justjoseph63

While we always appreciate your input, it appears that you think the entire staff is against this issue, which is simply not true. We are well aware that different armors have their own unique nuances, and that these differences are a fact of life. Most of us accept them and make allowances, and for what it's worth I feel as you do that it's much more important to have the knee plate angle as you suggest rather than having the gap at the bottom and have it angle inward. For instance, even though the inside angle is off (photo) the outside angle is perfect. Would I pass this at EI and Centurion? Absolutely without hesitation (although I would ask that the top be trimmed a bit).

Welcome to the true home of shiny white armor, Clint! You have some research ahead of you, and we have a ton of information here. It may look a bit intimidating, but we are here to help every step of the way so always feel free to ask any questions you may have, and thanks for your service in the ER for the kids!

Yikes. I would suggest posting something up on your Garrison boards explaining what you need, as there may be someone who has some they can supply you with. (Acetone, not meth, lol). Are you looking to make it to fill the gap in the lower ridge of your thigh? If so, the gap is not that wide and you can use white E-6000. Just tape up all the edges carefully (remember, it's runny) and don't over-fill the space.

@T-Jay is 100% correct, John. They make a fantastic product, but they are horrible at communication. Even after you buy one, be prepared to wait a month (or more) for delivery, sad to say. I suggest going to their page that lists the item here and then adding your email address in the box on the top right of the page (example below). They will (eventually) send you a notification, but it's VERY important that you order it immediately. I waited one day for my second one and they were sold out again... it's just that fast.

I would not suggest trying it. Acetone is your best bet, but it needs to be the pure type (like you find in a paint or hardware store). Nail polish remover also has acetone, but it is not strong enough to melt ABS.

I have used Plasti-Dip spray on all my buckets (including my Tusken Raider) and LOVE it! In addition to Chemi's notes, here are a few of my suggestions: 1. Before applying it, sand down as much of the surface as you can with 120 grit sandpaper. This will give the product a better surface to adhere to**. 2. Clean it thoroughly afterward with alcohol and let it dry. 3. Do this outdoors, and I strongly suggest wearing a respirator or at least a decent mask. This stuff is pretty foul smelling, but has no odor when completely cured (think several days). ** This is really important. Since the inside of the bucket normally has a gloss finish, roughing it up will help prevent it from peeling off in the future. This is especially important when you go to install components like fans, battery packs, etc. using Velcro. If the Plasti-Dip does not have a surface it can grip to, whatever you attache to it can cause it to pull away from the original surface. (Trust me).

Oh yeah, sad to say. The genuine product is clearly marked Made in the USA, and has a batch number on each tube (see photo below). They do not sell to distributors in Asia, so if you order it from a seller based there it is not the real stuff. If you have any doubts, you can contact the manufacturer at www.eclecticproducts.com, and they will let you know where to get it. The fake stuff is garbage,

Looks GREAT, Nadas! This is the first pack I've seen from Dave since he took over from Shawn (CrookKnight), and I gotta say I am well impressed! One step closer to HWT, sir.

You can't go wrong by following one of Tony's builds, Dax. As for the E-11, they are not required at Basic approval but if you are aiming for higher levels of accuracy (Expert Infantry and Centurion) it will need a few mods. 1. It will need 2 cylinders on top of the magazine housing as seen below. 2. It will need a replica (real ones are crazy expensive) Hengstler counter. 1. A charging handle will be needed. This is an old reference image, so it would need to have the original look, unlike this example. 2. The ejection port guard is missing. 3. The flash guard is missing. Most of the parts can be either purchased online or made. If I can be of any help, just let me know!

Welcome to the home of shiny white armor, Paul! You will be more than pleased with Dave's AM armor. My Stunt and HWT are from AM and have held up fantastic even after years of trooping, with no cracks, splits or yellowing and great customer service to boot! Once you get your armor you will need to get Basic 501st approval. To help you nail it the first time around we have a thread where you can submit for "pre-approval" before submitting to your GML. I've seen Dave's builds, and he does them to Centurion level right out of the box, but just in case there are any small issues we can help you. A link to the pre-approval info. can be found here, and I look forward to seeing it!

Some excellent advice from @TKSpartan there, Scott. If you can get her to volunteer as a handler, she can meet the folks in your Garrison and see just how much fun we have as well as see the smiles we put on people's faces. Binge watching the entire SW series couldn't hurt either.

The left one is sitting a little lower than the right one, and both could come up more. Raising them would also allow you to bring the bottoms in closer together so that the rear cover strip doesn't have such a wide area to cover.

