in the kit I bought. I am planning to use E6000 from all of the builds and threads I've read, but I was wondering if anyone has use this one and if they recommend it.

 

 

 

I am wondering the same thing about this glue.  It is Ethanol based and specific for plastics.  Does anyone know what generic category this stuff falls into?  Is it an ABS glue, a generic plastic glue, a CA glue, an industrial glue?

 

Since no one seems to have experience with this, I think I'll stick with either ABS cement or E-6000.

Edited by Kilryth
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  • 2 weeks later...

I decided to test the Three most popular ABS adhesives on some scrap 1.5mm Abs. I sanded the pieces, placed each adhesive between two pieces, let cure for 48 hours under clamp pressure, and performed a stress test on each.

 

Plastic welder (two part epoxy for ABS):

CAM00728_zps6c29b847.jpg

Did not budge when pressed/pulled each direction, but the epoxy IMMEDIATELY cracked and began separating when i mildly bent the abs by hand. It detached quickly, cleanly, and completely when flexed by hand. Reminds me of CA glue.. But longer cure time and messier.

 

E6000 white:

CAM00729_zps45300889.jpg

E6000 would not budge when pressed in all directions, and it had good elasticity when flexed. When flexing hard by hand, a very small gap was visible between the plastics, where the glue stretched. Gap pulled itself closed when pressure was released. When flexed with pliers, a larger gap was present and the gap only partially stretched back. When bent backwards with pliers, E6000 separated. Pieces were bent out of whack, but E6000 separated cleanly, allowing easy removal.

 

ABS Cement (Oatey black, clear also available):

CAM00730_zps0fa91027.jpg

Plastics welded together, as if one piece. Glue took on the properties of the abs plastic.. Allowing some flex, but cracking under extreme flex with pliers like abs plastic does. This was a LOT harder to separate using pliers, and it ripped the top layer of ABS from one piece. VERY strong bond but impossible to remove without taking plastic with it.. Your armor will likely crack before this join will.

 

Conclusion: E6000 for removable, very strong, a good flexible bond. ABS cement for permanent, very strong, very flexible bond. Plastic welder for rigid bonds that are not flexed.

Edited by Kilryth
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I use Liquid solvent cement for ABS and HIPS. Although I rarely use HIPS but it does bond.

 

Most people use it incorrectly. You are not supposed to apply it to the surfaces until the two are clamped together. You cannot really go wrong as long as you make sure the pieces are in the correct orientation before applying the liquid.

 

Technically you would use ABSOL for ABS and HIPSOL for HIPS but the universal liquid cement works.

 

I decant it into a needle bottle applicator which makes it easier to use

 

from this:

 

5061_Image_zps8bf0e6c0.jpg

 

to this

 

tl4000_zpsb2bde636.jpg

 

or you can use one of these(remember the top has a reverse thread) just dispose of the glue inside and replace with liquid solvent.

 

2917_zpsb2238cc7.jpg

 

You can apply it with a brush to the seam too but I find it quicker to use the bottle method.

 

Once the two parts are clamped securely together all you need do is run the needle down the seam and the liquid will seep into the two pieces in a capillary action and bond them together permanently and very cleanly....

 

Be careful not to let the liquid drip across armour as it will eat into it! You can sand it down and polish it if it does so not all is lost if you do drip it.

 

I have used this for years and it never fails me. It's clean and invisible bond.

Edited by sskunky
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Good advice sskunky, especially with the needle syringe!  I'm going to be using a glass syringe with a large diameter bore (5mm opening) to apply ABS cement, since the acetone would eat through a plastic syringe.  I normally use popsicle sticks to apply glue, but dripping it is risky with the ABS & acetone mix.

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  • 11 months later...

Ive asked this before, but Ill ask again.

 

Does anyone use 'Shoe Goo'...? From what I've been researching, E6000 dries to the same consistency and strength as Shoe Goo does. Like a silicone type hardness. And you can peel it off pretty cleanly depending on the surface once cured if necessary. 

Ive been trying all week all over Melbourne to find E6000, but no one seems to have heard of it. Im sure there is an easily obtainable substitute for Aussies....

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Have only used it to glue elastic to the inside of some armour parts, it sets harder than you may think. A medium level CA glue (super glue) gives you a little wiggle room before it locks your parts together, or you can get the Gel type that gives you even longer to adjust. Most of the builds going on in the Radback Garrison these days are using Super glue.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

After using E6000 to glue the lenses into my helmet my wife strictly forbade further use of it since it seemed to stink up the house for a few weeks after application. As a result I tried a bunch of different types of glues when it came time to start on the strapping system. I found that Acrylstik High Performance hot glue sticks at Jo Ann Fabrics (~$6) worked really well. You have to let the glue gun get nice and hot, use it liberally, and then let it sit for 1-2 hours before stressing it, but it sticks about as well as E6000 does and is every bit as removable (all with no stench). So, for what its worth there’s another option for those that aren’t fond of E6000.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

So I used a super glue to try and attach the lenses to my TK armor. The problem is I was a little careless and one of the lenses not only didn't attach well, but it also became smudged with finger prints/super glue. There was also some dripping done on the helmet itself. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can clean this up? I've heard Novus works well but I also keep reading that this is mostly good for scratches. Will Novus also help remove the glue itself?

 

post-22788-0-08670000-1428843171_thumb.jpg

 

post-22788-0-16126100-1428843180_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

 Im pretty sure there is no solvent that can clean up superglue properly. You will have to sand the glue off your helmet. 

As for your lenses...I think you might have to replace them cos sanding them won't do it any good. 

 

Edited by HansDC
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Yeah, sand it down. I tried zap a gap for the first and last time today. The only way that it worked for me was a high grit sandpaper

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

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  • 3 months later...

Some garrison members of mine were talking about E6000 vs. ABS cement during a recent armor party.  Some were saying that E6000 doesn't hold up under high heat (i.e. hot summer days while trooping) and that they have heard of pieces coming apart while trooping.  Anyone have any experience either for or against this statement?  

 

Now that I'm starting my build, I really want to see what glue I should go with.

Edited by LoveMonkey
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Eclectic Products claims the temperature ceiling for E-6000 is 150 F.  Are you sure they weren't talking about hot glue guns? (:

 

Source: http://eclecticproducts.com/downloads/tds-e6000-industrial-english-clear.pdf, page 2

 

I wonder if these are the same people saying E-6000 reacts with metal in snaps and warps plastic.   :rolleyes:

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