kman

I know you weren't lying, I was just kidding. No problem about the thigh return edge. Just taper it off smoothly so it looks nice.

Great job, Tom, you're looking good! Considering how good you're looking on your first fitting, I'm starting to wonder how much you were yanking our chain with the many "problems" you had, LOL! (I kid, of course, I know it's scary and frustrating at times... but you've done very well) I agree with Tony's list. Also, you might want to pull your biceps slightly higher (not much, just a little), only if that will pull your forearms up a bit so they're not quite as low on the back of your hand? That left arm in particular seems a touch low. Perhaps round off (slightly!) the peaks at the back of the thighs (just a little!), as we discussed before, to help them not hit the butt plate quite as much. A little foam just inside the knee below the sniper plate, and a little foam in the back of the same thigh (#4 on Tony's list), to pull the front in, can help stop that overlap. And finally, I note your left shin armor is starting to drift up a bit (which contributes to the sniper plate overlap). This is a common problem, with a lot of different solutions. One solution is here, in this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35329-howto-keeping-tk-shins-in-place/I've also seen people put some industrial velcro right on the front top leather of their boots (about 1" of the soft stuff) and then put the matching scratchy part inside the front of the shin armor. That stops the shins from working their way up. There are a bunch of other ways you may have stumbled across, too, so use whatever seems best / most convenient to you.

... green?

Impressive... most impressive...

Doopy has not made a kit for the Disney blaster (so far). Some people have modified the regular Doopy kits to work with it, but it's a fair amount of effort.

I believe this is the tutorial Tony is referring to: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36456-anovos-hovi-mic-tip-mod/ I recommend a Chapstick tube for forming/shaping the replacement mesh. Perfect size. No need to tape up a battery like Chris did. Apparently they don't have Chapstick in Wales? LOL

What a wonderful, and touching, newsletter this month! I wish I had my helmet with me at work, as I sit here at my desk, trying to keep it together, because the tears could flow! So very honored to be a part of this grand collection of great people.

IMO, if you're going to go through the trouble, may as well just repaint the whole frown with the correct shade of gray (Testors 1138... yes, really! LOL (or Humbrol #5)) and add the corners at that point. It's really easy to wipe it off and repaint it, and I suck at painting.

Don't know exactly how loose it is with out a pic (or video), but the thighs are supposed to be able to move freely. I would wait until you can try the entire kit on, and post pics, before you hack off any more plastic.

TrooperBay, once they open, sells plastic sheets. (As long as you're not worried about a color match, since it's going inside. Color match is REALLY tough, depending on what armor you're trying to match.) Another option: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WP24XU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FWWCVO9POVQF

Exactly! Great minds...

Looking good!

I would think you could use your regular bucket. The part that screams "LEGO" is the leg and chest... and perhaps the hands? Those would be the most important parts to nail, I'd think.

Clever! I wonder if it might be a good idea to also put it into a big trash bag, to act as a dust barrier... I know anything in my garage has a thin coat of dust on it after a couple of weeks.

You can see how I did mine in my build thread, if you want: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35552-kmans-anovos-tk-adventure-build/?p=480425

I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JR3S74M/ No longer available but I think there are newer versions that might be the same exterior.

Almost done with the plastic part! Next you get to discover the real hassle... the internal rigging! LOL

Nope, no issues, here, either. I used "Rustoleum Painters Touch 2X Ultra Cover" which claims it bonds well to plastic. My decals definitely bonded REALLY well to the paint. (So much so that I had to sand and repaint an area when I needed to reposition the decal, since it peeled the paint off) It took 3-4 cans (I can't recall which) to do enough coats that it all seemed solidly coated.

Best bet is a different battery that doesn't have the "smart" power function.

Nomex flight gloves for trooping, rubber only for high-accuracy canon events and Centurion submission. WAY too hot here to troop in rubber. I know a handful of hardy souls that do it, but wow, more power to them. I'll stick with Nomex flight gloves!

They're leather boots. Same as any other leather boots you may have. Some people are firm believers in shoe stretchers everytime they put their leather shoes away. Certainly doesn't hurt your shoes to do that. Might even help! (something?) I personally don't bother, and have not experienced any shrinkage over the past 6 months. (other than that one time in a cold pool...)

No, I didn't use primer or sand anything prior to spraying the plastidip in the helmet. I just stripped the helmet down to bare plastic, cleaned it THOROUGHLY (Windex then rubbing alcohol to remove any chemical additives that remained from the Windex), and then masked the heck out of it (as the pictures show in my build thread).

Maybe just some Scotchguard? They're just leather boots, after all. Your local shoe repair place should have plenty of good options. Perhaps a camping store will have a good waterproofing material you can use.

I can't remember where I found this graphic, but it made it all clear to me. Some makes of armor have the cover strips moulded into half of the armor instead of being a separate piece (which is more screen accurate). When it's moulded in, you use the overlap method (or cut it off). When the parts are separate, you use the butt join:

Please reference Ukswrath's build thread. Here is his photo which I believe you will note looks just like mine: See: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/page-31#entry470387