The other option is to find an acceptable Chelsea boot and paint them, which as Joseph is so fond of saying, is completely screen accurate as that is how they were done. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
I think a lighter shade of grey would suffice. Hand painting that with your testors would be a pain unless you're airbrushing. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
Any time Alex. Remember our happy slogan troopers helping troopers. Community support is important and being able to ask questions from those with experience is priceless. Sharing what we know with those that don't yet is paramount to having each one of us looking our best with the work and time we invest in our build. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk
But don't forget to taper them. Your body is not cylindrical, but rather conical. So the top of your thigh is larger than your lower thigh and so on. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk
That is what I did. I put it all together and then decided to trim them out. Which if you're concerned about it for accuracy it is totally screen accurate. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk
There's been a lot of debating and been dubbed "shingate" due to the split in it. Mine are to the outside and are okay. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk
Hahahaha! No worries about that. I will only say I thought the same and was surprised to find I'm 99% good for Centurion. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
Like Glen said they're not required for basic, but we do like to see troopers go for the higher levels. It is totally an option and up to you though. My kit, an Anovos, came as you see them above. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
Depending on your GML they might pass for basic approval, but I would suggest looking elsewhere. It would be the seams that would would keep you from being approved. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
He wasn't told he couldn't, he is choosing not to on this build. I would suggest building for Centurion even if you don't apply for it. It is easier to build for it than to make the changes later. So far as the velcro it sounds like he was just adding a layer of E-6000 to the sticky parts of the velcro. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
Hi Alex to answer your question those ridges should be trimmed to 7.5mm to accommodate the 15mm strip. So measuring from the edge of the ridge to the outside. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
Great to see you getting started Stacey. Just a reminder though, when using e-6000 make sure to roughen up both pieces you are gluing to give it bite for a solid bond.
Hahahaha! Yeah I keep strange hours. Yeah the hard edges can be softened with some fine grit sandpaper, but I don't think it matters for the button plates. The only thing that I can say here is that you don't want too much extra on them. It really comes down to your GML and the DO team there. Like I said though it seems good to go. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
Hey Dave welcome and congrats on finally starting. The re-shaping might be better with the heat gun at that thickness, but the hot water bath is less risky and you can subtly shape it. So far as the trim lines go don't eyeball, measure them. A lot of the kits don't have premade trim lines. So be sure to look at the CRL and other builds of your kit that will help you.