MaskedVengeance

Yeah, not sitting will be different for sure! Haha. Somebody needs to come up with a silicone, or other flexible material, posterior piece, similar to Joseph’s shiny hand guards. Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Thanks for this feedback, friends! That's an excellent idea about leaving a little extra on the cap front sides under the ears, particularly at the bottom near the neck, just to be safe. I will definitely employ that technique! A question I forgot to ask in my previous post is regarding WHEN to spray the interior of the helmet. I see most builders do it AFTER cutting out the eyes and teeth, but Ales (ATA helmet) did it at the VERY BEGINNING. I can foresee the paint hiding potential cut lines if sprayed before trimming, but if I can overcome that, would there be issues with the sanding process, or some paint peeking out when viewing the teeth from the front? I see that some troopers go back and manually touch up (brush) the areas around the eyes and teeth after removing the masking tape. Because my paint is truck bed coating, it should remain unaffected by moisture, so I wouldn't think sanding cleanup would be an issue. Am I missing something?

Awesome kit and great photos! That square one of you two walking away with the leaves around needs to be displayed on a wall somewhere. Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

OP (MV) Post #35: Helmet Work Begins While I continue to work through my thermal detonator dilemma (paint color and clip shape) I thought I would provide an update on the basic helmet preparations I've slowly been working on. First, below are the primary resources I've been following for all work bucket-related, copied and pasted from my All-In-One Reference Thread, followed by the ANH-Stunt CRL as of October 29, 2020. Helmet Assembly ATA ABS Helmet Assembly by pandatrooper (Print PDF) ATA Stunt Helmet Assembly by Ales (Print PDF) ATA Helmet Build by maxsteele ANH TE2 Helmet Build by TK-4510 Helmet Ear Tutorial by gazmosis (Print PDF) Draw No Gap Ear Line by bpoodoo (Print PDF) Choose Your Brow Height by CableGuy (Print PDF) Helmet Alignment by CableGuy (Print PDF) Template Painting 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Tube Stripes by CableGuy (Print PDF) Vocoder Paint Examples by CableGuy (Print PDF) Helmet Painting Tips by CableGuy Replicate the Screen-Used Look by CableGuy | For those of you viewing on Tapatalk, I will add the text of the CRL in type format on the PDF of this thread, since the image will be too small to read | In this previous post I documented (lots of photos) what the raw uncut parts of the helmet looked like upon unboxing, and this update marks my first actual work on the helmet pieces. Based on guidance from pandatrooper's ATA helmet build, I began by using a flexible plastic strip (cut from the bottom structural support piece of an eco-fabric grocery bag) to mark off the initial trim line at the top of the faceplate. It was a little tricky getting a level line with the plastic guide because the faceplate is angled, but this wasn't really important since the edge will be inside the cap brow and trim. I did leave myself a little more material than Terry did, just to be safe. Note that some of the photos below do not have optimal lighting since my wife has been using my "studio" lights for online English teaching desk setup. I also marked the following initial cut lines for the cap sides and neck opening. I'd much rather under-trim rather than over-trim, so these guides are pretty conservative. Thoughts on them, shown below? My mantra for cutting plastic on this first build is as follows: Post cut-line photos seeking feedback prior to cutting. Measure twice (or thrice), cut once, then repeat as necessary (see #3). Always under-trim, and retrim, rather than trim too much. While this would seem obvious, I never want to make any assumptions when cutting expensive plastic, so I marked the eye cutouts following ATA's molded guides. Is there any reason to believe I should start further towards the middle of the eye and eventually work my way to those lines based on what it looks like from the outside front? I plan to use a cutting wheel on my dremel and will, of course, cut inside the lines and then sand/file to the lines, but I'm wondering if those lines are an appropriate end-target. And finally, in terms of actual progress, I freehanded what I thought might be an appropriate outline for the vocoder. I know that the 2nd and 6th ridges are supposed to be pretty close in height to the center one on Stunt helmets, and much shorter on Hero helmets, so I'm guessing they are too short for my stunt, correct? I figure I would intentionally draw them on the shorter end and then increase their height as deemed necessary. As mentioned in my previous post, I will be painting this using Testors semi-gloss black, and will simply paint over the pencil markings. Additionally, touching on in my previous post, I observed that the hovi mix tips "wells" (I'm blanking, if there's a proper name) have extremely thin ABS plastic due to the forming process, so I want to reinforce them. In one of the builds I've seen that area was backed with some sort of glue or resin-soaked canvas, and I also considered melting an ABS strip and drooping one onto each of the backs, but ultimately I've decided to try Ales' strategy of using milliput. Do any of you have any thoughts on that, or other recommendations? My plan is to also a rubber and then metal washer before threading on the screw nut. The photo below shows the thinness of the plastic with a light shining on the other side. Finally, in my last post I included photos of the Rust-Oleum Black Truck Bed Coating spray that I intend to use on the inside of my helmet. However, upon closer inspection (see photo below), I see that it contains acetone. Should I be concerned about this, and the potential reaction to the ABS? Do all spray paints have some amount of this in them? Thoughts, @TheRascalKing? Review of my Questions: Do my cap side cutout lines (which will be hidden beneath the ears) appear ok? Are the guidelines for rough trimming the neck opening too narrow? I would prefer to under-trim and have to do more later rather than over-trim. Am I on track with my eye hole initial trim lines, which follow ATA's molded guides? Does my vocoder outline appear ok? I know that Stunt helmets generally had taller (2nd and 6th) bars than Hero ones, and I've drawn mine short to serve as a starting point to build upwards from. Will milliput be a good material to reinforce the hovi mix tips attachment points? In addition to washers, what other solutions are recommended? The black tuck bed coating spray I have contains acetone―is this normal of sprays, and should I be concerned? Thanks in advance for your helpful insight and continued support! You all are the best! p.s. the photo below shows masks made by a coworker's wife and gifted to me, since we're wearing them full-time at work. MV Printable/downloadable PDF of my entire build thread to this point contained in [THIS SHARED FOLDER]. The PDF will be updated within a few hours of my own new posts and will note sequential version numbers and revision dates.

Yeah definitely listen to Glen on this, especially since you’re already at 7.5” length. Good to go. Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Definitely check out Tony’s (Ukswrath) Anovos build for guidance; it’s a LEGENDARY thread. I don’t have a direct link to it right now, but I’ve included it on my All-In-One resources thread which is linked in my signature. He has a section on adjusting the Anovos thermal detonator. Depending on the overall width of your current detonator, you may try shortening it to get more overlap between the clips and the control panel. Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Just remember, too, that the return edges (where the plastic bends to give the appearance of thickness) provide structure and will therefore limit the possible bending. If pieces with return edges are bent TOO far in one direction, the plastic can buckle, and too far in the other direction can result in cracking (as shown in one of Glen’s screen-used photos). Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

OP (MV) Post #34: Kittell Belt & Supplies Not Previously Documented Not any actual progress here, but I just wanted to further document several build supplies which I had not previously photographed and posted in the past several months. I've probably said this a million times, but my hope is that this thread can be a resource to future builders. Thus I've tried to thoroughly document every aspect of the build, whether it be images of raw armor, visuals of every cut into the shiny plastic, or purchase links to the tools I use. In that vein, here are some additional acquisition notes: TK canvas belt from Rob Kittell (Imperial Issue). This appears to be of excellent quality, and came highly recommended by many troopers of FISD. As stated on the Imperial Issue webpage, when sizing always take your waist measurement with your ab and kidney armor on, and do not add in any breathing room to your number. Rob already takes that into account. I generally wear a US size 34 pants, and my armor-on measurement was just shy of 41 inches (104cm). Also, Rob's logo and slogan are awesome! Humbrol French Blue #14 enamel paint. As discussed in a previous post, I initially had a hard time sourcing the French Blue enamel, and couldn't even decide if I wanted to use that or the Mediterranean Blue, but I finally broke down and got the FB from Trooperbay on eBay. Testors Semi-Gloss Black enamel paint (Hobby Lobby). For the longest time I was unable to find this in-stock at my local Hobby Lobby or Michael's stores, especially since all the bottles were always mixed up and never in their correct bays, but I eventually got lucky. I had initially planned on painting my vocoder and mix tips with a matte black, to add contrast to all the other shininess, but it turns out that's really actually an ROTJ style. Superfine White Milliput (Hobby Lobby). This may not seem like a standard ABS TK build item, but my plan has been to use it on the inside of the helmet to reinforce the mix tip wells. The ABS is super thin there, due to the extreme stretching in that area during the pulling process, and I didn't want to rely solely on a larger washer. I've also considered using it on the interior of the ears (either that or a piece of ABS) to reinforce where the countersunk screws will be drilled. Purchase tip: Never shop at Hobby Lobby without a minimum 40% off coupon. White adhesive velcro (Walmart). I found this in my office supplies/mounting box and figured I would use the soft (loop) half on the back of the thermal detonator clips to keep them from scuffing up the torso armor behind the belt. Industrial strength is unnecessary; the cheapest option with an adequate adhesive will do. Rust-Oleum Black Truck Bed Coating Spray (Amazon). Chalk this one up to @TheRascalKing, who swears by it. This is intended for the interior of the helmet, and unlike plasti-dip, apparently it can accommodate adhesives for velco padding, fans, etc. It will be a nice way to black-out the interior and avoid the peeling that plasti-dip is also susceptible to. Plus the texture looks awesome (on the builds I've seen). And that's all for now. If any builders want a complete index of my tools, supplies, and parts, I have documented them on my Table of Contents on Page 1 of this thread, and they are even better-presented, with purchase links, at the beginning of my PDF compilation of this thread. MV Printable/downloadable PDF of my entire build thread to this point contained in [THIS SHARED FOLDER]. The PDF will be updated within a few hours of my own new posts and will note sequential version numbers and revision dates.

