Harbinger

Ryan, you should be buying lotto tickets.

Hi Rob, seems like you're missing some of the information, like 501st profile page/TKID, height/weight, and some of your photos show up as missing (at least on my end).

Lots of progress. Coming together nicely. Looks like your drop boxes are lined up with the bottom corners instead of the outer edges of your belt though... since I assume you're aiming for L2/L3 you'll want to move those out a bit and sew/glue down the elastic so they stay put:

Looking good trooper.

I think that's the thigh where there top swoops out? Mine was the same way and if I tried to get that right the coverstrip overlapped everywhere else.

I did velcro for ab to chest so I can get in/out of my suit easier. I would suggest elastic (heavily reinforced) for back to kidney though, I had nylon at first and every time I had to reach forward I could feel it tugging.

Congrats (again)!

Well, some people do all one or the other. Each has pros and cons: Nylon Pros - Durable, easy to cut (melt) Cons - No flex, more stress on connection points (possible damage to strapping/armor might occur) Elastic Pros - Flexible Cons - Harder to work with (fray check, sewing usually required) If you go with elastic I'd recommend getting the heavy duty thick stuff and doubling it up, personally I used nylon for most areas and only have elastic in a few spots for flex, for example one side of my ab/kidney connection is nylon but the other is elastic so I can actually get the snaps on and off.

Nice job on the scope. It'll look fantastic with some paint!

I see plenty of people mask off and spray the inside of the helmet so it's definitely doable. Not so sure on the technique myself as I've never done it (yet), hopefully someone else will chime in.

You could always sell it on here, if they give you any trouble.

The belt might tighten that up, mine flares out at the bottom until I’ve cinched my belt down. If not then you may need to shim.

Well, single cap (rapid) rivets is what they used in the film, so you don't have to use pop rivets.

Better than mine.

Congrats, an Anovos shipping email is a rare sight.

Great attitude, good luck trooper!

You could always try silicone sealant/caulk, available at most home improvement places. It may work.

Got started on the mic tips tonight (white discs are sign material for reinforcing the very thin plastic on the helmet where the mic tips mount): New and improved chest/back straps arrived today (thanks, Tony!), so I'll have to get started on those soon as well: New straps are 1/4" shorter and much thicker, so hopefully they will tighten up the shoulder bell gap.

As someone who owns a pair, you're better off getting a new pair from ImperialBoots or TKBoots. Even if you are able to cover up the seams, TK/Imperial Boots are of much better quality and will last a lot longer. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but on the bright side at least you'd have a backup pair!

Nice little video montage you put together. Blaster looks terrific.

You'll need rubber for Centurion... I say get them and then troop with the cloth. Then just use the rubber for any high profile/LFL stuff.

Congrats!

If you go with with the line 24 snaps, I can't recommend the Tandy brand ones enough - much, much heavier duty than the ones most places offer. Especially if you go for the stainless steel ones.

It's not really another couple months of work for Centurion in my opinion. Other than the flexible hand plates and needing to procure a blaster, it's more about how you build everything. I built my kit in 5 weeks (granted, I bought it second-hand and most of it was already trimmed) with Centurion as the end goal (still have a few last-minute things, to be fair). PS: Molds were built for an actor 5'9"/5'10". Most taller guys just need longer shims, it just means you'll have longer gaps between limbs. If you have a long torso you might need to tweak some things, but you'll find out on your first test fitting.

Well, you can always do what I did and pick up an OT TK kit to bide your time (and justify your Tier 1/pre-order savings to fund it). I suppose the 'glass half full' with all these delays is we can build our FOTK's to Centurion standards from the start.