justjoseph63

As do I, (just not in armor, lol).

I'm surprised you don't have this in your arsenal yet, Glen! If anyone can build one, I'm thinking it's you. (You FOTKs get ALL the cool toys!

Looks like you are good to go, Thomas.

That's up to you. I designed these to flex a LOT and contour to the gloves more than the regular latex type.. this way the sides don't pop up. Just make sure you don't add any E-6000 past the cloth part on the underside.

Like my grandfather used to say, "If it's not broken, don't fix it"! Be sure to keep us informed on your approval!

It looks (to me at least) that the chest and back have been trimmed down for someone who is much shorter since the return edges at the bottoms appear to have been removed completely (like they were for Luke). Unless you are over 6 foot there ideally should be a smaller gap between the bottom of the bucket and the scoop at the top of the chest piece. same with the top of the back plate. Do you have padding in the top of the bucket? It looks like removing it would solve that issue and allow it to ride lower. Sometimes extending the chest/back strapping will allow it to drop a bit more in the back, but your shoulder bridges are pretty short as it is. I find it kind of odd that the rest of the armor actually fits pretty well. You have a few other issues that can be fairly straightforward to fix. I hate to say it, but whoever built this armor mismatched the calves. The outside pieces have been glued together (right leg) and the inside pieces are on the left leg. This accounts for the difference in size. The rear cover strip on the right one is also on the wrong side, and the opening should be on the inside, just as the left one is. The holster strap is the Hero type, and has 4 fasteners instead of 2 as required for Stunt. There is a rivet in the sniper knee plate on the ridge as seen in ROTJ armor. Don't get discouraged, James. You have some work to do, and you may even have to replace the chest and back, but we will help out whenever we can, so hang in there.

Welcome to the FISD, Edgar! Jim and Mario are spot-on with that advice....always feel free to ask here if you have any questions regarding a particular seller, and you will get honest feedback. Choosing your armorer is the most important (and costly) investment you will make, so it's better to ask than to guess. We are here to help you from step one until your eventual 501st approval, so never be shy about asking for advice... it's what we do!

It's just my opinion, but I would hold off on reducing the calves for now. You may want to reduce the angle of the thigh ammo pack a bit, but the spacing between the bottom of the thighs and the top of the calf looks ideal to me.

Looking good, sir! If I could suggest something, it would be to raise your belt in the front and back. As seen in your previous fitting, you don't seem to have an issue with the posterior plate riding out, so raising it would look much better. Ideally, the bottom of the canvas belt should sit right at or just above the top of the posterior plate.

Have you tried imgur? If you have, and managed to get your photo onto their site, scroll over the image, which will surround it with a green box. Left click, and it will bring you to a page with options. Left click Copy next to Direct Link, and then paste in your post.

NICE job on trimming those return edges, sir! I hate to be a stickler (can't help it, lol) but you may want to take some sandpaper to the top portion (blue line). There is also one tiny indentation (red arrow) toward the upper part where this is especially important. Even a tiny nick like this can lead to a split, but it's easily fixed. Looking forward to seeing your pre-submission photos!

Not sure about the quality of the Corsairs boots, but they look pretty darned nice. At $110.00 they are a little more expensive than Imperial boots at $80.00. I have owned 2 pairs of IB boots for years and they have held up great. They run a bit small, though, so if you go with them be sure to order a half size larger than what you normally wear, and a full size if you wear inserts.

Ideally, the above requested photos should have been posted in your EI submission as well. There are no close-up images of the front of the helmet, and the side views could be a little closer. Since Centurion is the top level of approval, it's important for us to see all the details possible on both the bucket, the armor and how it fits. As mentioned in your EI approval under Centurion Requirements, "More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustment". For Level 3, re-using the same photos from your Level 2 submission is fine for certain items, but we normally ask that all new pics be taken, especially for those areas that required changes/alterations. Having the person taking your pics fill the frame instead of taking them from a distance will help immensely! You put a lot of work into this build, Katie, and those future Capt. Phasmas will be looking to your approvals as a benchmark, so we want to make sure everything looks great!

Welcome, Jake! Some great advice so far. If I could throw in my 2 credit's worth, AM is a fantastic set of armor. My Stunt and HWT are from them, and after years of trooping no cracks, splits or yellowing, and Dave is GREAT to deal with! As for "having to put it all together" that is where we come in. Many (if not most) folks here had no experience building a costume like this, but with our help you can do it, I promise. You don't need a workshop, just some spare room and the correct tools. When you receive your kit, just start a build thread here. That way, you can ask all the questions you like (no limit, lol), post up pics of your progress and any issues you may come across. It may seem daunting, but with some time and patience we will help you achieve your dream of becoming a shiny white spaceman!

