Madmartigan

Ah HA! Gino finally has his proof that Paul recast a face!

Drill out the fourth tooth. The fifth is optional, since it likely would only be a really small hole anyway.

Yeah...there goes the neighborhood.

I did something different, as well. Mounted my male snaps on 1.5" squares of styrene. Then I took a cheap soldering iron and placed the tip right in the middle of the back of the male snap. After about 10 seconds or so, the snap heats the surrounding plastic enough that you can then push it flush with the rest of the back of the tab. You'll end up with the front of the male snap on a slight "bubble" of plastic. Words of caution: obviously, wear gloves. Second, don't use a soldering iron you are in love with, since this will eventually make the tip less useful for actual soldering. Mine was a $9 Radio Shack cheapie, so I didn't care. Third, don't hold the tip there too long or push the back of the snap too far through or you'll risk pushing it all the way through the back. But, do it right and once it cools, they are solid and perfectly flush. And it only takes about 30 extra seconds per snap.

Nice, Joe! If you can edit your feedback, you should put the SDS website address in it and say "Saved you 400 pounds!"

Just want to say that once I asked Dan Laws for a refund, he was accomodating enough and got my money back to me. As such, I really have no hard feelings. While I was definitely a little frustrated at times with how the whole run of his new armor may have been handled and how progress was slower than any of us expected (especially poor Rolf), I truly hope it turns out as nice as he plans and can match the quality of his AT-AT and TIE kits that everyone raves about. I look at it mostly as a cautionary tale of balancing the business and hobby side of these types of efforts. Make sure before you try to scale something as a business that you have enough time to deliver on your customers' expectations. If you have their money, they almost certainly will not look at it as your "hobby" for too long.

The leather preparer is, basically, acetone. I would think that would also take the color spray off pretty effectively. C

Were you attaching porn again?

+1 Buy two cans. One for the first time you paint them -- will take several coats. The second one for touch ups.

Congrats, Pablo! About time....

Try a shim: You can glue a small piece of scrap ABS or Styrene on top of the finishing strip at the very top of the shin -- between the finishing strip and the knee plate. You might even want to take a stack of two small squares or rectangles. This will angle the top of the knee plate outwards a little more. I rarely have a problem now with the knee plate slipping behind my thigh. If you've already glued the knee plate in place it might be problematic, but otherwise the rivets will just act as a hinge until you put this in place. Rock on, brother!

Gonna have to respectfully disagree there. Ya don't go mucking up a nice TM kit with a non-screen accurate detail like that. Looks like he needs a strap from back to kidney. On the back, go about 2-3 inches up from bottom of the back to a point 2-3 inches down from top of the kidney. Space 'em about five inches apart - 2-3 inches from center each. That'll snug it all up and look accurate. Depending on how tall you are, there may or may not be a slight overlap of back over kidney. Chest is not rising, but it does look like it's shifting a little when you twist. If you don't have one from chest to ab yet, add that, too. For the chest, go from just below the middle of each "pec" to a couple inches straight below the top of the inside of the ab. That will keep the chest and ab connected nicely. See the stukatrooper, FBJ, or TKDueno photos for reference or I can shoot you a couple of mine. Looks great, bud!!

+1

Congrats to Billy and Panda both!

Exactly. Two on the circular part of the ear cap (top and bottom) and one on the piece at the bottom of the inverted T. Hero only has one screw at top of ear cap and the one at the bottom of the T. No second one on the top portion.

http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=8446&hl= Go to www.tkboots.com and email them today to find out if they have your size. They're a less expensive, more accurate alternative to CA boots. Good luck! C

The answer is yes, but like Bill said it takes work. I bought an MR E-11 that was no longer pristine and made several mods to it, including functioning stock. You pull the front of the barrel off exactly as he said. Then the work began. I use some washers and a screw to secure the stock in place when I don't want it to unfold and a rare earth magnet to hold the butt end of the stock to the main frame when it's folded up: I also drilled out the cocking lever slot, added a different inner barrel and the Doopydoos resin cocking lever and other parts, but that's a whole different story. With a little work, you can get these about as close to the real thing as possible. But, boy -- the weights a slave Leia! lol Cheers! Chris

I got a gun from Woodchuck, and he is obviously cutting corners! It was made of only balsa and toilet paper rolls instead of real wood and PVC!

I last heard from him a month or so ago and he was still finishing up a few parts. Really looking forward to getting it when it's done!

Awesome looking suit! Fantastic job, and welcome to the ranks!!

Yeah, I'd take less exception to some thin areas in a faceplate that is pulled versus something that is casted. Thinner plastic is needed to get sharp details if you aren't pulling with an industrial setup. But how much more does it take to slush in a little more resin or make sure you laid enough fiberglass? That's just being lazy and irresponsible.

I know at least 3 EIB there: myself, Sgt JB, and Curemode. Plenty of others who are probably on FISD, as well. It was a fun time, and I'm trying to get a better quality still of myself standing next to Wanda Sykes in her Elmo getup -- the highlight of my day! -------- Here's one other I found from a fellow CTG-er's camera. I'm on the right: ------ And goofing off in NBS offices afterwards with the CTG CO and another CTG-er. If they bring in Stormtroopers for Talent Negotations, you know times must be tough! ---------- Cheers! Chris

Glued with E600 in the front and free floatin in the back. Haven't even bothered with the rubber bands yet.

If you want to go for a more accurate look and also help keep your chest from rising too high (since you're a tall guy), skip the chest to back strap. Those weren't on the screen armor from what I've seen. Instead, strap the chest to ab and back to kidney. For the chest to ab, you would want the snaps/straps on the ab to start near the very top of the ab. For the chest, you obviously can't put them at the very bottom, since the ab covers that. Instead place them about two inches from where the chest is clear of the ab. Might be right underneath the "pecs". Do similarly for back to kidney. If there's no overlap, put them closer to the bottom. If the back does overlap the kidney, move the snaps on the back up a little. Do it right and it holds everything in place and keeps either back or chest from rising too much. Looking good so far! Chris

The armor was ABS and the helmets (other than hero versions) were painted HDPE. Couldn't get the detail and undercuts right with ABS, so the HDPE was used. You can see the contrast in colors in most of the "grunt" helmets and armor when the troops are lined up.