Congrats on your BBB day! Did you attack the Fedex driver? Haha. As Shawn already mentioned, you will definitely want to trim down those thighs a bit. Bra-hood calf closures can apparently have a tendency to open up, so perhaps some more seasoned Troopers can provide you with insight on how to minimize that. Personally, I try Cricket's magnetic shin closures. Relating to the drop boxes, I think you'll actually find that that "lack" of quality is actually screen accuracy. The belts commonly had fraying, and the drop box elastic was often trimmed around the snap. I believe Cableguy has some photos of his replication of this on his fb page. Below is a screen reference, through from ANH, from the FISD Gallery.

Checklist: DONE Upgrades: IN PROGRESS! You got this, Ken! I'm sure you've already seen it, but in case not, the thread below from Ensi will help you get your shine back to the kidney shim seam. I also have a PDF version of it on my Reference thread.

Thanks for your insight, Andrew and Glen! I must admit, I have been a little uncertain about the paint job. The Testors/Model Master 1923 Gunship Gray (Hobby Lobby) came at the suggestion (HERE) of Tony in his ANOVOS build. I hadn't considered the possibility of it being too dark, and instead thought that it wasn't glossy enough. I've only ever seen that specific paint in a flat finish, but perhaps I'm looking in the wrong places, or I ended my search too quickly after thinking I had the correct one. EDIT: Later in my build I discovered that Model Master 1923 Gunship Gray is too dark for the Thermal Detonator, and more appropriate sprays are Testors 1237 Semi-Gloss Primer or Testors 1238 Gloss Gray. As for the possibility that I am simply experiencing a difference in subject lighting, I thought I would show my TD alongside several other grays together in the same shot. The first image below, taken from an earlier post in my build, shows the Model Master 1923 (FS 36118) Gunship Gray enamel paint can, alongside another gray (Testors flat dark aircraft gray) which I believe I purchased for a blaster undercoat for sanding weathering. In my paint test seen in the subsequent photos, I show how my current detonator appears alongside spare bits of ABS brush-painted with Humbrol gloss #5 and Testors 1138 gloss gray, Trooperbay decals (from back before I decided to use paint and stencils instead), and some spare flexible conduit I had around. I believe the flex conduit is roughly the same color as the standard solid straight pipe. It does still appear that my TD is darker than the decals, doesn't it? I wonder what the difference between my paint and Tony's is, other than possible user error. Interestingly, the TB decals are actually the lightest color of the lot, and don't even match the Humbrol and Testors enamel paints. Note that the Testors paint appears a bit lighter than the Humbrol, which I think is attributable to the coat thickness I applied. So I suppose I must come to the conclusion that my TD is too dark. I wonder how difficult it would be to mask the edges―particularly the curved ones―and repaint with a lighter gray... As for the OCD, Glen, I CAN TOTALLY RELATE. The screw holes not perfectly aligning with the ends of the control panel has been bothersome to me as well. When I first started trimming all the TD components I set out to use the largest of the acceptable measurements so that I could later trim them if necessary. I eventually came to realize that, due to the smaller diameter of the PVC pipe, I probably should have shortened the length of the pipe and panel (and possible end caps) to maintain the overall ratio of the larger 68mm screen-used TDs, but alas I came to that conclusion too late, and the panel was already glued. So since I can't narrow the panel any more, I have two options: Narrow the end caps by sanding 1mm off each one, bringing them down to 19mm each, which. This would enable me to spread the clips that much more, and still maintain the 7.5" (190mm) overall width of the TD. Pull out the end caps 1-2mm on each end, which would then put me that same amount over the 7.5" (190mm) width. Since I'm already using the widest (7.5" or 190mm) TD measurement, I'm not sure if it'd be better to shrink the width of the ends caps, or widen the over-all length of the TD. To me, it would seem that pulling out the caps and widening the TD would seem less obvious, to the naked eye, than narrowing the caps. Of course, depending on how much adjustment would be needed to align the screws with the panel edges, I could utilize both options simultaneously. As for the screen references, the social scientist in me wants to say that there's no such thing as too much data, but in this case your argument makes complete sense. It is definitely better to show and follow a generalized standards rather than confuse people with outliers. I'll admit that I got a little obsessed with my TD research and intention to capture and present nearly every single clearly-visible thermal detonator in ANH. At least now we can see all the instances together, and collectively observe what the common features are. *whisper* But on the other hand, @bishopdonmiguel has done a very fine job of modeling a specific infamous TK...

