PhilBobTheFish

Hooks in on the shins.

You can always do multiple baths to slowly work the piece into the new shape, as it usually won't go fully in one bath. Just dip it for a little bit, shape it, cool it, and you can do that again to shape it more. It'll also help it keep it's new shape better, as pieces sometimes revert back a bit to there original shape.

"( " Yeah, as others have said, a water bath is probably you best bet at getting it flat. And although that extra plastic isn't listed in the crl, the safest way to be sure would be to talk with your gml on what they need. You have two, so if they say you don't need it (and you are fine with it), then use the trimmed one. And you can always try and flatten the other untouched one if you do want it.

I can't wait to see the build thread! The main difference that I can note between stunt and hero for basic approval is the number of teeth on the helmet, and the number of rivets or the like on the holster to belt connection (hero's have 4; stunts have 2). Then as Mario said, there are more slight differences in higher levels. Good luck!

I'd say the best place to ask would be over on https://501stclonetroopers.com/. That's the detachment for Clone Troopers, whereas the FISD is more geared towards Stormtroopers, so they will be better able to help you.

For the sizing of your ears, I'm not so sure. That's more up to you, but I'll leave it to others to advise you in any way there. As for the placement, there are some things you can do for it to be more screen accurate. Those helmets had the ear screws aligned with the front traps, and your left ear is fairly spot on, the right one should be aligned to match though.

Definitely check out Spec Ops, and also good job on your build. The main thing to note is, maybe lower the chest so that it overlaps the ab plate more, and maybe being the shoulder bells in a bit, just to complete that look. Good luck on approval, and nice job.

Looking good. Glad to see you are able to get around to this long held project in this time. Remember, if you ever have any doubt, feel free to ask, and someone with more knowledge than myself will answer. Good luck with your build.

The first episode sure got the blood pumping and the hype for tomorrow's episode building. Can't wait to see you all in one of these episodes.

Technically FX would be screen accurate to that one set in the show, similar identifying the no stripes in the original, and you could replicate it if you want, but that doesn't mean it is CRL approved. Once is random, twice is a coincidence, and three times is also a coincidence. Once it gets into the 10's or 20's it becomes recognized as the standard and the baseline for the CRL, but even that's still up to chance.

Maybe your stormtrooper has some extended universe background of doing squats?

Well, it's true that they're not the same... Because they actually exist.

Aight so with I quick look at I'd say that the tops of the shoulder bells could be brought in closer to the chest and the thighs can be pulled up.

Also, if the return edge is uncomfortable, then take off some more, because nobody wants to troop and be pinched the whole time. But, if you want to keep the look of the return edge, then just remove the return on the back side of the armor.

I've seen a lot of people double joint the front of the shins to handle the stress of putting in on many repeated times. You could also try putting on the boots first, then opening the top of the shins enough to fit over the narrowest part of your ankle and sliding it up onto your shin. That would make it so you don't have to open all of it enough to fit over your entire shin, and would probably reduce stress.

Welcome to the forum and can't wait to see the build. RS is a very accurate and vetted set of armor, but might be a little harder to assemble because of its awkward construction. As other have said, keep doing research because no matter how much you think you know, there is always something that can be learned to improve your build and the experience. It would also make mistakes less likely to happen if your are certain about what you are trying to do. Also, do you plan on going for EIB or Centurion? RS armor is very fitting for such because of it's lineage and of you bought the strapping kit then you would have centurion level straps where they are needed. Just a little something to improve the overall look of your trooper and be proud of what you've done, but what ever you aspire towards is up to you and what you want from your set. Good luck on this whole process, and just enjoy the twisted ride that will likely ensue.

The most important thing is that you like your amor. So even if SDS is not the best objectively, as long as you're happy with what you have and think it looks good then that's what matters. You just might have to change stuff for approval and higher levels.

Although I don't have the IB strap kit, it looks good and seems like a good little package of straps and snaps. Some people get mr nostripes brackets than just by the other parts independently. You can also just by individual straps, snaps, velcro, and other things and just make the internal strap setup yourself.

TM is a fairly close color match to RS. Also, ESB armor is reused ANH, so the color would be pretty similar between the two.

Doopydoos. Praetorian blasters. Others.

He is already on the list.

Even when I typed "mini", I was just thinking, "This is an exaggeration and is gonna be taken the wrong way. Oh well." I agree with everything you said.

The 501st only takes the accuracy on the outside of the Stormtrooper, not the inside. Only visible details and straps are put into the CRL, and slightly idealized to make joining an easier process. When people regard accuracy, most of the time they base it off of the projected view of their stormtrooper. That is one of the reasons there are different levels of approval, so people can build to the level of accuracy they wish to achieve and represent. Some examples of screen accurate things that are not typically common on 501st troopers are things like the rubber chemical gloves and brackets connecting the torso. Gloves are required for EIB and Centurion because they are visible on screen troopers, but not all Centurion troopers wear rubber gloves on troops because they are hot and impractical. Brackets are used by people who want thorough screen accuracy, but they aren't long term straps or durable so they aren't needed because they are not seen. When people regard the accuracy of the armor, they are usually talking about the armor. This is usually about accuracy in terms of dimensions in comparison to on screen armor, as well as the overall shape and appearance. So the most screen accurate armor would be smaller, as it was sized for mini british extras, but also retains a very similar appearance to the armkr on screen. Some armors are bigger, but are very similar in terms of shape, so they are still seen as accurate, just not as accurate.

If you check out the Vetted Armor Sellers list in the getting started page ( https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ ), it lists the armor sellers whose armor has been validated and good quality, and the sellers are reputable. Not all armors are at the same level of accuracy, and the differences are in the list. One of the major problems people have with SDS is that he has lied about his work and the origins of his armor. Also, it is not very accurate in terms of overall assembly and shape of armor. Once you look at screen used or very accurate armor enough, the many inaccuracies are very evident, just compare it to the CRL (https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt). To be approvable in the 501st, you have to accurately represent an original stormtrooper... to an extent. This doesn't mean you have to look like you walked off screen or are the same size as the originals (just look at aubmissions), but this is why there are levels past basic approval like EIB and Centurion. So as long as armor meets the basic requirements outlined in the CRL, the armor can be approved. In addition to meeting CRL standards, the armor also has to fit the wearer well and can't look out of place to be approved. So all in all, SDS can be approved if it meets the basic standards and fits you well, but more modifications would have to happen to reach higher levels of accuracy. This is part of the reason people build their armor feom kits instead of buying already completed armor. You get to choose armor based off of the level of accuracy you want to achieve, price you are willing to spend, and any other factors affecting you (like different size troopers buy different size armor). Building armor makes sure that the armoe is tailored to the builder and fits well and comfortably. The front of the belt is plastic and is riveted (I believe) to white canvas which wraps around and velcroes in the back. To reach basic approval, the back portion of the belt must be white canvas. In reference to you statement about color of armor, this varies and is taken in to account when people buy armor. Differences in color may be because of different material used by sellers for armor, but it is usually ABS. Some people prefer a cleaner look, and choose a brighter white set of armor, while others who like the screen accurate look choose a creamier, duller set. There are quite a few sellers that have an accurate color for their armor (TM for example), but in the end it is up to personal preference. If you are going for accuracy of assembly, armor, and color, as well as having the stormtrooper be completed already, then SDS is not one of the best choices for this. Check out the previously mentioned Vetted Sellers List and some people offer commisioned armor build. RS Prop Masters is one of the most (and arguably the most) accurate set of armor out their. It is cast from an original set of armor (what SDS claimsof their own, but has been proven false) and validated by the original sculptor of the armor (again, a claim that SDS made about themselves, but proven false) Brian Muir. It is one of the most accurate in terms of ABS color and assembly, and they offer completed armor sets built to the buyer's specifications. TM is a fan-sculpted armor set that is near identical to RS, but less of the beat up screen used look. It is also very accurate armor in terms of shape and color, and I believe they offer completed commisioned builds.

1.5 mm is more flexible (because it is thinner), while 2 mm would be slightly stronger. There would be that much of a difference. 2 mm would be slightly softer on sharp details because it is thicker. Just found this that could help: