Madmartigan

Pretty sure it's the only set. I thought Paul mentioned once that he kept sacrificing the original molds to build the next size up. But I'm sure he'll pop in and let us know. If these had ever been made available, I'm sure you'd see people (like me!) just storing it for a couple years while the toddler grows big enough to wear it.

*Truth* I think becuase I was trying to support my wife in her post-pregnancy weight loss, I was undereating by a LOT! Here I am -- just a hair under 6'0" and because of what I would allow myself to keep in the house (to keep her from being tempted) , etc., I calculated over the last week and I was probably only eating about 1200-1400 calories a day! While exercising intensely 4-5 days per week. Yikes. The past two days I bumped that up to make sure I was eating at least closer to 2000 and I'm over my plateau. Hit 189 yesterday. Undereating = almost as counterproductive as overeating.

6'0"

I decided I'd had enough when I hit 207 or so and could no longer close my TM up without a gap on the sides. About 5 weeks of P90x (well...most of it anyway) and pretty strict diet later, and I'm just north of 190. Should probably be back into the high 180s in the next few days and back to target weight of 180-185 in a few more weeks. Then I can think about pulling out the Spidey suit again, too.

Mad props on the Hamlet reference and on quoting it correctly!! A fellow of infinite jest....

Bondo Glazing putty: ------------ You can find it at Home Depot with the other Bondo products. Use it on the outside of the helmet to fill the cracks after you reinforce from the inside. Easy to apply and sand. And if you want to reinforce in a way other than the t-shirt and CA glue patch, you can. One way would be HIPS putty (made by submersing plastic scraps in acetone) -- but if you don't actually have scraps that becomes difficult. Not sure what you mean by the mask being pushed in. I would get the parts reinforced and filled, then refit everything to make sure it is really a problem. If you must, you could try a heat gun (low heat) or blow dryer to help manipulate it. But then you are really risking some serious warping.

Get some really good CA glue. I prefer Slo-Zap for the thicker consistency and longer working time: http://www.hobbytown.com/Shop/Slo-Zap-CA-Adh-PT-20-1oz/ I can speak from experience. I almost totally melted a TE2 stripping the paint once. But the t-shirt method, some glazing putty, and a lot of diligence and patience later, and it looks almost good as new. My cracks were much worse. Good luck! p.s. re: lenses -- I actually use both. Welders visor material covered with the acetate on the outside to give the look of the screen accurate lens, while still maintaining the opacity I want to keep people from seeing in. Try it!

Get some Meltonian Nu-Life leather preparer (acetone based) to strip any finish off and the hit it with several coats of Meltonian Nu-Life white color spray. Make sure and tape off the edge of the sole first!!

Sweet! I've tried multiple times to get my bicep to stay in place on the shoulder with a snap and strap. If gaffers tape is "canon", I'm all for it!!!

Dennis, Is that just white gaffers tape holding the bicep to the shoulder??

I rivet the male snap back onto the canvas belt and attach the female side onto the holster as directed. You need to take the snap setter and/or some needle nosed pliers to hammer down and bend the rivet on the inside of the male snap once you're done so that it will fit inside the female snap. So, you get the best of both worlds: the riveted look with the ability to pop off the holster. I did it, in part, because I use the same holster for both my hero and stunt setup -- just swap the belts.

I would think it depends on the thickness of the "legs". I've seen special anvils and special attachments to close them on a press in a couple of sites. One guy hand made something he attached to some vice grips and created his own jury rigged hand press. Other said just use a flat anvil and they should spread properly.

Agreed. I am thinking of shortening the strap from my biceps and making more overlap with the shoulder to reduce the pinch at the elbow because my humerus is no where near as long as that guy in the front row! =)

re: "Chest and back should be connected with a white fabric strap." Might want to add "at the shoulders". With so many of the old suits connecting the chest and back on the sides with black elastic, I was thrown for a second: "Wait a second! There's no connection on the sides - black, white, fabric, elastic, or otherwise!" *pause* "Oh.....!"

I use this one: -------- You'll probably want to pad out the elbow joints once you have the pose set, since there is nothing but the metal pivots there. But it's a pretty adjustable setup for a good price. Good luck! Chris

True dat. And painted black johdpur boots beat both.

Farther out to the sides. The elastic strap should sit more or less between where the last box is on the belt and the plastic covered rivet.

Especially politic since in some screenshots it looks as if Han and Luke were mixing and matching at times -- i.e. one of each!!

Paul, Awesome job! Quick note that you guys may have already caught: The ANH Hero CRL has a couple of errors with regards to the helmet -- under helmet it actually says "The ANH Stunt", has a picture of the ANH Stunt, and references flat green lenses (but the correct three ear bumps and two screws). Same mistakes are present under Construction Notes for helmet. -Chris

Got pictures? Then maybe it will be easier to advise.

Hmm...well, it is HIPS armor, so if you decide to acetone putty the seam then you have that going for you. I think if you want to add the proper width finishing strip, that's probably your best option. But you wouldn't necesarily have to fill the entire gap with putty. You could lay down your v-shaped inner shim, then create a second v-shaped "leveling" shim and glue that into the channel created between the two sides in the back. Make that shim match the channel closely enough and you'd essentially only be puttying and sanding a very small portion of the actual gap. Once you prime and paint over that, chances are you'd never even see it. Would be impossible with an unpainted ABS suit, but again, the HIPS gives you some room to play. I'm sure you will come up with something even more elegant. Good luck!

When is it not with you?

Looks nice, B! What paint did you end up going for?

Really? Cool beans! Looks like it's going to be quite the crew assembled.

There's the Mr. Anderson we know and love! There's always Spanx! lol http://www.spanx.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=3955558 I lost about 2 inches over the past 3 months to get into my TM. It can definitely be done. I bet you can even get it done before Woburn if you want to ditch Pre and march old school!