justjoseph63

Hi Gaines, and thanks for your submission! One of us will be with you shortly, but before we "move along" there are 2 items we need you to take care of, the first being to remove a bit of the paint at the top of the teeth as shown below. As per the CRL for Basic approval, "Frown is gray and does not leave the teeth area". Most are perfect, it's just the tops of the three shown below. 10 minutes with some mineral spirits and a toothpick should get you where you need to be.... easy fix! (Check the bottoms of the teeth as well). Reference images Please also include a close-up of the ab-plate detail like this one: (no need to get suited up). Since this armor can definitely get you to Centurion, while you have the mineral spirits out for the teeth you should go ahead and remove the paint from the following to get ready for Level 3: The "Han" snap cannot be painted. Reference images "Snaps are silver in color... and are not painted". Reference images There are a few other issues for level 3 (but nothing you can't take care of pretty easily) and we look forward to seeing the updated pics!

Looking good, William, and Sha Sha will be with your shortly! As Glen mentioned, the drop boxes are still wandering a little and need some more alignment. Easy fix! Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt These pics are from your current submission Because a close-up was not visible in your EI submission this item was not seen, but as per the CRL for Level 3 the return edges in the "hump" area will need to be trimmed out. 4 minutes with a Dremel should do the trick! No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. To completely eliminate the gap between the ab/kidney it looks as if you have room to tighten your belt a bit. Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor Almost there, sir!!

Welcome to the FISD, Andy, and glad to have you aboard! Yeah, we are all waiting for various bans to be lifted so that we can get out and eventually put some smiles on long-awaiting faces, but in the mean-time we can help those who are also stuck at home and just starting out on their white armor journey. There are a lot of future troopers who may be under some sort of quarantine but still need some advice and guidance to finish their armor. This is where folks like you can offer not only that advice but encouragement as well.

Now that the contest is over (in record time, I might add) here is some trivia about Mr. Muir. For those of you who may not know, he** designed and sculpted the molds for the original armor for Stormtroopers (based on the Ralph McQuarrie design) that we all wear. Although Liz Moore designed the helmet, he was the one who created the rest of the costume! More info on this talented guy can be found here. ** Despite what you may have read from a certain armorer.

Welkom bij de FISD, Domingo! Er valt hier veel informatie te leren, maar we zijn hier om u te helpen bij elke stap op uw reis om een Stormtrooper te worden! Voel je vrij om al vragen te stellen! (Mijn Nederlands is verschrikkelijk, vergeef me alsjeblieft, lol).

You are definitely on the right track, but the top of the round part should be lowered a bit to where it aligns with the ridge. You may need to take a hair off the areas as seen in the second photo to lower them and move them forward a tad. As I mentioned, don't worry too much about the gaps. Looks GREAT! NICE job!

Please PM me your complete shipping info. and I will have that in the mail tomorrow!

And we have a winner! (This has got to be the fastest contest ever, lol). Congrats, Jayke!!

Okay Troopers, time for a super-quick contest! All you have to do for this one is identify the person in the photo below. (Hint: He has a connection to Star Wars). The first person to post up with the correct name wins a cool official 3" x 17 " (7.5 cm x 43 cm) 501st Legion decal which you can put on your bin or car. Open to all Troopers world-wide except Command / Extended Staff (Attaches).

In your Gallery, click on the center area of the pic you wish to post, which will bring you to the area as seen below. 1. LEFT click on Copy next to Direct Link. 2. Paste into your post or thread.

It looks like you will need to trim the bottom rear of the cap at some point in order to get the S-trim to sit correctly and cover the seam. Do this a little at a time until you get close, and post up some more pics if you have any issues!

WOW! Nice job on those shims, mi hermano!

Never be sorry about asking questions, Thomas, and I applaud you for wanting to "get it right"! That looks pretty darned good, and the ears will cover those seams on the side. When doing the ears, remember that they don't have to be perfectly flat against the helmet on all sides (Heaven knows the originals weren't). When you start trimming just do a small amount at a time until you get them close, and post up pics of your progress. Placement is key, though. As seen in the reference images below, the top of the round part should sit at the center of the rear of the trap, and the screws should line up with the angle of it.

Welcome, Gretchen! You are in the right place for sure, and GREAT to see that you started your own build thread! My advice would be to take your time, and as others have mentioned ask lots of questions. If you run into an issue, be sure to post up photos before moving ahead. You have a LOT of folks here ready and willing to help you through any problems you have (and offer encouragement) so don't be shy. I have a few tutorials below that will help, especially this one, and I look forward to seeing your progress!

