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Everything posted by 87ninefiveone

  1. The v shaped cuts in the lower left corner are for better mobility. All versions are acceptable from what I've read.
  2. I don't think its the wait that people have a problem with so much as the lack of communication. I can even understand not emailing back to every inquiry they get, but they should at least be up front at the time of ordering by having a note or warning message that it may take 4-6 weeks for delivery. When you buy something online these days you expect relatively quick shipment unless you're told otherwise up front. So, when no warning is given and it takes 4-6 weeks with no response to email inquiries people understandably get a bit edgy since they're on the edge of not being able to recoup the money for non shipment of goods.
  3. If you want EIB or centurion then you blaster has to meet the minimum requirements of that level. An over spec blaster is fine for any level though.
  4. One more item, it looks like you helmet is riding really high, might want to remove some padding or reposition it to bring it down some.
  5. WalMart has dritz snaps at something like $5 per 7 snaps and each package includes a basic tool. I almost wonder if that link above is a mistake because its crazy cheap.
  6. Target has champion branded stuff too. Top and bottom ran me about $20/ea. Might be hard to find long sleeves in the store this time of year though.
  7. One more thing, if you're looking for threads by a given user then tapatalk is quite good. Click on the user to see their profile and you get a list of all threads they've started and replied to.
  8. I ordered the bass amsterdams as well and had the same issue. I'd advise against these
  9. I tore apart the butt/kidney and removes the snap plates from the ab and kidney last night. I'll try and get things reassembled in the next day or two and post some more photos. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. I think it's due to the belt riding low on the kidney. Because my belt tends to sit on the bottom of the kidney it digs into the space between the butt/kidney and acts as a pivot point which pulls the top of the kidney away from my body a bit. I've tried large gaps and small gaps between the two plates. Large gaps cause the current issue plus the butt plate bulges out a bit while small tends to limit the issue more at the expense of a larger back/kidney gap while leaving the issue on the side. I'm really not sure what to do about this one.
  11. The onsite search seems to work better when a date range is plugged in, but as mentioned it's often easier to just use google.
  12. ATA would be a stretch for you. I'm 6'2" and about 200 and my T/MC kit which is similar to ATA is beyond its limits for what looks proper. If you go ATA expect gaps at the knees, elbows, shoulder/bicep, back/kidney, etc... You'll also likely need shims depending on your waist size. Check my thread in the ANH section for an idea what you might be up against.
  13. Tried that, the belt rides low the and causes the kidney to angle out even worse. Not sure how to solve that one.
  14. If it makes you feel better I've seen those threads and they're the reason I got rid of a connection between the bicep and shoulder that kept them nicely tucked away (and severely limited mobility).
  15. Bringing this thread back from the dead. I originally applied back in October of last year and got denied due to a number of issues. Well, some non-Star Wars-y stuff happened, Halloween came and went, and I just never got around to fixing the issues and reapplying until now. So, here's what was done. 1. Shoulder rework. I got rid of the should/bicep connection except for the bicep strap, this really did wonders to increase mobility and bring the shoulders in a bit which eliminated some of the undersuit showing through in that area. 2. Helmet paint job tweaked. The rear traps were cleaned up, but I've also gone through all traps/tears and narrowed the black outline which was too thick after examining reference materials. 3. Boot/shins. Added larger velcro tabs to the front only. The previous front and rear arrangement ended up fighting with each other causing the boots to pop out from under the shins. New arrangement solves that issue while also allowing more free ankle rotation. 4. Kidney/Ab connection. This connection has been reworked with fixed webbing on one side and snaps/elastic on the other. This solves the ab/kidney crazy angle issue for the most part. That said, as much as I've tried to address this the kidney still doesn't want to cooperate 100% which appears to be a function of my body shape and the belt position (being tall doesn't help this either since the kidney sits higher than its meant to on me in order to achieve coverage which makes it angle away from my body towards the top). Comparing left side shots from the first submission and this one I think you'll agree that there is a definite improvement even if it's not perfect. Not sure how to address the back/kidney gap. I've already got the back plate as low as it can go without a gap at the shoulder bridge and the ab/kidney is already riding higher than is comfortable. The only possible adjustment is raising the kidney, but what's more important, a minimized gap between the back and kidney or aligning the top of the kidney and ab so that they look continuous? Comments and suggestions welcome.
