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Everything posted by PhilBobTheFish

  1. At a price like that, with the front diaper included... What a steal!
  2. It looks like you also have space between the brow and the face plate. Try to line up the front edge of the trap with the edge of the eye, on each side, since you can pull the face forward to do so. I'm also not sure exactly how the WTF helmet fits together compared to other helmets, but it looks like you could angle the back and cap forward more, and pull it backwards and down slightly, to help close the gap with the tubes. It could be that the holes are misaligned now because you drilled and riveted both at the same time. You could always do one side first, and rivet it, and then t
  3. Their boots are from Imperial Boots, so most people order a half size up, or full size if they want extra space or have wide feet.
  4. I'd you cut the cover strip to follow the curve of the inner half of the thighs, then cut off the excess plastic on the outer pieces, it will make it more comfortable and look neater. Good job so far!
  5. Also, as for the difference in the ridge height at the bottom of the thigh, I would like it up alone the top of the ridge, so that the cover strip can butt up against it evenly.
  6. For the thigh, you could take off more return edge on the bottom. It won't be visible, and will give your leg more flexibility. As for lining up the back, I would measure the top and bottom of your thigh, and a few inches, and then measure evenly on both the inner and outer part at the top and bottom. For example, a 25" diameter upper thigh, starting big, like 28 or 30 inches. Then measure from the front seam, around the inside along the bottom of the curve, and marking at around 14-15 inches, then measuring at the same height on the outside. Then for the bottom of the thigh, measure and add.
  7. Most people use E6000 or CA glue. E6000 is a little flexible, and you can remove it if you made a mistake. It's downside is it takes longer to dry. CA glue is used because it's fast and strong, but is less flexible and once it's on its not coming off.
  8. As you can see in the references of the original suit, the sides of the shoulder weren't cut perfectly straight. They were actually curved cuts, and this helps them fit closer to the chest and back in later assembly. Since you cut so close to the edge, you can always add the slight curve to the sides. Good work
  9. If the biceps fit you well, and your shoulder bells fit over them and look the part, then there's no problem. Hot water bathing them would be to change the shape better to fit you, but since they already fit, no altering should be necessary.
  10. You're right, since it'll be covered by the strip, it isn't as important to get perfectly flush with each other. It's more of personal preference for how much time you want to put into those pieces, but a little gap is fine as long as it still looks the part once done. At that point, only you will know how it looks underneath. As said, you can sand both sides flat so they line up. Or, another way it to leave about an extra mm on each side of the join, and after trimming, slightly overlap one side over the other and trace the profile of it's trim, then follow that on the other side.
  11. For the forearms, if you're arms aren't extra big or small, then you can trim the flat slide area to match the width of your cover strips. Trim equally from both sides, and the flat area will be around 12mm wide (if I remember correctly), as per the original suit. Then, you can tape the front, and slowly trim away at the back until it fits you comfortably. If you are going to need more room in your armor, leave the front wider, and use a wider coverstrip, and leave more plastic in the back. The important thing is having the front aligned, since it's a pre sculpted ridge, and even with your det
  12. Yup. The two straps connect to the belt, with one snap on each side.
  13. As stated, the most important thing is a lack of return edge. So after completely removing that, you can see how it looks, and if you need to sand it flatter, or if it's fine and the curve isn't noticeable. My own forearms curve in slightly on the inside, but it's barely noticeable, and easier to leave it. I've ordered all my paints online, so you should be completely fine with that.
  14. The good thing is, you don't need to be too artistic to make a stormtrooper. Just perseverance and patience, and asking any questions you have so that you are sure of what you're going to do. 1. (A) The cover strip shouldn't go past the edge of the armor on any pieces. For the biceps and forearms, the cover strip just goes from edge to edge. For the Thighs, the cover strip goes from the top edge to above the raised area at the bottom of the thigh. The shins cover strips go from top to bottom on the front, and from under the raised area to the bottom on the back (only the outer half
  15. I mean, if he hasn't sent it to you yet, I would definitely try to get a refund.
  16. It definitely looks like an RS recast. Are you able to cancel your order and get your money back?
  17. It's an easy fix, removing the paint and all. That's the only thing that stood out to me about your build, and everything looks great. If you check centurion and eib applications, you'll see the snap unpainted. For example, this request: Great build though! Can't wait to see you approved.
  18. To me it looks like you've painted your Han Snap on the ab plate white. If you did, you could easily remove that paint, so you don't get knocked for it. All in all, good job, and good luck.
  19. Go ahead and just cut out the entire bottom of the knee plate, so that you can fit it to the shin. This is about the only way to get it fitted, and will give it flex to shape to the calf.
  20. For mobility cuts, they must not extend past the raised area of the ridges. So, that might be below the edge of your current shim. Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think that the chest and ab plates have to sit perfectly flush with each other, just as long as they overlap.
  21. I believe it's just 1" black elastic (you can just use the same width as your current loops) and you can just buy a certain length of it. Then, you cut it so it's a longer loop, and if you don't want to sew it, you can glue the ends of it with super glue
  22. I've got water bathed parts that were already glued, and have never seen the glue melt in them. Sometimes it would separate because of how much I was shaping the plastic, and the glue just didn't hold. So it shouldn't melt, but if it does separate just reglue. Also, if you want your chest plate to overlap the ab plate more while using bracket, make the strap loops in the front longer. This will allow the chest to hang lower over the ab, and if you really need to shorten the strap then you can. On my armor, the ab isn't really supported by the chest, so the chest just hangs and is a
  23. That part of the ear will probably be covered by the s trim, so it should be fine.
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