If you haven't added the snaps to hold the belt in place yet, I would suggest raising it a bit in the front, which will give it a more horizontal look from the side(s). The top of the ABS belt should sit just at (or a little above) the lower button. One thing I noticed is that your chest plate is developing a crack on the return edge. I would jump on this right away by shimming it with a scrap of ABS in the rear, as it will only get worse and will eventually extend into the plate itself. This thread may help with more info.

The AP belt and holster will get you all the way to level 3, Chris, so no worries there.

I found that this product really helped. Some serious sanding with 100 grit, then a few light coats, then more sanding, more coats until I got down to 320 grit. Came out smooth as silk. One thing that will come in VERY handy is silicone sanding sheets. You can bend, twist and do what you like to it and it will not tear. It's a bit pricier than regular sandpaper, but well worth it. To find it just Google 3M Sandblaster Ultra Flexible Sanding Sheets. I used just one sheet to do an entire TK build and a blaster build and it's still good.

Awesome to hear, Dave! (Every Hero should have a DLT-19)! When you start your thread, post up some photos of the various parts and we can let you know what goes where. If the 3D parts have print lines, they are a LOT easier to fill/sand down before gluing (trust me). I have built several, so PM me when you get the thread started and I can follow it.

Hi Katie! As with any other Centurion submission, there are certain photos required. The Captain Phasma is slightly different, as there is a cape present which can cover some of the areas we need to see, so we are asking that you post up the following without the cape so that your awesome kit can be better reviewed. Thank you!!! 1. Full armor, arms flat against sides facing front. 2. Full armor, arms flat against sides facing rear. 3. Full armor, arms at side front upper torso detail. 4. Full armor, left side view arms raised. 5. Full armor, right side view arms raised. 6. Front/back/side close-ups of helmet. 7. Full view and detail of cape (blue box) as seen in photo 1. Also, when taking the first 5 photos listed above, please try to fill the frame so that we can better see those fantastic details you worked so hard on!

Glen is 100% correct on this, Jim. As per the CRL for Basic approval, armor parts must be made from White fiberglass, ABS, HIPS or PVC. Are you having issues with yours?

I completely understand your point about the weathering, brother, believe me. However, the amount (not the color) of the weathering you have is much closer to what a Sandie would have, which is why there is a concern. You may have seen this amount on those at Basic level, but for L2 and above it has to be toned down. To give you an example, below is a recently EI approved HWT trooper who was asked to do the same thing, (and he had less weathering than you do). I have included 3 other examples of EI approved HWTs as well. Note the minimal scuffs/marks. Before After I hope you take this into consideration and if you have any questions, just ask. Best of luck on your Basic approval, sir!

First, I can assure you that no one will be disgusted because you want to buy a completed (pre-built) set of armor. Many folks do not have the time (or space) to build their own, so this is a nice option that some sellers offer. However, all of us were nervous on our first build! It's a significant investment for sure, but with the help of others here on the FISD we made it. In many cases, those that make mistakes either try to rush through their build or don't ask questions before cutting/gluing. Whether you decide to opt for the commission set or decide to build your own we are here to assist you in your white armor journey with whatever you need.

@T-Jay is spot on about the blasters. I have built several using the Doopydoos resin kit from the UK, and they can definitely take some time. The good thing about those is that, being resin-cast, the amount of sanding/prep is about 95% less than doing a 3D print one. They are also extremely accurate, especially if you want to go for the details. He may be shy about mentioning it, but Tino provides a FANTASTIC E-11 finishing kit to go to the next levels of realism. I've used them a few times, and the difference is amazing! This thread may also help.

Hi Ardeshir! I assume you are looking for Basic approval for your HWT, but this must be done through your local GML. If you are looking for EI approval, you need to have it approved at Level 1 first. The build is obviously top notch, and that DLT-19 is magnificent, but if I could make a suggestion it would be to tone down the weathering quite a bit. As per the CRL (for level 2 and above) the costume should be "lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper". While the amount of black you have looks cool, the costume is based on video games, which have a minimal amount. With this particular TK, "less is more". You can look over some of the HWT EI submissions as examples, and here are a few game images which will give you a better idea of what I mean.

You can also use PayPal, which will automatically convert U.S. dollars to English pounds. It may also be less expensive.