kman

It would likely work, but I don't see it as a huge improvement over a simple fan system. It would definitely make talking a bit harder.

The link above it so his profile page here on FISD. There is a button on that page to send him a message.

KB, Jim, and Anovos are the only ones I can think of, other than the one known recaster who shall not be named.

FWIW, I'd be leery of making tolerances too tight. In my limited experience, one thing I've definitely seen is that boards go through revisions all the time, and the "X" board you bought from company "Y" two months ago but end up being revised, and the "X v.1.1" board has a different shape with different components.

Not just you. Forum has been entirely down a number of times in the past few days, and even when it's up, I've also seen the very sssslllloooooowwwww posting behavior you mention.

Can you borrow a friend's blaster? See how theirs is. Want more than their's, or less? Shoot for that. I plan to use my Hyperfirm as a general model. Drybrushing tends to be best technique, but there are lots to choose from for those with multiple skillsets.

I believe TK Boots usually are fairly true to size (although all of these boots are on the narrow side, so consider sizing up if you have wide feet). Imperial Boots run small. As Mark said, though, some like the larger size for thicker socks, or insoles, or just wider feet.

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." ~ Benjamin Franklin. Keep drinking the beer. Just add shims on the sides. Very simple for the Anovos OT TK. I did it on mine in my build thread, to see how. And before you start building, be sure to join the Anovos Stormtrooper Kit Building Group on Facebook, and read the sticky post at the top, for a bunch of important information specific to this build (and a bunch relevant to any build). And then of course Ukswrath's build thread here on FISD (also linked in that sticky post). And mine is pretty handy.

I disagree that it makes anything hotter inside the helmet. It doesn't change airflow at all, and the outside is just as white and reflective as it was before painting. If anything, it makes things COOLER inside the helmet, because light radiating through thin plastic bring heat, and the black paint stops light from coming through. That's why I like it. (other than looks) Keeps things nice and dark inside the helmet, as it should be. I think PlastiDip is the most common option for painting. Doesn't flake off like paint can, and it's flexible. No issue gluing interior components directly to the finish (including velcro adhesive). Just have to be careful removing anything stuck in there hard so you don't peel up the finish! (it can be repainted if you do, of course, but that's a pain)

I don't have a direct answer to your question (I bought my Tandy snaps from Amazon), but I will point out that Tandy snaps are usually available for less on eBay (although be sure to choose a reliable seller!), and more importantly, those snaps go on sale several times per year for half price (Around $30 instead of the full $65 price). If you can wait, keep an eye out, and wait for the price to drop!

I'd go with a more rounded approach, to try to maintain more of the original shape, but some general trimming there is not uncommon, especially when needed for comfort.

Assuming it will fit, the general rule of thumb is to leave as much as possible. You definitely don't want to (can't?) take too much off the ridges at the top of the shins and bottom of the thighs. Top of the thighs is simply a matter of fit and visual appearance. Bottom of the shins return edge should come off entirely, of course.

This one: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/

Congrats again, and welcome! Be sure to post in the 501st access thread once you get your ID so you can get into the 501st areas.

The white paint is just for painting over the rivets (not snaps, rivets). Required for higher level approvals, but so easy it's recommended for all. The exact type doesn't really matter... I know a few guys who just used Liquid Paper!

Gotcha. Very interested to see how well it holds up under real world conditions.

E6000 can be found at JoAnn's Fabrics and Michael's Craft stores, many other hobby (and sewing) stores, as well as Amazon. And Walmart. And maybe Ace? (I've never seen it at Home Depot or Lowes, so maybe not a hardware store sort of thing) http://www.joann.com/e-6000-adhesive--3-3-4-oz/1090323.html#q=e6000&start=2 http://www.michaels.com/e6000-craft-adhesive/10192536.html#q=e6000&start=1 https://www.amazon.com/E6000®-Craft-Adhesive-3-7-oz/dp/B007TSYNG8/ http://www.walmart.com/ip/E6000-230022-Eclectic-3.7-Oz-Clear-Automotive-and-Industrial-Adhesive/20370963 I used two 3.7oz tubes on my build. Some people use a little more, others a little less. I'd start with two. (more if you can only get the smaller 2oz tubes of course) JoAnn's and Michaels tend to be the cheapest because of readily available coupons, if you buy locally. (online coupons are easy to get and find, both directly on their sites and at internet coupon sites)

Wow! I don't suppose you've trooped in it yet?

My belt is pretty tight (on purpose), but it doesn't budge a bit.

Better if they didn't say Tandy but the actual originals had the name of the snaps embossed on them in a surprisingly similar manner. They're all stamped "NEWEY". I'm 99.99999% sure that's not going to prevent any EIB approval.

So bizarre, I could swear I responded to this earlier. Those screws would likely work, but according to the research done in a couple of other threads, I believe the correct size screw is #6, not #4.

Oh, that's right, I keep forgetting I need to glue on those latex hand guards, too, for Centurion, in addition to the seam removal. Extremely simple, of course, since I bought the hand guards a loooong time ago! And thanks!

Those are the correct type, but I believe you want #6 and those are #4. Brass is technically accurate, instead of silver metal, although once they're painted you can't actually tell. To my knowledge, these are correct (other than the brass v. silver issue), and easily obtained at most hardware stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, etc.). Just cut them down to a better length (as you would need to with the brass ones):

Not much left to do at all. One "big" (not that big but still) thing remains, to use ABS paste and remove the additional seam from my side shims. I might tweak my helmet ears a little, just to reduce the gap, but that's not an essential task, just on the long term to-do list. Once I have the time and energy (work has been busy as well, leaving less than the usual enthusiasm for large messy projects in the evening) to erase that seam, get my kit nice and polished up, and set up the backdrop to do another photo session, I'll definitely submit for Centurion. Edit: Oh, and I need to glue the latex hand guards onto my black rubber gloves, but that's such a stupidly simple step it barely warrants mention.

Hmm. I used E6000 and Tandy Line 24 on Anovos, and didn't notice any warping. I'll have to take a closer look when I have time; perhaps there is a small amount that was unnoticed?