Madmartigan

Not sure about plastic weld, but if it's just E6000'd on, you can gently pry it off with a putty knife. Work slowly around all the edges and move your way in. I've pried snap tabs and even finishing strips off of armor that had parts held on with E6000 with no side effects.

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right: ------------ Masking fluid with one of the little frisket brushes is the best, hands down. And it will absolutely look like chips when you're done. My $.02.

Ah...split rivets. That's the term I was looking for. And here are the ones: http://www.globalsources.com/gsol/I/Jean-rivet/p/sm/1016403128.htm ...that look most like the "star" impressed split rivets seen in this photo (at least that I've been able to find): ...if you were trying to replicate that particular suit. But for the most part, the split rivets are what you'd want.

That would be difficult because you can see different ones in different screen captures or archive reference. For the most part, it looks like they are not typical pop rivets (though many of us use them), but more likely a cap rivet or jean rivet. I think I had even posted what a thought was a good match some time ago for the ones with the star imprint that show up on some reference. But if someone is going to have a good idea, I'd say Mark or Paul/TM would be able to venture a pretty good guess.

Now you tell us! I was following your old videos and tutorials. Fortunately, both my buckets still came out looking great. To Mike you should listen!

An old piece (slightly bigger than the crack) of a white t-shirt soaked in slow setting CA glue like this works wonders, too. -----

I think it is near impossible to get perfect. Even when 90% of a piece looks great, you'll likely still have a spot or two without that shine. In those cases, I'd use Novus or even a super fine sanding kit (2000, 4000, 8000, 12000 grit, etc.).

The Humbrols stick to ABS just fine.

I'm telling you, that would be putting lipstick on a pig. Scratchbuild, my friend. Scratchbuild.

You can also use Sintra or even For Sale sign plastic to cover the backs.

Screw that! Start a pipe blaster!! Get the Doopydoos kit and sub in what you're missing. You could make one kick-butt blaster that way!

Duct tape ftw! I'm all for the KISS method where I can. I've actually been using both acetate and welders shields in my stunts. I find the accurate acetate a little light and that it doesn't shield the eyes enough from people seeing in. So, I put the acetate facing outside, and then cut Grade3 welders shields into "lenses" and tape those to the acetate on the inside. Net result? Looks more accurate than just a welder's shield from the outside with that green "shiny/mirrored" look, and dark enough that no one can see my eyes.

YES YES! Can they be based off the tube stripes in the ANH full decal set, versus the standalone tube stripes? That would ROCK!!!

Be interested to see how this goes. I'm seriously considering peeling off my decals and painting them on my TM hero and TE2. I've considered either laying the borders with painters tape and hand painting the stripes or using airbrush frisket paper and brushing them on. Not sure which route I'll ultimately go when i work up the courage. Good luck!

Good looking helmets, Mark! Nice edition to your ever changing collection.

Paul -- do you mean they hooked from the outside in (versus from inside out, like Mark has done)? Or was it much more different?

Looking great, Kevin! Quick question: are your biceps strapped to the shoulder bells? If not, I'd do that to move them up a smidge so the bottom of the shoulder overlaps the top of the bicep. If they are already strapped, you might need to shorten them a little -- an easy fix, just add a new snap closer on the strap. Will also help avoid pinches at the elbow when you bend them. Otherwise, looks fantastic!

Congrats, indeed and well deserved! *salute*

I used a brass drain pipe from Home Depot for mine. You need a little filler for the end cap to fit snugly, but everything else worked perfectly.

Who made the bubble lenses? Just got a TM hero myself and made my own with limited success. Would love to get some with better visibility.

Walmart also tends to have it in the crafts section.

That scope rails looks to be cast directly off the MR E-11. Guessing everything but the Hengslter and power cylinders are.

What Mark said -- glue it on with a glue stick and use a multibit if it's a softer sort of metal. There is definitely something satisfying about that fully drilled barrel.

Assuming you've got a nice piece of ABS or styrene on the outside, I'd just get some cheap "For Sale" signs at The Home Depot or Walmart and cut those to use as reinforcement on the inside. Some troopers (like Rolf, I believe) don't even bother with the inside. I've used the signs inside clone armor to good effect.

Good job, brethren!