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PhilBobTheFish

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Everything posted by PhilBobTheFish

  1. The coverstrips should be fine squared off at the bottom of the shins. But you could always trim a slight angle to have it mesh the two halves together better. Take a look at some centurion requests and see how their shins were assembled. This will also let you see how WTF armor can be assembled.
  2. It would seem they have their blaster listed as "out of stock". Still, emailing to ask about buying one is a good option.
  3. How's this build been going? It may be late, but on your left bicep you should trim the coverstrip so that it doesn't extend over the edge of the armor (the bottom of the front coverstrip)
  4. The strapping pack should come with all the required hardware for centurion. I don't recall all E-11 makers, but I've seen good things about Hellhounds blasters. It's a rubber/foam blaster, so it'll stand up to trooping and won't break easily. It seems he sells them on etsy. https://www.etsy.com/listing/755159316/high-end-rubberfoam-stormtrooper-e-11?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=e-11&ref=sr_gallery-1-19&organic_search_click=1 Also another maker is praetorian blasters: https://m.facebook.com/BlasterMaker/ Here's a thread of someone asking about rubber E-11 makers. I've just skimmed it quickly, but it should be helpful. https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/who-is-making-rubber-hyperfirm-blasters-these-days.334768/
  5. Massive? I wish that's how mine were I know they have a small and large size for their gloves, and they sent me the small ones with my kit, so I'll speak on those. I have slightly big hands, but they were dang near skin tight. Though, for a person with smaller hands, they would probably fit better. So TrickyT81, if the commission hasn't shipped and you have smallish hands and are worried about the gloves being to large, you can try and email them and ask for small gloves. Vice versa, if you have slightly-large to large hands, go for the large gloves (it wouldn't hurt). If they don't fit, then you can always just buy new rubber gloves for a few bucks and glue the handguards on those.
  6. While I haven't ordered a commission from RS, I have built one of their kits. Overall, I was happy with the durability and quality of the armor. It's not the thickest armor, but isn't something that is worrying. Based off of others' commissions, RS commissions are usually very well built, and meet basic approval with little to no work, and the higher levels depending on the person wearing it. Some people have to make modifications, but if your body type is close to the original trooper size, then the commission should fit well no problem, with just fine tuning if you need it to fit you better. As for sitting in the kit? I can't do that in my armor (using the original strapping system), and I'll go out on a limb and assume most people can't sit in their armor. RS uses the same strapping system as the original armor, and I used the same in building my kit. I find it works very well, although not as practical or flexible as other methods of strapping. I also had to resew some snaps on some provided straps, but even that was only a minor issue. If you're going for the most accurate trooper you can, RS does all their assembly and strapping exactly the same (as far as I know), and you should be happy. So does the strapping work well, and is the armor good quality? I'd say yes. Can you sit? Probably not. Good choice on your armor, and I can't wait to see how it turns out.
  7. No, spraying black rubber on the inside should not affect approval or centurion. If you look at centurion approval requests, and build threads, many have black sprayed on the inside of the helmet. If you prefer how it looks, go for it, and it should be approvable so long as it doesn't affect the outside of the helmet. Same as how many people have fans and microphones in their helmets.
  8. At a price like that, with the front diaper included... What a steal!
  9. It looks like you also have space between the brow and the face plate. Try to line up the front edge of the trap with the edge of the eye, on each side, since you can pull the face forward to do so. I'm also not sure exactly how the WTF helmet fits together compared to other helmets, but it looks like you could angle the back and cap forward more, and pull it backwards and down slightly, to help close the gap with the tubes. It could be that the holes are misaligned now because you drilled and riveted both at the same time. You could always do one side first, and rivet it, and then that'll give you an anchor point to drill the hole on the other side. Either way, good luck with the helmet rivets, and the build looks great so far.
  10. Their boots are from Imperial Boots, so most people order a half size up, or full size if they want extra space or have wide feet.
  11. I'd you cut the cover strip to follow the curve of the inner half of the thighs, then cut off the excess plastic on the outer pieces, it will make it more comfortable and look neater. Good job so far!
  12. Also, as for the difference in the ridge height at the bottom of the thigh, I would like it up alone the top of the ridge, so that the cover strip can butt up against it evenly.
  13. For the thigh, you could take off more return edge on the bottom. It won't be visible, and will give your leg more flexibility. As for lining up the back, I would measure the top and bottom of your thigh, and a few inches, and then measure evenly on both the inner and outer part at the top and bottom. For example, a 25" diameter upper thigh, starting big, like 28 or 30 inches. Then measure from the front seam, around the inside along the bottom of the curve, and marking at around 14-15 inches, then measuring at the same height on the outside. Then for the bottom of the thigh, measure and add. Then, measure along the ridge, from the last corner to the edge of the piece, so that it will appear symmetrical. Connect the top mark with the bottom mark with a line on both pieces, and tape them together and test fit. From here, you can make it smaller or larger so it fits, and continue to test fit before cutting. This might have been a confusing explanation, so hopefully someone else can answer or explain better.
  14. Most people use E6000 or CA glue. E6000 is a little flexible, and you can remove it if you made a mistake. It's downside is it takes longer to dry. CA glue is used because it's fast and strong, but is less flexible and once it's on its not coming off.