Really nice job on those fixes, Jose! Sha Sha will be with you shortly, but could you post up 2 extra photos while you wait? We need clear close-ups of the areas shown below (no need to get suited up). Thanks!!

Although it's possible, making an item using someone else's design (in this case the hand guards) is considered "re-casting", which is generally frowned upon. However, since it is for personal use what I would suggest is to get in touch with the person who made the armor and ask permission.

Doopydoos sells 2 types of kits, one for upgrading Hasbro blasters and one to build a complete one. Hasbro upgrade kit- https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e11-hasbro-blaster-conversion-skin-kit-mk2-2636-p.asp Complete E-11 kit- https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp The complete kit is often out of stock, but you can ask to be notified when it is back in stock. If you decide to order one of these, do it immediately when they notify you, as they disappear very quickly!

Great news! It is truly fantastic the way you have prepared for this build, Chris. Which piece(s) you choose to start with will be up to you, but to get a feel for things I suggest starting with the biceps. I am looking forward to seeing your progress, and hopefully a ton of photos! Just remember the old saying "measure twice (or 3-4 times), cut once" and if you run into an issue, ask and post up a pic before proceeding. We are here to help, sir.

Don't forget to request one of these.. you earned it! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40769-request-your-eib-certificate-here/

Hi Jonas, and thank you for your EI submission! In the following review I will be going over items pertaining to your current submission, as well as those that will be required for Centurion level should you choose to apply. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of Sha Sha and myself, Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. First, I gotta' say that you really put a lot of hard work into this "re-build", brother, and it shows... great job! Only two suggestions in this area, which I am sure you can handle: Although they are crisp and clean, we would like to see the lines on the vocoder extended up a bit to where they cover the tops of the "ribs". Easy fix! Reference images The end of the clip shown below on your TD could (should) be trimmed a hair. Reference image Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than those for Expert Infantry, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. The first two items are simple strapping issues that I am sure will be pretty straightforward. It looks like your right shoulder bell could come up a bit. Bringing the top to where it touches the shoulder bridge (the right one is PERFECT) would remedy this. It would also reduce the gap between your bell and chest. Reference image We are suggesting that you drop the left bicep down a bit to even them out. You may want to check the forearm/bicep gaps afterward. Ideally they should be identical on both sides. Reference images As you know, because SDS has the attached buttons the plates will need to be replaced with ones that have the buttons integrated. TB sells those here if it helps. NICE job on trimming the one you have, (I appreciate the fact that you have the corners square, not rounded) but on the next round remember to trim the small plate a bit more. Reference image This will be an easy one! The angle on the tops of each side of the sniper knee plate should be increased as shown in the Reference images. 5 minutes with a Dremel or ABS scissors and you are good-to-go! Reference images Lastly, you did a an awesome job on that blaster but we are requesting that you move the Hengstler counter forward. Ideally, the back edge should line up with bolt that holds the folding stock on at the rear. Since there are usually only 2 screws that are used to attach it to the scope rail, this is another pretty simple fix. Reference images And that's it, sir! After following your build thread for so long, it really does make me happy to see that you have reached Level 2. Once you get the new ab-button plates and spend some time with those fixes I expect to see that Centurion submission! Hopefully you will be able to get out and troop soon as the newest EI in the Nordic Garrison!

Bucket position looks MUCH better, Roy, and great job on addressing those corrections!

Looks good, Thomas... nice work! Just remember when you eventually paint them not to take the paint beyond the actual teeth.

Looking sharp, Roy! You are in good hands with Sha Sha, but I have a quick question... You didn't mention how tall you are, but do you have padding in the top of your bucket? The reason I ask is because it sits pretty high, and there is skin visble (and the white inside of the helmet) in a few of the photos. Not the biggest of deals, but if you do have padding, I would remove it to lower it a bit. If you don't, a balaclava would eliminate the skin showing.

With all that's going on in the world, many of us are staying at home and wondering what to do to keep our sanity, lol. Here are a few suggestions that will help you get ahead so that when it's time to troop after all this you will be prepared. 1. Break out the armor bin- Since most of us only see our armor during a troop, maintenance issues can be forgotten, "I'll fix that later....". Well, it's later. Taking out each piece and examining it for cracks, loose straps, scratches, etc. will put you ahead of the game. 2. Line your armor bin- If you have access to a fabric store or even Walmart (many are still open) consider picking up some 1 inch thick foam sheets and spray glue to line the inside of your bin. This will help prevent it from jangling around during transport. 3. Clean your armor- On many troops, we sweat. Although the under suit absorbs most of it, the ABS can really start to reek over time, especially if not wiped down after an event. To help keep your bin and from smelling like a gym locker, grab some disinfecting wipes (or even plain old soap and water) and give the inside and outside a good cleaning. While your'e at it, air out your boots and gloves. 4. Organize- Once you get everything clean and ready, organize and pack everything away in preparation for your next troop. This way you will be ready to walk out the door knowing you haven't forgotten anything. Still bored? Spend some quality time here on the FISD- There are a lot of future (and existing) Troopers who need help and guidance. Remember back when you first started your white armor journey and pass your knowledge along to those who have questions. EI and Centurion- If you are already approved at Basic level, consider taking some time to bring your armor to the next levels of screen accuracy. Binge watch all the SW films- (It's OK if you fast forward through all the scenes with Jar-Jar Binks). Stay safe, and if anyone has any other ideas post em' up!

Hi Cody, and thank you for your EI submission! In the following review I will be going over items pertaining to your current submission, as well as those that will be required for Centurion level should you choose to apply. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of Sha Sha and myself, Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Although you have quite a few issues to deal with before you apply for Level 3, I know that you can do it, brother! It may take an afternoon or two of time, but as I have seen your recent fixes you have the talent to take care of these and then we can get you to Centurion! Let's start from the top, shall we? Your tube stripes are perfect in shape and size, but unfortunately they are not located in the right position. The fronts angle down a bit too far away from the cheek, and should follow the line as shown. Reference images Although not a deal breaker, we are suggesting that the bottom of the left ear be moved to where it lines up as seen in the blue dotted line. From what I can see, the right ear looks good. Reference images There seems to be some leftover return edge on the bottom of that ear as well which could be removed for a better look. Reference images It's VERY close, but we are recommending that you trim down the edges of your small ab-button plate and make sure the buttons themselves have a round appearance. Reference images Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than those for Expert Infantry, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Since Centurion is our highest level, we must look at all the details, large and small. As noted above, we use not only the CRLs but screen references as well in our reviews to make sure that you truly look your best! Although there were many variations in the film(s), for our purposes we aim for the "ideal" TK, and hope you will as well! Your left one is great, but the right shoulder bell needs to be turned in at the front to better match it and eliminate the gap. There needs to be " ...a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plates". A simple strapping issue that should be easy to fix. Reference images The back plate is overlapping the kidney plate a little more than it should and will need come up some (looks like about half an inch or so). A small amount is OK, but as per the CRL for Level 3, it "...shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate". Reference images The biceps are currently sit at different heights, and will need to be leveled out. I am suggesting taking the right one down. (See next item). Reference images The left one is spot-on, but your right forearm is sitting high and needs to be lowered to match the left one and eliminate the gap between the lower opening and wrist. This will create a gap under the bicep, which is why I suggested bringing that one down, Reference images As per the the CRL, "No return edge on the inside of the front forearm is allowed". This includes the inside of the small "hump" area. Two minutes with a Dremel and you are good to go! Reference images Again, SO close, but your ABS belt needs to come up. Note in the reference images how the top of the belt touches or even overlaps the bottom button(s). Reference images Your cloth belt is the correct width, but the length extends too far past the end of the TD. In a perfect world the end should sit behind the TD. Reference images Your right one is good-to-go, but the left drop box needs to be raised to where there is "...a minimal gap between belt and box". Easy fix! Reference images This is a tricky issue... at present your holster is sitting too far back and needs to be moved forward to sit more on your side. (In the reference images you will see how the front of the holster covers the front of the posterior plate). BUT, just moving the straps closer to the ends of the ABS belt will leave holes in it, and for Centurion, the belt "... cannot contain patches of any sort". This includes holes, sad to say, so we would need you to replace the belt. Reference images Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, we have traditionally insisted that the ends of the thigh ammo pack be centered on the bottom ridges on each side. A small difference is no big thing, but in this case the disparity is pretty big. In photo A, the rear edge on the right (outside) extends all the way to the angled corner, but in photo B the left (inside) sits about 2 inches back from it, A B Reference images We appreciate you removing the bottom of the cover strip as requested, but the gap will need to be filled with ABS paste and the area smoothed out a bit. Reference images You got the angle correct on the ridges, but the top angles will need to be reduced. Another simple fix with a Dremel! Reference images A super easy fix here, Cody. The strap on the right needs to be mounted on the inside of the holster. Reference image As I'm sure you know, your blaster will need to be replaced for Centurion. "Hasbro and Rubies blaster are not allowed, even conversions" And there you have it, brother. Do you have some work ahead of you? Yes, but with the way you jumped on the requested adjustments I have faith that you will find the time to "get er' done" so that we can eventually add that Centurion badge under your name! If you need help with any of the fixes, just ask,,, we are at your disposal, sir!