  16. Hi Joe, I think you've got a good start so far. I wouldn't worry about the depth of the teeth so much, between having a softer pull and thick ABS like the T/MC has it would be hard to retain a lot of the depth and still get the right shape anyways. Here's what I would do to clean it up for approval. 1. ANH Stunt helmets must have eight total teeth cut out. Some movie used helmets did have three per side, and some had five per side, but the current CRL states four per side for approval. http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt 2. You're teeth need squaring up a bit. The holes should be rectangular, not ovoid in shape. If you're in the US you can pick up a set of needle files from someplace like harbor freight for about $5-8. Use the needle files to come in from the front of the mask rather than the back and file the corners with the square shaped file until you've got a more rectangular shape. Here's the set I got http://www.harborfreight.com/needle-file-set-10-pc-69876.html 3. In order to clean up the paint job skip the masking and go free hand. I can't recall seeing a single thread where someone used masking tape and actually had it turn out decently without a lot of clean up work. Instead, go to a hobby store and pick up a good detailing brush. A proper brush in this case with be long and skinny and have bristles which are at least 1/2" in length which come to a fine point. It sounds counter intuitive but the longer bristles actually give you more control and lead to a smoother line. Something like this http://www.hobbylinc.com/tamiya-high-finish-pointed-paint-brush-ultra-fine-synthetic-87048. This brush will also come in handy when painting the vocoder and trying to get straight lines and nice curves. 4. If you're going for stunt don't worry about the right eye bulge. This is normal and perfectly acceptable (and probably not a good area to test out your new iron on). Good luck and keep posting questions. There's a ton of people here to help.
  17. I'm not sure if I should be replying to a pinned post like this or not, but what's the verdict on the wires being included from FISD staff? The CRL doesn't cover it and it appears as though movie blasters may or may not have had them included. So, would including them which seems unpopular based on EIB and Centurion applications be okay or not? Is it just left up to individual GMLs? I like the look and frankly I've already installed them on my build, but I'd rather make changes before applying for basic rather than get turned down and have to fix it before reapplying.
  18. Your nail polish remover is probably ethyl or butyl acetate. As noted most home improvement stores sell acetone in the paint section as a thinner. To help with dissolving the abs you can place your closed container of acetone/abs in warm water and agitate it. Don't open it until it cools off though the fumes will be horrendous.
  19. FWIW my ATA helmet is a much softer pull than the T/MC. There's very little definition of the traps and mid helmet ridge on the back part of the helmet. The ATA is also noticeably yellow-ish compared to T/MC stuff. Faceplate pull and the build kit Terrell gives is top notch though. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  20. If you do what aaron suggested make sure you add some fender washers to spread out the load so your screws don't get pulled through the plastic.
  21. On the frown, it looks like you got a slightly softer pull than I did. Although not well defined, I was able to make out the fourth area on each side from the inside and outside. On yours the last one on the mask's right isn't even really there. Maybe you really wanted to make a Hero or ESB helmet? If I were you I would start cutting the teeth out from the front side and skip the dremel sanding method from the rear. This is actually how I did my helmet and it works fine. I started with some small pilot holes and used an exacto to cut out the majority of the material and then moved on to filing and filling and filling some more for the final work. Unless I'm wrong the mic tips shouldn't be flush. My ATA helmet tips stick out about 3/8-1/2" from the recessed area, The only part they sit flush with is the drooping lobes to the left and right of the vocoder when viewed from the top down. Dry fitting the T/MC ones shows the same behavior. Also note that the tips won't sit nicely in the recessed area (forget about symmetry, it ain't going to happen).
  22. Also, feel free to shoot me any questions you have with the T/MC bucket or kit. I finished mine for Haloween last year and am still tweaking before I apply in the next few weeks. Tray is also super helpful so don't hesitate to ask questions.
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