Rat

Yeah that is it for me I won't be repainting any more of it. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Ended up with this after I pulled it. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Yeah I think it was easier to make the belt a kit then to make the bucket change from stunt to hero. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

I think that is enough decal removal for now. Now for the paint. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

I was really happy that they stopped building the belts and shipped them in kit form. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Time for more upgrades I think. Removing the Anovos decals and repainting. These decals are a pain to remove and they seem to be textured. One side down one to go. Then it will be on to other parts, tear traps and so forth. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Nope they just sit on the top of the boots. Some add snaps or velcro if they have a problem with them trying to ride up though. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Did they glue the inside as well? I mean do I need to completely disassemble the bucket for the removal? Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

So I'm at a point where I'm preparing to apply for my Centurion badge. Having an Anovos kit I need to do a bit of bucket paint. I have tube stripe templates courtesy of Joseph. However Anovos really enjoyed gluing all of rubber trim/seals. I figure if I am redoing the tube stripes I may as well do it all, but as the title says they like to glue and for me to be able to paint the brow boxes I need to remove the trim that is glued down. So any tips on removing it or getting the trim up without tearing or stretching it? Thanks in advance. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Ah, well it looks like it coming along well. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Hey Taylor do you have a photo of the glued cover strip? I'm mostly curious about what you mean about sitting weird. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Oh well that is a happy coincidence and I suppose you're welcome. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

I haven't removed the rear upper shin return edge, but I did remove the lower rear thigh return edge. I also had to remove my top thigh return edge due to having to shorten them a bit. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Also if the tightness is in the upper thigh area you can completely remove the return edge there and it is still accurate. I don't have a photo of the screen used armor to show you, but I'm sure Glen or Joseph or one of the others will plop one in for a reference. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

That is good news and sounds like it will make it a bit more comfortable. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

The only thing I can comment on is that it seems sort of light. Like it isn't dark enough. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Indeed brother. I'll be doing a couple next month if you come up for them. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Sort of sad that it has come to that, but understandable Jim.

Many people do this during their builds. I don't remember who it was, but they had a couple of 3 ring binders they used. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Hahahaha! As it should be Lorelei. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Looks good Ron. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

I'd say it looks good where you have your lines, but I'm not familiar with the trimming of the depth of that part. The eyes and teeth look good though. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Yes drilling first does help. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

You can attach them using webbing and snaps as well from what I understand as it is an area that doesn't get seen by the public. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

That is sad about TKboots that's what I have and love them so far. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk