Hermanator

The dish detergent and washing helped very little. I gave up and started sanding the residue off... then the shirt ripped! Doh! I can't recommend UA if you need to remove the label 100%. I ordered some east bay just now, since the logos are not in visible areas. I will keep my UA as spare I guess. Thanks!

By the way, the paint stripping acetone removed it faster for me than nail polish remover. I will try what you suggested. Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk

I used acetone, and scrubbing removed the label but left some light color residue that's not coming out lol. It is cracking and peeling some though, so I think it will eventually get worked off. Goo gone didn't do anything on the UA labels. Under armor must use some kind of spray paint logo or something, cuz it was a pain to get off! Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk

That's amazing!! Thank you for sharing this trick!!

I used a sharpie but it still bugs me :-) I will try goo gone from the backside Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk

I have an under armor undersuit with what seems to be ironed on patch logos. Has anyone removed these successfully? I'm thinking of trying an iron or heat gun with a pair of needle nose pliers or a scraping tool. Thanks.

Daetrin, how are the rubber gasket pieces connecting the armor? It looks like it would seal in body heat and restrict movement worse than the original.

I'm glad someone else is speaking about and recognizing this. I'm glad a company Is offering competitive options, but I am a little concerned with how this will effect the propsellers longterm. I think it will be ok for 501st members to keep selling pieces at a low profit or in low quantities, but I wouldn't expect individuals to try to make a living off of it. Though these individuals were at risk before Anavos anyhow. My bigger concern is that propmakers will lose motivation to design their own sculpts, because its too difficult to sell and pay for itself. Resulting in a true monopoly, where prices rise astronomically.

MSA hardhat, which has a liner in it. Actually installing in a TI helmet, but process is fairly similar to installing in TK

I've seen some tutorials of fitting a hardhat (and/or hardhat suspension) in helmets, but no one covers the adjusting of suspension liner so that your brow is level with the brow of the trooper helmet. Is everyone using the original dropped down suspension adjuster? Is the adjuster causing the helmet to sit askew on your head? In my test fitting, its difficult to fit my head in the suspension when installed in the bucket, mostly because the adjuster drops down and into the way. I'm thinking of replacing the horizontal strap and adjuster with a beltstrap and chicago screws, maintaining the suspension portion. Im wondering if it wouldnt work better, since there'd be no adjuster in the way. Anyone else have advice?

Don't use loctite on abs, I learned that the hard way.. Brake fluid and toothbrush (or 2000 grit sandpaper) is fantastic at removing commercially applied paints.. works ok on some plastic, but not sure how it is on abs. Testors Enamel thinner is ok for abs and gets enamel oil paints up quick

Thank you gazmosis Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk

Does anyone have recommendations on where to buy a black O2 thermal detonator canister? I don't want to paint a regular one, and I'm not making a shadow trooper, so I hate to have to register on spec ops forums. Thank you.

Wow i learned a lot about latex moulds from thus, thank you Karin!! Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

I have to agree with Karin on this point, until some good original photos are released. They're both very good handguards. If you want a slimmer guard with more linear shapes, go RS. If you want a thicker one with more variation in it, Go with Karins. I think more time and thought was placed into the moulding of Karins, judging by the detail.. but perhaps RS had access to an original.. And the original nay have been more plain. I don't know for sure Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

Sorry for the short description. I was on my phone, and it was tedious enough switching between apps to post the IMG links. I'm updating the first post with a bit more description now.

I had a chance to compare RS handguards, Karins white rubber, and Karins latex handguards. The RS ones are attached to gloves. The white rubber ones are slightly whiter and glossier. Both latex ones have a matte paint. Flash on with RS drop boxes for color comparison. From Left to Right: Karin's Latex, White Rubber, and RS handguards:

I am going for the original strapping system overall. Gluing the elastic to the plastic is the only area I was questioning, in case it ever needed replacing. Though I imagine I could always peel up the elastic with a utility knife, if it ever did wear out. I like the original strapping system because it places minimum spacing between the armor plates & your body. I had made another type of armor kit with snaps, and it left a noticeable gap all over. There's nothing wrong with it; it's just a trade-off: close-fitting v.s. ease of connecting the pieces. I got reading about 'elastic dry rot', and I found that it seems to be an issue in cheaper elastics. Online, I found that the complaints originated from cheap elastic in diapers, underwear, elastic that is washed/dried a LOT, and elastic stored outdoors for YEARS (10 years+). Some elastics are made of latex, which is more susceptible to dry rot than other rubbers/stretch materials, especially in thin and poorly stored materials. Thanks, Paul, for the reassurance on using the Stelmax for trooping. I talked to a few others who have used it for years of trooping without any issues with the elastic. I think I'll go the glue route this time around. I did a quick search for "PVC resin adhesive" and couldn't find anything in the USA other than some DAP Wood cement, which is a large bucket of plastic resin powder. I don't want to take any chances, so I'll send you a PM.

Those are good. I have the 1/8" .5" diameter n35 ones, and they're very strong. Those 1/16" should be strong enough, and the pack is large enough you could stack two to make it stronger Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

Wow I had no idea elastic could dry rot! Very interesting; thank you for the tips

Talking about the white glue holding the elastic to the armor in the original armor.. E6 looks different, but thank you. The elastic really stretches out that quickly on the thighs!? I figured it would last nearly forever unless overstretched too many times Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

Sskunky recommended using the Stelmax 1985 Adhesive (white) as an accurate glue for joining fabric to the armor, but I can't find it sold within the USA online. It looks like some sort of white PVC paste. Has anyone found a similar product here in the US? Similar consistency, look, and chemical properties? While on the topic, can anyone comment on the trooping differences between snaps & adhesive inside armor? It seems like the adhesive method would keep the armor closer fitting to your body, which is the main reason I'm wanting to go that route. The snaps are clearly a more modular system, but I'm not sure how often elastic will need replacing anyway. Thank you!

Good advice sskunky, especially with the needle syringe! I'm going to be using a glass syringe with a large diameter bore (5mm opening) to apply ABS cement, since the acetone would eat through a plastic syringe. I normally use popsicle sticks to apply glue, but dripping it is risky with the ABS & acetone mix.

I decided to test the Three most popular ABS adhesives on some scrap 1.5mm Abs. I sanded the pieces, placed each adhesive between two pieces, let cure for 48 hours under clamp pressure, and performed a stress test on each. Plastic welder (two part epoxy for ABS): -------- Did not budge when pressed/pulled each direction, but the epoxy IMMEDIATELY cracked and began separating when i mildly bent the abs by hand. It detached quickly, cleanly, and completely when flexed by hand. Reminds me of CA glue.. But longer cure time and messier. E6000 white: ----- E6000 would not budge when pressed in all directions, and it had good elasticity when flexed. When flexing hard by hand, a very small gap was visible between the plastics, where the glue stretched. Gap pulled itself closed when pressure was released. When flexed with pliers, a larger gap was present and the gap only partially stretched back. When bent backwards with pliers, E6000 separated. Pieces were bent out of whack, but E6000 separated cleanly, allowing easy removal. ABS Cement (Oatey black, clear also available): ------ Plastics welded together, as if one piece. Glue took on the properties of the abs plastic.. Allowing some flex, but cracking under extreme flex with pliers like abs plastic does. This was a LOT harder to separate using pliers, and it ripped the top layer of ABS from one piece. VERY strong bond but impossible to remove without taking plastic with it.. Your armor will likely crack before this join will. Conclusion: E6000 for removable, very strong, a good flexible bond. ABS cement for permanent, very strong, very flexible bond. Plastic welder for rigid bonds that are not flexed.

Well, it turns out the insole can be pulled out with relative ease. It is glued in with a thin, weak adhesive like a spray adhesive. Just tug on the inside arch a little and pull more. The sole comes up east without ripping. Turns out the removable insole is just a thin thin layer of foam rubber, which is on top of a very dense nonremovable rubber. I'm sure it could be removed too but i believe it's a thick, important part of the shoe. See below for pics of shoe with insole removed. ---------- Here is a pic of the insole removed. -------- I replaced it with an arch supporting, heel stabilizing Surefeet insole.. Which is thicker and makes the boot fit me great, like a tailored shoe. I also wear goodhew Montrose wool socks, which are great for wicking sweat, giving done ventilation on top, and padding on the heel. I strongly recommend trying different insoles and socks too get that perfect, all day comfort. Great boots made better Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk