themaninthesuitcase

Hi welcome to the FISD. Florida is covered by the Florida Garrison: https://www.fl501st.com who I am sure will love to help you out. As for finding a kit this is a good place to start: Though sadly you may also want to check this: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/

Hi Daz, Welcome to the FISD, sounds like you're off to a decent start. You know the deal with a work in progress having done your Fett, but do keep us in the loop too! Chris.

I have now finished re-printing all the updated white parts that I will be using FDM for. There's a small handful I want to use resin for but means being in the mood for the fails and clean up! First change, location pins! I found this hinge part a bit awkward to align previously, and I also want to try and avoid glue on this if I can to allow for repairs to if needed. The pins are just off cuts of filament saved when changing rolls. The parts have a 1.8mm hole in them, it needs a small amount of cleaning with a drill bit to get a perfect fit. I also have these on the hengstler but those are to follow in black resin. Second change, orientation marks! I am also tempted to add a couple of location pins as there is a tiny amount of slop. I won't re-print though as the part this attaches to is a 7 hour print and would be a waste of filament as it's otherwise fine. Third change, hardware mounts for the holster bolts! Pictured with the wrong screws, and I will use nyloc nuts as well, this is just what M5 hardware was to hand. The screw size and spacing was checked with @R2Dan and should fit his aluminium holster when I eventually get round to ordering one. The idea here is to save having to mark up and drill out for the M5 screws when a nylock nut built into the part will be a far better solution, and hopefully stronger. The design has enough room for a nyloc nut and then the rest is a tight fitting hole so the screw is supported for as much of its length as possible. I also have a plan to make some real aluminium face plates "on a budget", I just need to get round to finishing them and ordering them. Finally, and just because organic support is cool, the main body of the blaster. This is the part I don't fancy reprinting just for the location pins. I will wait until I have the magazine mount printed before I glue anything to help ensure it all lines up. Next up is all the black FDM parts. Whilst I have a bunch from previous printing in a box, I noticed that the files changed between me first downloading them and what is current so I wanted to have a full set, the edited version I have been making are based on this updated version. I may end up building both at some point.

FAO @Sly11

Moved to rebels section

Is it too late to cancel the order, or maybe you can return it?

I just loaded up a TK kit on their website (https://www.rspropmasters.com) and going through the checkout process and the payment supplier is WorldPay, though PayPal is a 2nd option. Using PayPal as a payment provider is quite common, as it gives the option to use balance, standard card transactions and credit/pay in parts services. What you are describing doesn't sound like you are ordering via the website.

My armour isn't RS but it is ABS. My armour is yellowing, sadly a fact of life for ABS. So far I am into 100s of hours but in a mix of inside and out. It's not yellow yet, but it's certainly not the same colour it used to be, and some areas are worse than others. The more you wear it in the sun, the faster it yellows. The reversal process is generally known as "retrobright". There are commercial products, but you can use hair products to do it too. It's a chemical process, but simple to do. The 8 bit guy has some excellent videos on this if you're interested, mostly on computer cases, but the principle is the same. As well as PVC there is also Acrylic Capped ABS from some vendors. This puts a thin layer of gloss acrylic on the plastic for a whiter, wetter look. For me it's too glossy and white but some like it. Ultimately the yellowing is a break down of the ABS, visible in a colour change. Over time the UV damage not only makes it yellow but it will also go brittle eventually. You can fix the colour, but not the brittleness. That said by the time that is an issue it's going to have done a huge number of hours.

I don't own it but I've trooper with DA troopers more than once, it's more common for TIE, or it was before he moved to France. It's got it's features and tells like any armour but it's a solid mid pack pick. It was always more popular with non legion troopers for some reason I never worked out.

I ordered some new D-rings and have given it another go. This is a 32x16 with 3.5mm wire, though it was sold as 4mm. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332599616886?var=541707004666 I've taken a picture in roughly the same position as the reference above for comparison. I think it's probably still a tiny bit long and maybe a tiny bit thick but close enough for imperial work. That and ordering all these rings is adding up quickly! 32x12x3 is probably on the money. The way they attach is the same as before but I've made the gap a tiny bit wider so if I want I could add in a threaded insert. The ring looks some what off centre for some reason. I measured the error in my cut, and it's only 0.5mm off centre. So not sure why it looks so off, maybe it's just a case of the ring not being perfectly square or something. That said no one is going to notice this, worst case I file off 1mm and it will have 0.5mm slop each way. I cut this one with a Dremel and it gave a far cleaner cut than a hack saw, it was also faster and more accurate, the hack saw cut on the previous ring ended up a lot wider than I meant.

It looks like in the Netherlands it works the same there as here (UK). It will be the VAT and duty due on the total of the goods and the shipping costs. A quick google would suggest you would be liable for 21% for VAT, between 0 and 12% for duty depending on the category it's put down as. So as an example: €80 goods €20 shipping €100 subtotal €21 for VAT €0-12 for duty depending on what it's categorised as. Final total €121-133

Welcome to FISD. Before you spend out any money do spend your time to read through the getting started section first. If you have any questions we'll all be happy to answer them.

Good luck with your build!

Authentic gloves when it's cold. Authentic gloves when it's hot. Authentic gloves all the time.

Dan has now been added to the Hall of Eternal Legionnaires: https://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=290&t=112750&sid=416443c4d19f91fa7eabc6cd28c7ea3d The Funeral was last Wednesday 7th June, I documented this here:

I've used riveted in snaps for years now, though I'd probably use a single cap if I did it again for better accuracy. Pretty sure I based it on the Billigram Glen posted. The thing I really like is I can store my belt and holster separately between troops and it only takes seconds to join or split the 2 parts.

That helmet work is impressive. The fit looks amazing. Quite jealous of that resin print volume! The red seems like a reasonable decision. In some images it's quite bright others a bit more dull, I think you've split the difference well. Edit: How well does the paint match the pouldron? As in the renders they are the same colour. One thing I've noticed comparing the red is that there is some light weathering to the armour and the visor. Are you going for a "clean" version, sort of a factory fresh, or a closer to shown light weather?

I may be wrong but I believe it normally works the other way for "realised suits" based on movie start points. You take the movie CRL and adjust only what you can demonstrate to be different. This is remove stuff you can't tell either way because of some limitation such as graphics, or camera angles. Tbh for some items it's sort of academic, like you're not going to see shoulder seams under that pouldron. So unless you want to dual clear (please do and juice the the numbers a little) as a TFA it wouldn't overly matter. The gloves, can you even get white stitched at the moment? Doesn't seem like it's worth worrying about vs TFA. That is unless we are saying they *should* be white in which case we'd want to flip the CRL, so basic and probably EIB black sticking is okay but cor Centurion you'd need white. As for the rest, keeping in line with the TFA seems reasonable. Means you can't build something you then can't clear as a plain TFA if wanted, though in reality I expect most Guage builders would be starting from a cleared TFA and adding the visor, pouldron and so on. I do have some pragmatic thoughts on the gaskets for Centurion, the main one being there are few sellers and from what I understand horrible to wear.

I've hidden a number of posts on this thread. If you don't like the character, that's fine, but keep those opinions to your self.

Not a huge fan of the pouldron, but the helmet is interesting. CRL looks like a good start but I have some comments. You have a bit in the preamble about differences to TFA, maybe bring this in to the CRL text proper as "TFA based" to ensure that it's not missed. There are a few bits struck out. (formatting removed for clarity) Grooves on sides of chest should show clear separation. There are no visible seams on the back/yoke. Gaskets shall be made of rubber. Fabric gaskets are not acceptable. Forearm wrist box should be separate pieces, affixed to forearms. Forearm top plate is not attached at front of wrists. Glove palm must have black stitching. The seams between the abdominal armor and the 7 boxes should not be filled. Working lights and working front torch are required. Front handle must be movable. Generally I would expect the derivative CRL to follow the primary unless there is good evidence of these changes. I realise this is a video game so you can't prove things like the gasket materials, and resolution means you won't see stitching on gloves. I would just prefer to see some justification of the proposed changes. Looks like you've made a decent start to the build.

Welcome back to the FISD. Where abouts in the uk are you now?

Love seeing the effort going into this! Can't wait for the build.

Given the nature of the issues and details involved: no. I was one of the staff who investigated and I can only say to you I was as through as I could be and it was corroborated by other staff. We are confident in our decision and stand by it.

It wasn't a vacuum. Detachments where asked to "bid" for the new CRL. We, as staff, put together our case and justification which the Detachment Leader presented to a Legion committee. I am aware of at least 1 other detachment that did the same. After going to the Legion our case was deemed better so we got the CRL. This would require both detachments to agree, and I believe all active members of that costume to agree. Which is probably unlikely. @Sly11 will be more aware of what would need to happen.

I also have mine mounted in the chest, in one of the peck sections. It's held on with 2 small strips of velcro, never had an issue with it coming loose.