Haha. Get a cup of coffee, a good book (or FISD on a device), and sit on your porch and wait! We look forward to your unboxing photos!! Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Welcome, Garrett! You've come to the right place for building your own set of shiny white armor! As other troopers have said, checking out the Getting Started section is a wonderful place to begin! There's so much information to comb through that it can be overwhelming sometimes, so just take your time and research research research! Definitely don't let this be a replacement for checking out ALL the resources on FISD (there is much more that I haven't listed), but below is a link to a compilation thread I made which might be helpful to you. Again, welcome to this amazing community! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49412-all-in-one-tk-anh-stunt-index-of-resources-by-maskedvengeance/

Congrats! Excellent work and perseverance through all the challenges, particularly of 2020! You have overcome! Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Spot on with spreading smiles in 2020 (and beyond)! Congrats on your RS commission; I’m sure you’ll be very pleased. We look forward to seeing your photos on BBB day and following you along to basic approval, and perhaps L2 and L3! Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Very nice chroma key implementation! I especially like the addition of the red reflections on your armor. Looking ready for battle! Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

It's hard to tell with some of the shadows on the top two photos in your collage, but the bottom photo indicates that more trimming should occur on all the sides. Here's a photo from the Gallery, as well as the link to the album. Hopefully this is helpful! =)

Great to see your progression all the way to the top with your SDs kit! A fine amount of work you’ve put into it, and it’s paid off! Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Great looking build and fantastic ab and kidney alignment! Just a small note from me before the pros arrive with their excellent feedback—I think you’ll want to hit the rims of your hovi tips with a little white paint. I’m also not sure about the upper corners of your thigh ammo pack that have been rounded more than I’m used to seeing. Great Velcro strategy for keeping your belt in proper alignment with that bottom ab button! Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Congrats on finishing the Trooper duel! Exciting to have that second TK number around the corner! Looking great there with Mando as well! Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Sweet photo, and way to keep the traitors at bay! Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

I’m sorry to hear about your personal loss. This has been a very difficult year, and my family has not been excluded from the trials as well. Thoughts and prayers for you and yours. Things will turn around for the better! Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

OP (MV) Post #32: Thermal Detonator Part 2 In my previous post (Part 1) I began my thermal detonator, and in this post I will continue with painting the tube and installing the control panel and end caps. But first, a little twist to start us off. As I began to look ahead towards altering my universal-sized clips to fit my 2-inch (50.8mm inner diameter) tube I felt the need to study screen-captures of all the TDs in ANH. Essentially I wanted to get a good sense of TD height placement relative to the belt, as well as gauge the angle at which the control panel points. While the FISD Gallery has excellent content, for my purposes the 1,059 screen images captured chronologically by Jeklynhyde in this post provided the easiest access. I sifted through that image bank, along with Gallery albums from @Darth Aloha and @Locitus and all 119 pages (21,248 images in case you're wondering) of 4K ANH caps from starwarsscreencaps (hereafter referred to as SWSC) and saved 129 images to this google drive folder (yeah, I went a bit Han-boring-conversation-anyway heavy) to compile into a RogueTrooper-frown-like thermal detonator collages shown at the top of this post. Though my initial intention had been to capture detonator-belt height alignment, I also included images which documented other details of TDs, such as mounting clips and screw placement. The photos shown at the top of this post are actually downsized versions semi-optimized for viewing at 1,000 x 750px on the FISD web-platform, but if you click on the images they should link to the full 2,000 x 1,500px versions which contain un-scaled captures from the 1,920 x 1,080 (really 1,920 x 817 at the 2.35:1 anamorphic screen ratio) source imagery from @Jeklynhyde. The un-scaled snips from SWSC are from their 3,840 x 1,600 native resolution. Jeklyn was also kind enough to provide me with additional screen grabs upon request, on multiple occasions! Of the 129 images kept, 27 came from SWSC and 18 came from the FISD Gallery; none of the Gallery images were used in my final compilations. I used a transparent background on the images so that they would display cleanly in Tapatalk and in the current and future color schemes of the whitearmor site, and every individual image snippet is ordered chronologically by appearance in the film horizontally across the two master compilation images. The eight images below are quarter slices of the two master comp images, should any of you want to view the full-resolution content in-line/thread. HERE IS A LINK to my google drive folder which contains all eight of the above quadrant photos, as well as the master compilations. Contained in the master folder of copies of the versions of the images with three background colors—transparent, FISD gray, and white. While sifting through the 22,000+ ANH captures I tagged some for future projects, such as compilations of other parts of ANH TKs. The sniper plate, knee ammo belt, shoulder bridges, drop box alignment, and mobility cuts immediately come to mind. I've already developed a magnifying bubble overlay system that I'm going to use, and perhaps the images might be a helpful addition to some of the "Specific Parts" sections of the Gallery. In case anybody is interested, below is a Google drive folder which contains every SWSC capture I retained from the original image bank. These 3,688 images include every instance in which even part of a TK (and TD Sandie) are visible, whether it be part of a helmet peeking out from behind another character, a knee-pack barely above the trash compactor water, or Luke wearing TK-421's belt. Those with an extremely keen eye might notice some sequenced images missing, and that's because 45 images in the SWSC bank were repeat frames (which I excluded), likely due to capture, upload, or database errors. EVERY ANH TK from SWSC (3,688 images) Staring at all those images for hours (days) is now making me want to get a UK/metric-sized TD, but for now I'll have to make due without (anybody have a spare?). Seems I'm getting caught up in the finer details like our good friend @CableGuy. Lest any readers get bogged down in the next three sections (Painting, Re-Squaring, ABS Installation) of this post, I'd like to draw particular attention to the last section at the end, related to modifying my belt clips. I have diagrammed a couple options and would LOVE some feedback. Painting In continuing with Tony's documented paint process, I taped up my tube in order to cover a space the size of the control panel. To perfectly center the panel, I took the total length of my tube (7.25 inches or 184.15mm) and subtracted the width of my control panel (122mm), which left me with roughly 62mm. Since this represented the total remainder width, I divided it by two, and thus my guide marks were made 31mm from each end. Keep in mind that, if you're following my posts as a guide, your measurements will vary based on the figures you cut your tube and panel to. I then used my actual finished panel as a straightedge to guide my ballpoint PEN as I traced the border. I emphasize using a PEN because, even though I know pencil wipes off ABS, I wanted to avoid marking the edges of my control panel. This would have likely happened with pencil lead, but did not occur with my ballpoint pen. Do not worry about getting a perfectly straight line since the actual cut line will be inside of this original rough border. Once I finished the outer border I measured 1/8-inch (per Tony's recommendation) inside of it and drew an inner rectangle, again using my panel as a straightedge. This interior line will serve as my cut line guide for trimming off the excess tape. To guide my Xacto knife I used leftover pieces from my end cap trimming, despite the fact that achieving a straight line is not necessary for this step. I'm a bit of a perfectionist; perhaps @justjoseph63 understands. Haha. The rationale behind cutting the shape of the blue tape down to a size smaller than the actual control panel is to ensure proper spray paint coverage, which will just barely (1/8-inch on all side) overlap with the panel. Not having this overlap could result in a sliver of unpainted pipe showing next to one or two of the edges of the panel. Once I had my control panel tape cut and the excess peeled off I masked off the edges of the tube which would be covered by the end caps. I wanted to leave 1cm of unpainted pipe on each end in case I later decide to glue to caps on, since the glue would best adhere to the sanded pipe rather than a painted surface. I used my handy pencil-in-clamp technique to mark an unnecessarily-straight line, knowing that there would once again be overlap with my painted surface and the end caps. Recall that I tapered the ends (with sandpaper; see photo towards end of that post) of my tube and I wanted to ensure the painted surface extended into the tapered area to combat possible paint-scraping when finally sliding on the end caps. With acceptable weather conditions (51% humidity, 70s f indoor temp) I set up in my garage and sprayed two coats of Model Master Custom Spray Enamel 1923 Gunship Gray FS 36118 with some drying time in between. I might have gone a bit thick, and got some orange peel, but only if you look really closely and with certain light. Nobody at a troop would be able to notice it. I let it dry for several hours then removed the tape on the panel area and ends, and set it aside to further cure overnight. EDIT: Later in my build I discovered that Model Master 1923 Gunship Gray is too dark for the Thermal Detonator, and more appropriate sprays are Testors 1237 Semi-Gloss Primer or Testors 1238 Gloss Gray. Here are some photos of the completed paint job, including photos which shows the amount of overlap that the panel and end caps will have once positioned properly for my 7.5 inch (190.5mm) wide TD. Control Panel Re-Squaring While test fitting my control panel onto the tube I discovered that somehow my panel was no longer perfectly squared, which means my previous sanding guides must have been off. The image below shows the arc length difference between the two ends of the panel, indicated by the two pencil marks a few mm apart at the bottom. The photo depicts the short end of the panel, while the other longer side extended to that outer pencil mark. Thus I proceeded to mark off the sliver on each side which needed to be sanded. To do so I evenly split the length difference I needed to make up so the result would be a very small amount coming off on both ends of the arc. It took several attempts, but I finally managed to lay down the tape in straight lines, checked by looking down the tape line in a fashion similar to taking aim with an E-11 Rebel blaster. The tape would obviously serve as a visual guide while sanding but I decided to add a second layer of tape in hopes that it might create a bit of a barrier to keep me from over-sanding. It's always a good idea to use proper PPE (shown above) when sanding ABS, as even sanding small amounts at a time can add up over the course of a build. Save your lungs (and eyes and fingers) people! I was happy with my final results after measuring the arc lengths again on my spare PVC pipe, so ONWARD! Control Panel & End Cap Installation With the spray paint having had a couple days (excessive) to fully cure I set out to install the control panel and end caps on my tube. However, I first wanted to drill a couple air relief holes into my tube in the same fashion that AJ Hamler did on his build. These holes would theoretically make it easier to install the snug-fit end caps, but since the plan was to install the control panel first, it's unclear if the holes would end up being sealed off anyway. I guess that depends on how tight I get the panel adhered down onto the tube. I marked dots where I wanted to two holes to be drilled, which would be situated beneath the raised areas of the control panel (buttons and round washer style detail). I first drilled pilot holes with a 5/64 bit then graduated up to and ended with a 3/16 bit. It was my first time drilling into PVC and I was surprised to find that drilling the holes did not result in PVC dust, but instead several curly-Q shards of plastic. Fine by me, as it made cleanup a breeze. After-the-fact-tip: Once again I over-engineered another aspect—the relief hole cutout—though I only realized it after the next step of gluing the panel down. Another perfectly suitable location, and less likely to fail due to glue sealing, is to drill the relief hole beneath where the TD clips will be seated. So basically the hole would be covered by the clip. Alternately, if you plan on using clip screws rather than bolts with nuts, you could actually use a clip screw hole itself for air relief and attach both end caps before driving in the final clip screw. I measured and remarked the previously-determined 31mm (from tube ends) guidelines with blue tape to ensure proper centering of the control panel, and also added a few pieces of tape on the top and bottom long edges of the panel to help align it vertically. I then sanded the underside of the panel with 120 grit sandpaper, but kept away from the tips of the edges so as not to create any rough ridges which might later be visible (via magnifying glass, haha). And then came my first time use of the glorified E-6000, and my amateurism showed. My goal had been to keep the glue away from the panel edges to avoid any seepage out from beneath the panel, because though I knew that E6000 can simply be rubbed/picked off of plain ABS, but I wasn't sure how it would react to the paint and didn't want to risk peeling some of it off. I attempted to create some gaps in my glue lines in order to maintain the functionality of the air relief holes, but who knows if it will have all filled in once the glue is compressed. Below are some photos of my E6000 application, and it quickly became apparent that I used far too much, as it seeped out on the sides. Tip: As seen in the second photo, I used a metal ruler pressed against the edge of my TD tube to ensure that I had the control panel level, and then I taped it down to keep it from sliding around. You want to make sure to position it perfectly parallel and perpendicular relative to the form of the tube, since you don't want your panel to be twisted on the tube and look crooked. In another first, I finally put my magnet sachets (creation thread) to use in conjunction with a couple clamps, as shown above. I then set the TD aside for the E-6000 to cure for several days, and proceeded to work out my TD clips, described in the last section of this post. Several things I learned during the E6000 application process: E6000 is as slippery as they say. Combat this by having adequate guidelines/marks so proper alignment can be maintained. Also use tape to keep pieces stationary in their intended locations before applying clamps and magnets. E6000 will react to at least some paints. This is perhaps what worried me the most while I waited for the glue to cure. The seeping glue immediately absorbed the color of the spray paint so I was left with what appeared like a wet paint mess. NEVER BE IN A HURRY. I repeat, NEVER. In an effort to get the control panel installed prior to heading into work, I did not allow myself enough time and I rushed through the glue application. The eye test should have informed me that I used too much glue based on the applied volume and available surface area. Consider your build a marathon, not a sprint. And actually—just completely forego the competition metaphor altogether. This is a work of art, and art takes time. With curing complete it was time to remove the clamps, magnets, and tape, and hopefully clean off the excess E6000. The moment of truth. Would everything be ok with only minimal paint imperfections, or would the paint peel and require me to start over... Looks ok so far... but... Sure enough, my paint job was affected, though at least it didn't peel off, perhaps due to the two-coat application. Honestly it's probably Legion-passable, but it's definitely not Caleb-passable. I'm not yet sure what I'll do, but I see two options: Order new ABS parts and hone my TD assembly skills. Use extra PVC but purchase more spray paint. Yes, I previously over-sprayed. Sand down the blemished parts, mask off the ABS parts and re-spray over the problem areas. I'm leaning towards option #1, especially since it'd be nice to keep my blemished TD as a memento, but I'll need to decide whether to spend the $30-40 from my nonexistent budget. Since this is my first completed armor component of my build, and despite my errors, I've been excited to finally see a real-life (sorta) TD on my desk! Moving along. Though the photos above show the TD with end caps installed, at this point in the process, with the blemished paint dried, the next thing I did was measure the exact distance each end cap would need to be pressed onto the tube to achieve the 7.5-inch (190.5mm) wide detonator. Since I had cut my PVC tube to 7.25 inches (184.15mm) I knew that each cap had to extend 1/8-inch (3.175mm) beyond the end of the tube. With 20mm end caps, simple math left me with 16.825mm of tubing needing to be covered by the caps on each end. I measured and placed blue tape just beyond that amount on both ends, which would serve as end-stops for my caps. My plan had been to proceed with Tony's hot water bath technique, boiling the caps for 30 seconds each and then sliding the caps onto the tube, but I decided to skip that step with my already-blemished TD. When going the cap-bathing route, always remember to wear appropriate PPE. Below I have my imperfect but nearly-completed thermal detonator with clips mock-mounted. Clips Modification Options This is where the real fun begins, and where I am seeking additional guidance from seasoned veterans. As mentioned in Part 1 of my TD build, Tony's TD clips require a slight modification in order to get them to properly cradle my 2-inch (50.8mm ID) pipe. @ukswrath constructs his clips with universal sizing in order to fit both 2-inch and 68mm (screen-accurate OD) pipe, and below is the process he sent me to adjust them to fit my TD. Completely assemble the TD as normal. Install the clip and screw closest to the control panel. Putting pressure on the clip and screw (not to rip out the screw) form the remainder of the clip around the tube (the material is pliable). Afterwards mark, drill and install the second screw. Reshape the belt clip portion as/if needed. That seems simple enough, but a thought occurred to me upon assessing the procedure. There are actually two routes I could take while tightening the wrap-around of the clips which would result in two different final forms. Below are some diagrams I created to provide a visual reference for the two routes I will need to choose from. In the first photo below, Tony's clips are shown in their current unaltered state with the two versions (2-inch and 68mm) of pipe overlaid. The second photo shows the unaltered clips with 68mm pipe and two orientation options with altered clips and 2-inch pipe (moving/transitioning gif). Option #1 has an elevated tube and Option #2 features a lower position. For simplicity's sake, following the images are notes on the differences between the two options. Note: The images above were designed at 100% scale (printable), though the clips were thickened for clarity. The profile of the 68mm clip was a trace of one I received from Tony, and the profile of the control panel was rough traced and scaled from photos of my ATA panel. Option #1: Raised Increased/lengthened clip wrap-around. Essentially a more enclosed cradle. Clip end closest to control panel sits higher (y-axis) on the tube, and is therefore more visible. Control panel points steeper/higher vertically. The top of the 2-inch TD sits level with top the 68mm on the y-axis (vertical position relative to the belt) Option #2: Lowered Standard ratio amount of clip wrap-around/cradle. Clip end is positioned as intended on the tube's y-axis Control panel points at the appropriate outward/upward angle The bottom of the 2-inch TD sits lower vertically on the y-axis relative to the belt, barely below the typical bottom of the 68mm tube. The vertical portion of the clips between the tube and the belt will be a bit more visible than usual. Personally, I'm more attracted to Option #2 (lowed) since I believe the slight drop in the position of the TD relative to the belt will be mostly unnoticeable, or at least less so than additional surface area on the TD being wrapped by the clips and the control panel facing more upwards. That, plus it seems that many troopers seem to set their TDs too high on their belts anyway, perhaps to match some film anomalies, or simply due to dressing challenges. Then again, if TDs were ever not in level alignment with belts in ANH, they were always elevated rather than lowered, so what to do, what to do. I suppose there might be an Option #3 of splitting the difference between the first two, or perhaps even trimming the end off from where the screw hole is. But I'm not sure I have the tools for that plus the new mounting holes I'd have to drill would be too close to the other holes. SIDE NOTE [beware of math ahead]: Regarding trimming the clips relative to the reduced circumference of smaller pipe. The outer diameter of 2-inch (ID) pipe is about 60.3mm, which equates to a pipe circumference of 189.44mm. The circumference of 68mm (OD) pipe is 213.63mm, so the reduction of 24.19mm down to the smaller pipe represents an 11.32% decrease. Based on eyeballing (I don't have proper clips AND pipe to measure) it appears that clips are intended to cradle/surround roughly 40% of the TD pipe, so on the 68mm pipe that would be an arc length of roughly 85.45mm. For a consistent pipe-to-clip ratio while maintaining the standard height and angle of the control panel, I would therefore want to reduce the 85.45mm clip length by the previously-calculated 11.32%, or 9.67mm. Trimming the nearly 1cm off would bring the new end in barely past the current pre-drilled holes as expected, requiring new ones to be added. So Troopers, what say you? [Since I'm shameless / "this is my most desperate hour", in addition to the Troopers already mentioned throughout this post, I'm also tagging @TKSpartan, @Sly11, and @gmrhodes13 to harness their expertise.] Apparently this two-part thermal detonator series has now stretched into a proper trilogy. Seems appropriate. I will proceed with Part 3 based on the feedback I receive. Thanks in advance! For reference, below are two photos of my clips which I had included in an earlier post, as well as information for confirmed TD pipe sizes for various armor makers. @TheRascalKing was kind enough (as always) to measure and photograph his ANOVOS TD for me, and other than RS (which we can safety assume is 68mm), I heard back directly from all the makers. ATA: 2-inch not included (USA) AP: 2-inch included (Canada) RS: 68mm included (UK) RWA: 68mm pipe included (UK) T/MC / FAC: 68-69mm metal pipe included (USA) WTF: 2-inch included (USA) RT-Mod: 2-inch included (Canada) AM / DDD: 66-67mm (est.) plastic pipe included (USA) CfO: 68mm included (UK) TM: 68mm included (UK) MTK / TB: 2-inch included (USA) ANOVOS: 67mm included (USA) Printable/downloadable PDF of my entire build thread to this point will be updated within a few hours of my own new posts and will note sequential version numbers and revision dates. NOW AVAILABLE HERE NOTE: Some of this post's content is displaying incorrectly in Tapatalk, with entire paragraphs of text emboldened and miscolored, and at least one entire sentence of text missing. Images have been, as they always are, optimized for web viewing on FISD.

A note regarding the bulge at the top of the biceps; it's recommended that they actually be removed. Here are some photos from and link to Joseph's guide to return edges. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48166-return-edges-101-ottk/ Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Let’s go Troopers! For the Empire! Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms