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About Hermanator

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  • 501st Unit
  1. The dish detergent and washing helped very little. I gave up and started sanding the residue off... then the shirt ripped! Doh! I can't recommend UA if you need to remove the label 100%. I ordered some east bay just now, since the logos are not in visible areas. I will keep my UA as spare I guess. Thanks!
  2. By the way, the paint stripping acetone removed it faster for me than nail polish remover. I will try what you suggested. Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk
  3. I used acetone, and scrubbing removed the label but left some light color residue that's not coming out lol. It is cracking and peeling some though, so I think it will eventually get worked off. Goo gone didn't do anything on the UA labels. Under armor must use some kind of spray paint logo or something, cuz it was a pain to get off! Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk
  4. I used a sharpie but it still bugs me :-) I will try goo gone from the backside Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk
  5. I have an under armor undersuit with what seems to be ironed on patch logos. Has anyone removed these successfully? I'm thinking of trying an iron or heat gun with a pair of needle nose pliers or a scraping tool. Thanks.
  6. Daetrin, how are the rubber gasket pieces connecting the armor? It looks like it would seal in body heat and restrict movement worse than the original.
  7. I'm glad someone else is speaking about and recognizing this. I'm glad a company Is offering competitive options, but I am a little concerned with how this will effect the propsellers longterm. I think it will be ok for 501st members to keep selling pieces at a low profit or in low quantities, but I wouldn't expect individuals to try to make a living off of it. Though these individuals were at risk before Anavos anyhow. My bigger concern is that propmakers will lose motivation to design their own sculpts, because its too difficult to sell and pay for itself. Resulting in a true monopoly, where prices rise astronomically.
  8. MSA hardhat, which has a liner in it. Actually installing in a TI helmet, but process is fairly similar to installing in TK
  9. I've seen some tutorials of fitting a hardhat (and/or hardhat suspension) in helmets, but no one covers the adjusting of suspension liner so that your brow is level with the brow of the trooper helmet. Is everyone using the original dropped down suspension adjuster? Is the adjuster causing the helmet to sit askew on your head? In my test fitting, its difficult to fit my head in the suspension when installed in the bucket, mostly because the adjuster drops down and into the way. I'm thinking of replacing the horizontal strap and adjuster with a beltstrap and chicago screws, maintaining the suspension portion. Im wondering if it wouldnt work better, since there'd be no adjuster in the way. Anyone else have advice?
  10. Don't use loctite on abs, I learned that the hard way.. Brake fluid and toothbrush (or 2000 grit sandpaper) is fantastic at removing commercially applied paints.. works ok on some plastic, but not sure how it is on abs. Testors Enamel thinner is ok for abs and gets enamel oil paints up quick
  11. Thank you gazmosis Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk
  12. Does anyone have recommendations on where to buy a black O2 thermal detonator canister? I don't want to paint a regular one, and I'm not making a shadow trooper, so I hate to have to register on spec ops forums. Thank you.
  13. Wow i learned a lot about latex moulds from thus, thank you Karin!! Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk
  14. I have to agree with Karin on this point, until some good original photos are released. They're both very good handguards. If you want a slimmer guard with more linear shapes, go RS. If you want a thicker one with more variation in it, Go with Karins. I think more time and thought was placed into the moulding of Karins, judging by the detail.. but perhaps RS had access to an original.. And the original nay have been more plain. I don't know for sure Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk
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