Welcome to the FISD, Dax! Always great to see a future Carolina Garrison member, and I'm looking forward to watching your build thread! Just remember... ask questions, post lots of photos (especially if you have an issue) and have fun with your build. If you get nervous about a particular item, just post up a few pics of the issue before cutting or gluing and we will steer you in the right direction, I promise.

Hi Scott, and fantastic to hear that you are about to pull the trigger on an AP kit! Yeah, I had the mid-life crisis thing as well, but better late than never, lol. Great to know that you have started your research, but also know that we are here to assist you at every turn. It's kinda' what we do best! As I mention to all those about to embark on a white armor journey, starting your own build thread here will really, really help you. You can post photos of not only your progress, but of any issues you may have, ask as many questions as you want, and show off your build!

Battle damage, lol. The tops of the biceps are just... well... amazing! Fantastic to see that you rounded off those corners, Shane. I see that you haven't removed too much of the "scoop" on the top of your forearm, but no biggie. Some troopers have no issues with armor bite there, but you have them fitted in a way that if you do need to remove more in the future you are in good shape. Gotta' say that this is one of the best build threads I have seen in a long, long time. Keep it up!

Down to 36. Congratulations to our newest EI, darthcue. Way to go Ted!!

Hi Ted, and thank you for your EI submission! In the following review I will be going over items pertaining to your current submission, as well as those that will be required for Centurion level should you choose to apply. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of Sha Sha and myself, Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. First, THANKS for the fast fixes on the trap paint, kapatid ko. (Nice job, by the way)! We are suggesting that (if possible) you line the ears up a little better, sir. Ideally, the ear screws should line up with the rear angle of the trap above them. The top two on the right are pretty close, but the bottom sits a lot farther back than the left. The entire left one could come forward a centimeter or thereabouts, and you may have to remove one or two tube stripes so that the ear doesn't cover them. Reference images Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than those for Expert Infantry, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. As per the CRLs for Level 3, there should be "...a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates". You have quite large spaces in those areas which would unfortunately not meet that requirement at this time. The tops of the shoulder bells should also ideally touch the ABS shoulder bridge. Reference image It looks to me that the sides of the bells supplied with the SE kit are a lot more narrow than most other makers, or that they may have been over-trimmed and will need to be replaced, sad to say. Reference image Reference images Although the left ab/kidney connection is perfect, the CRL also states that there should be "... no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor". The gap you have is minimal, and could probably be eliminated by tightening up the connection. Reference images The ABS belt will need to come up about 1.5 cm (2 would be better) to where the top covers the bottom of the ab-button plates. Reference images It may be the camera angle, but the ridge at the bottom of the the left front thigh looks to have a small gap. A piece of scrap ABS behind this would be good or better yet you cold fill the gap with ABS paste. Reference image Last up, (another easy fix here) the paint on the outside rivet on your ammo pack needs a paint touch-up. Reference images And that's it! You did a really nice job on this set of armor, Ted, and you should be proud! Although the shoulder bells are the main issue, the rest of the items should be pretty easy to address, and I really hope you can get these taken care of so that we can see that Centurion application soon. I know we can't troop right now, but the next time you do it will be as a member of the Expert Infantry!

Any updates on this, Cameron? If you need help just let us know, and I look forward to seeing the new photos!

Hi Robert, and Thank You for your submission for Centurion level (and your patience)! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Centurion! On behalf of Sha Sha and myself, congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we discuss areas that could benefit from additional improvement. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions Not a lot to say here, brother... You did an outstanding job on re-painting those traps/ear bars and fantastic work on those drop box fixes! Know that it's always a pleasure for Sha Sha and I to see when someone steps up to plate like this and goes the extra mile to reach level 3. We really do appreciate it. The main issue we were having is that while the gaps between the shoulder bells and chest/back plates look great, the tops of the bells are a little farther from the shoulder bridge than we normally like to see. HOWEVER, we understand that troopers come in all shapes and sizes, and after looking into the matter with multiple PMs and additional photos, we have decided that you honestly did all you could to address the issue so we are happy to welcome you to Level 3! Although you can't troop just yet due to what is going on the world, once you can you will be representing the Japanese Garrison, The FISD and the 501st proudly as it's newest Centurion level TK. Well done, sir!

Definitely round out those pointed areas, Thomas. Areas like that with a sharp angle are prime points to eventually cause a split/crack. From a comfort standpoint you can also remove most of the return edge around the cod tab. Having an excess there can lead to chafing.. Ouch.

Painting Using Templates We tend to see a lot of folks who want to use paint instead of decals on their helmets, but sometimes they just don't turn out as planned. The main issue folks have is that the paint bleeds into the sides of the template, leaving small streaks on the sides which can look awful. The following is my preferred method, which has had pretty darned good results in the past. Will they turn out 100% perfect? Not always, but I have the remedy for that at the bottom of the post. For the purpose of this tutorial I am using blue painter's tape in lieu of a decal just to show the basics. What you will need: 1. Craft (popsicle) stick- This is to stir the paint. Do NOT shake the bottles... this causes bubbles. 2. Pencil with a flat rubber eraser. 3. Paintbrush- Use the best quality, softest bristle type you can. Cheap stiff bristle brushes will leave lines. 4. Paint. For this example I am using French Blue (as used on the tube stripes) and white. 5. Paper towels. Step 1- Use the flat end of the eraser to make sure the edges are pushed down as much as possible and remove any bubbles in the decal. Do this gently, otherwise you may peel up the edges instead of flattening them. Step 2- Using the craft stick, mix the paint thoroughly. Wipe off the end with a paper towel and set aside. Step 3- Starting at the top corner (either side) add a light coat of white paint. (Yes, white). Go from side to side all the way down to the bottom. Do NOT go too heavy, just enough to cover. Let this dry at least half an hour. Step 4- Repeat the same process with the white but go from corner to corner over the entire area. Let this dry completely. (An hour or so at least). NOTE: The reason for the white paint is that it will fill/seal any tiny spaces/gaps on the edges of the template. Step 5- After mixing the blue paint with the other end of the craft stick, using up and down strokes add a thin(ish) layer of the blue. Don't go heavy and try to do it in one shot. Trust me. Let this dry completely (at least an hour or 2). Step 6- Repeat step 5. Allow to dry at LEAST 2-3 hours or more, depending on humidity. If you press your finger on the paint and see your fingerprint in the paint, it's not completely dry. Be patient. Step 7- Time for the reveal!- Slowly (and by slowly I mean sloooooooooowly) remove the decal from top to bottom (in the same direction as the lines). Because I used masking tape the lines aren't as crisp and clean as you would get with a proper template, but you get the idea. One of the reasons for an imperfect line is that you must wait until the paint is positively, 100% dry before removing the decal. FIXING LINES If you have some bleed-through, or need to remove paint around the teeth for instance this is what to do: You will need: 1. Paint remover- I always use Goo-Gone, as it contains no chemicals that will damage the finish (like acetone based removers can). It really works great and has no chemical smell. 2. Another craft stick shaved at one end. A wooden toothpick will also work, but I like wider edge of the craft stick, 3. Cotton swabs 4. Paper towels. Let's start with this mess (done on purpose). Step 1- Dip the end of the tick in the remover and gently go side to side along the edge(s). Take-your-time. Step 2- Get the line as straight as you can. You can always touch it up with more blue paint if needed. Step 3- Remove any blue haze with the swab(s) dipped in the paint remover. Done! There are more ways to do this, so if you have any suggestions or questions, post em up!

Looking fantastic, Shane! I realize that you haven't started on the strapping yet, and the areas mentioned below will take care of those. You are definitely on the fast track for Centurion, sir! These would be my suggestions: 1. Having everything level/symmetrical is important for an ideal look. The bottoms of the bells and wrist openings are presently at a different heights, but no biggie, as once you install the straps you should be golden. I would definitely suggest making sure the tops of the bells touch (or are VERY close to) the ABS shoulder bridges. This will also bring them in closer to the chest and back plates. 2. The gap in the back/kidney connection should be reduced. This should be a matter of just dropping the back plate down a little. It's great that you haven't done the white shoulder elastic yet, as that will make it much easier. 3. The rear closures on your calf pieces need some tweaking. The yellow boxes are where the cover strips should go. It appears that you have plenty of wiggle room on the left one, and the right one may just need to be lined up. Keep up the great work, and keep those photos coming!

Before you glue anything, I would make sure that the rear ridges are level by either bringing the right side down or the left side up (same difference). It also looks like the side of the thigh ammo box is higher on the outside (yellow arrow). I see that you lined up the center ammo box with the cover strip. Note that while it may give a sleeker look, this is not a requirement at any level, as many of the ones in the films were off kilter a bit (bottom reference images). More importantly is that the ends of the tabs line up evenly on both sides of the bottom ridge and be equally spaced from the "corner" of the rear ridge.

Looking great, Shane! Speaking of snags, you may want to round off the tops of the biceps.

How do they fit, Brad? Imperial boots are fantastic, but they tend to run a bit on the small side so I always suggest ordering a half to full size larger than you normally wear. I also recommend getting a set of shoe trees. Over time, the moisture from sweating can cause the leather to shrink, and those will ensure they stay the correct size.