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ObiHahn

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by ObiHahn

  1. Since this was posted in the ANH section, I thought the question was what the accurate way for ANH was...? ESB were glued with some black stuff, with the lens sheet cut shorter (it doesn't reach over the screws). I have not yet seen photos of lenses simply taped in for any movie, where can I find such reference pics? Bubble lenses like ANH hero and ROTJ were glued, yeah.
  2. Here's a pic of my replica where you can see how it was done: -------------- I used the upper screw that holds the ear to the helmet, and on that I fixed the sheet of lens material as well as the chinstrap. Both are held in place with a nut. I hope you can make that out okay in my pic. On www.starwarshelmets.com you'll find some pics of original helmet interiors.
  3. Signed. Even if no one else but you looks inside your armor (which isn't true, lots of people like to compare their strapping system before and after trooping), it is the way to go. There was a reason the costume department strapped the suit like they did. Glued plates with snaps on them are much more likely to get loose than brackets screwed directly to the pieces.
  4. Here's a better comparison: ----------
  5. Second thought...slap some TK-4510 decals on that baby and you're good to go! Puts new meaning to the good old "I can't see a thing in this helmet!"
  6. If it were a cake, I'd love it. Too bad it's not edible...
  7. Ah, I see! I never thought/knew about knuckle indentations on these. Learn something new every day!
  8. Horrible. Just horrible. And I don't get the "ADIDAS" part...
  9. Care to shed some more light on this? I don't see an obvious connection between latex and a Dremel.
  10. Looks like it did, even earlier.
  11. Your Hengstler is a little off, what part did you use for that? Or is that some counter variant that you used? It's not an "Eagle" Hengstler, that much I can tell. Are these made from metal?
  12. Go for slightly weathered, and go for a kinda "beat up" helmet with some HDPE showing. That's the best, meanest look for ANH/ESB IMHO!
  13. Just have to add one thought: I'm so glad that the unaltered one in Dan's pics is my blaster. Can't wait to lay my hands on it, I have a real Hengstler and correct T-track standing by. This is going to be my new favourite toy.
  14. Whoa, quite stunning. At last, some weathering that even shows up in photos! I was a little hesitant with my weathering, after seeing yours, maybe I'll go back and abuse my HDPE style bucket some more...
  15. Do you also make them in dark green?
  16. Exactly the way I did it. It can be done with enough courage! Even the dreaded tube stripes...
  17. Is that a serious question? With not one single doubt, the second pic is what a better legion should look like. Seriously. Now go add paint chipping to your helmet, Daetrin!
  18. Exactly. Every decent kit should come with three rivet covers for your belt. Small plastic squares with a circle on top.
  19. Stay away from velcro, not only for the belt (the only place for velcro on a stormtrooper is for closing the belt, under the detonator). I'd recommend the prop-accurate way of using snaps and rivets: Rivet the plastic front to the fabric belt, then attach the fabric belt to the armor via 2 snaps.
  20. No problem, you're welcome! I know your pain of a tight budget... I'd go for the hero decals from TK-4510, if you ask me. The outlines are only fat on the decal sheet, they will be much thinner once you peel the individual decals from that. Plus, they have correct "wonky" lines instead of straight like the ones on your helmet now. 3-bump ears will surely improve the hero look! And the shoulders should really be a quick'n'easy fix, I agree. The new mic tips are way better, but the mesh is too fine. But that really is nitpicking. (But I love nitpicking when it comes to TKs!)
  21. I wasn't pointing out EIB rules/requirements, I was just pointing out how a proper ANH hero should look. The decals have waaay too much black outlining going on and look more like ESB decals. ANH should always have the handpainted look (they were not decals back in 1977). That's why I handpaint mine. But you can get good decals emulating that hand painted, slightly irregular look. I'd also suggest bringing the shoulders closer to the chest, they stick outwards in your pics. Oh, and I believe a set of 3-bump hero ears can be had quite easily on these boards. Why not go all the way instead of stopping at "must have"? Use the props and screencaps as reference, not the minimum requirements - but maybe that's just my way of thinking.
  22. Decals on the helmet are quite off, and you have stunt ears on that "hero" helmet. Also, I'd paint the rivets white, on the torso side.
  23. The funniest thing: if you open that box, there's a big white hunk of silliness in there! Some even say it resembles a stormtrooper helmet. JK.
  24. Yeah...right. He has done so much research with his reference shots that he can't even paint his helmet right. Those tube stripes are an "interpretation", it seems. And let's not talk about the mic tips.
  25. Nice idea. Here's my humble collection of helmets, I once owned the MR CE but have since sold that bucket. ------- From left to right: ANH stunt "Frankenlid" (made from DA faceplate/NGB cap'n'back/CAP-West ears), PT ANH hero, PT ESB, CFO ROTJ and my PT ANH stunt trooping bucket (waiting for mic tips, the ones from that went to the newest helmet on the left).
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