  15. As you can see in the references of the original suit, the sides of the shoulder weren't cut perfectly straight. They were actually curved cuts, and this helps them fit closer to the chest and back in later assembly. Since you cut so close to the edge, you can always add the slight curve to the sides. Good work
  16. If the biceps fit you well, and your shoulder bells fit over them and look the part, then there's no problem. Hot water bathing them would be to change the shape better to fit you, but since they already fit, no altering should be necessary.
  17. You're right, since it'll be covered by the strip, it isn't as important to get perfectly flush with each other. It's more of personal preference for how much time you want to put into those pieces, but a little gap is fine as long as it still looks the part once done. At that point, only you will know how it looks underneath. As said, you can sand both sides flat so they line up. Or, another way it to leave about an extra mm on each side of the join, and after trimming, slightly overlap one side over the other and trace the profile of it's trim, then follow that on the other side. This'll get them up closer together with less of a gap, and can be done carefully with your cutting tool, because you're basically copying the unstraight line and making the other side match it, like a puzzle piece. Either way, as long as it looks good with a coverstrip and looks good on you, you should be golden. Or rather, shiny white
  18. For the forearms, if you're arms aren't extra big or small, then you can trim the flat slide area to match the width of your cover strips. Trim equally from both sides, and the flat area will be around 12mm wide (if I remember correctly), as per the original suit. Then, you can tape the front, and slowly trim away at the back until it fits you comfortably. If you are going to need more room in your armor, leave the front wider, and use a wider coverstrip, and leave more plastic in the back. The important thing is having the front aligned, since it's a pre sculpted ridge, and even with your determined coverstrip. The back has more adjustability for your desired width. Then, once both sides are trimmed, you can tape it together as a mock finished piece, lined up with the bottom, and then trim the top to be smooth. Since I probably worded this in a confusing way, I'll try to find some build threads or pictures to illustrate what I'm trying to say. EDIT: here's ukswrath's section of forearms, and although it's an anovos kit, the basics of building armor can be carried over through most kits Also here's RS' video tutorial on building their forearm as per an original suit. These measurements are from the original suit, but the principle is the same, so you can alter the fit in the back to suit you.
  19. Yup. The two straps connect to the belt, with one snap on each side.
  20. As stated, the most important thing is a lack of return edge. So after completely removing that, you can see how it looks, and if you need to sand it flatter, or if it's fine and the curve isn't noticeable. My own forearms curve in slightly on the inside, but it's barely noticeable, and easier to leave it. I've ordered all my paints online, so you should be completely fine with that.
  21. The good thing is, you don't need to be too artistic to make a stormtrooper. Just perseverance and patience, and asking any questions you have so that you are sure of what you're going to do. 1. (A) The cover strip shouldn't go past the edge of the armor on any pieces. For the biceps and forearms, the cover strip just goes from edge to edge. For the Thighs, the cover strip goes from the top edge to above the raised area at the bottom of the thigh. The shins cover strips go from top to bottom on the front, and from under the raised area to the bottom on the back (only the outer half of the shin, so that it can still open). (B) It's not really expected that the cover strips will sit perfectly flush to the armor after glueing, and from most angles the tiny gaps will be unnoticeable. So unless you are really peeved by these gaps, or they are abnormally large, then you should be fine to leave them be. 2. The inside part of the armor is known as the return edge, and it's where the armor cuts in in the moulding process. Some people leave a bit of return edge on their armor for a sense of thickness, but others take it off for comfort. In the case of the biceps and forearms, you can take out the return edge at the top of the biceps and elbow, and this is perfectly fine. 3. Same thing for return edge on the thighs. You can partially or completely remove it if you need to. Also, for the back of the knee, do you mean cutting into the raised area of the armor? This was done on certain screen used armor, to allow for more mobility, and it's allowed here. As long as the cuts don't extend past the raised area of the armor. Check references for this, and measure twice before you cut, because it's always harder to put back plastic. 4. Yessir. 5. This depends on how your armor is assembled, and what strapping method you use. The main factor is how tall you are. If you're a bit shorter, you don't want the chest plate choking you out, so it'll be lower over the ab. If you're taller, it'll be stretched out a bit to accommodate the height. And if you use the original strapping method, it'll be fairly standard for how much it overlaps, but you can still change it from there. 6. For this, you can check the Sandtrooper CRL to see what they require for approval, or ask over on the MEPD forums. But yes, I'm pretty sure that for anything past basic approval as a Sandtrooper, you can't have the hard plastic shoulder bridges. 7. Velcro is good, but some people may not prefer it for rigorous movement. As for elastic and Velcro, this is about the only way to strap up armor using Velcro. Without elastic, nothing will stretch and flex and you move, so you will be fine will standing still, but will not be able to move and probably disconnect velcro. So elastic is the best thing to strap, as it supports the armor, and gives you the lenience to move easier. People have also used a combination of snaps and velcro sewed on to elastic for their armor, just for extra security. 8. The main thing with the side of the ab and kidney plates is not having a gap. So if you're a bit smaller and overlap a bit, this is better than having a small gap. So unless I'm wrong, avoid a gap, or ask your gml.
  22. I mean, if he hasn't sent it to you yet, I would definitely try to get a refund.
  23. It definitely looks like an RS recast. Are you able to cancel your order and get your money back?
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