ABS80

You could have purchased a better and more accurate set for half the price, you basically purchased a recast made off GF and TE parts. Research is the key these days.

Don't worry about the decals which are vinyl and not affected by water at all. Mark (AP)

NO plastic will just melt away and your costume will end looking like a Rubies

remember just score using a ruler pressing hard enough, no need to go deep and bend plastic it will break clean with no rough edges, I did tons this way.

One thing to concider is that the original suits were very wonky made from much thinner plastic therefore easier to align and glue parts together because the thinner plastic had much less resistance. Mark (AP)

ears are completely different, grey ear detail has three bumps with one screw for hero and four bumps with two screws for stunt, hero has bubble grey lens and stunt has flat green lens.

Great job!!!!!

hey Walt no harm done it makes sense both are very similar since they originate from same source which was the TE I had no idea you had the Gino molds so all is good Mark

I see, thanks for clearing that up. Mark

I have no idea who Walt is but that explains since AP comes from same source

This is a AP recast face plate, all suction holes and irregular surface inside eye sockets uncut material match AP helmet 100% Mark (AP)

Those trooper helmet look like Donald Duck, I guess its the Disney touch LOL!!!

Not sure this will resolve more air flow, you have enough from frown holes and the bottom opening of helmet, IMHO its just a waste of time. Mark

Beautiful build congratulations!!!! The main reason the shoulder bells show that much gap is because the bicep parts are too big, if you look at the movie trooper the bicep parts are very snug almost de same diameter of the forearms therefore the shoulder bells completely cover the biceps reducing the gaps, not everybody have small arms like the actors in the movie and if you have broad shoulders it doesn't help, I purposely leave the extra ridges on the biceps to fit the vast majority of people but ideally would be to completely trim off the ridges on all bicep parts and use the joining strip. Mark (AP)

Very nice! The ammo knee and sniper knee is not AP, my ammo knee you don't see all the suction holes, for the shoulder straps trim off the last big tab for accuracy, the movie original didn't have the big tab on the rear. Mark (AP)

huuum if you ask me it doesn't look as neat painted black, but that's my opinion, the simpler the better, some people just over do it. Mark

looks like a recast of a 3d printed TE made many years ago, its not accurate in terms of how it was made, its one solid piece made either by rotocast resin or fiberglass, the movie helmets were vacuumformed made from 4 separate parts, a face plate, top/cap and 2x ear pieces, also helmet should have real rubber brow and neck trim, this one is casted on helmet, not sure if it's 501st approved, TBH your better off with a more accurate vacuumformed helmet, way less work, no need to paint or add the missing details. Mark (AP)

So cool!!!! would love to know if any of the troopers are members here and which armor they are wearing Mark

I see you didn't use the 2 small screws to connect face plate to cap, this helps keep the face plate better aligned and make assembly easier, if you drilled out all the marked holes the brow trim should fit perfect with a little white showing. Also your brow doesn't sit up back enough and cover the decal because you probably need to trim a bit more off you cap, if you trim or drill exactly were marked everything should fit perfect.

If armor originates from a real movie suit then they are all very similar in size including the AP unless they been modified to fit larger people, actually someone who has FX armor which is bigger than AP stated that the AP legs fit better on his big legs compared to the FX. Mark

try Tamiya model paint spray cans its the closest match to a airbrush flow, the paint comes out very very thin made for small scale objects, regular krylon ect paints is meant for larger areas, way too much paint comes out of it and will bleed threw fines maskings Mark

ABS is by far better and the reason it cost twice as much as PVC, has more rubber content therefore more flexible, less prone to cracks and is high impact resitant, whoever says PVC is better they don't know squats!!!! even though PVC might seem more flexible in reality it cant handle the same back and forth flex ABS can, theres a reason they use ABS plastic in the car industrie and other heavy duty components like shower cabinets ect... Mark (AP)

You can get super high gloss ABS aswell, plastic manufactures can custom make plastic in whatever level of sheen and color hue you prefer, well mine does anyways. To answer your question go ABS way more durable but not sure why they use dull finish, the original suit were gloss abs Mark (AP)

On all my armor parts I use the scoring/snap method, much faster, edges come out nice and perfect. For the teeth the easiest and fastest method is using a dremel and sand down the bumps from inside helmet until perforated then square off the teeth using exacto, for the eyes I use a dremel with cutting disc again from the inside, then clean edges using exacto and sanding paper. Mark (AP)

looks great!!