justjoseph63

You are # 461, sir!

Welcome back, Thomas, and thank you for your Centurion application! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos are present, and GREAT job on your build Trooper We are pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary requirements as set out in the CRL. On behalf of the Sha Sha and myself, congratulations and welcome to the rank of Centurion! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: First, I gotta' say BUCKETS OFF to you for the fantastic job you did on those fixes (especially those tube stripes)..... well done! Just a few small strapping items for ya' though to make you look your best. It looks as if your right forearm still wants to turn in for some reason, and I would think about changing the strapping to help prevent this. The "scoop" is designed to sit more toward the front to facilitate bending your arm without getting armor bite. In the second photo, yours is actually sitting in the rear. I see that you are using the 2" wide elastic (or nylon, I can't tell) for the bicep/forearm connection, but I would seriously consider changing the positioning. It will give you a much better look and definitely make it more comfortable to hold your E-11! Reference images There are still small gaps on your ab/kidney connections, but since the top halves look good we are going to suggest just tightening up your belt to even them out. So there you have it, brother. Yet another Centurion level trooper added to make the Florida Garrison, the FISD, the Legion and the Empire proud!

As Mario mentioned, assuming you are doing a Stunt (or Hero) build, you can either use a template or decals. The decals are easier, but either is acceptable all the way to Centurion level. Depending on who you got your kit from, one of these type should have been included, but if not, they are available from Trooperbay. Painting templates- https://trooperbay.com/trooper-tube-stripe-masking-templates Decals- https://trooperbay.com/standard-tube-stripes Just remember when using the templates that there is a left and a right one. The tops should lean toward the front:

Nothing like a big brown box full of shiny white ABS to make your day! Which armorer did you you go with, James? The reason I ask is that different makers can have their own little nuances on some pieces, and knowing who made it will allow us to better help you. As Mario mentioned, posting pics is really important (even if you have to do it one post at a time) especially if you have an issue. When you do have a question, it's always better to ask ahead of time before forging ahead. We are here for ya', so always feel free to hit us up if we can be of service!

Thanks for your submission, Thomas! Looking smart there, sir, and I will be with ya' shortly!

The Trooperbay blaster is 100% approvable at all levels.

I have an extra black resin one (full scale) that I can send to you, Mason. No charge, just pay postage. PM me if interested.

Way to go Gaines!! Many congrats, brother, and I hope to see your Centurion submission soon!

If you can provide a link to the ebay sales thread or some detailed photos of the ad that would be great. Please note that many (if not most) ebay sellers tend to stretch the truth when it comes to Centurion level approval, including armor and weapons.

Welcome to the TRUE home of shiny white armor, Brad! Fantastic to hear that you went with AM. My Stunt and HWT armor are from them, and even after countless troops no cracks, splits or yellowing. If you haven't had the chance yet, I would highly suggest getting all your build materials in place before you start. Being ex-military I am sure you have some mad organizational skills as well as patience... (hurry up and wait, lol) so besides research, my advice is take... your.... time. Once you start your build thread, be sure to ask any and all questions you may have and post up lots of photos. We LOVE photos, and they are especially important if when you run across an issue. We are here for ya', and thank you for for your service!

I believe they may contain latex, which tends to turn yellow with exposure to UV rays. The original ones were made of pure natural latex, which cures to a yellowish orange color and so they were painted white. In the first two pics you can see where some of the paint rubbed off. Not the biggest of deals on yours, just wanted you to look your best! "Anyways! On to fulfill level three! I'll make sure to adjust all of the things you listed". AWESOME to hear, and I look forward to seeing your Centurion submission!!

No rush, my friend, and I can't wait to see your R1 armor! One other quick thing, can you post up a clear(er) pic of the frown for me? I'm thinking it's just shadows, but I need to make sure the paint isn't going past the teeth. Thanks!!

I was wondering when we were gonna' see this, Justin! Looks great, brother, and I hate to ask you but we will need ya' to get suited up again (arms at side) for the front/back pics but without that awesome looking DLT-19. AWESOME job on that weathering, btw .

Looks fantastic, Michael.... but it's so cleeeeean, lol! Always great to see another HWT join the ranks, sir.

Welcome to Centurion level, brother... well done!!

Welcome to the FISD, Beth! Once you choose your armorer and get your kit, that's when the fun begins! While waiting, as Glen mentioned research is the key. There is a LOT of information here and it can seem a little overwhelming at times, but know that we are here to help every step of the way! Never be shy about asking questions... it's what we are here for.

I'm almost certain that Paul includes these in his kits, Dixon, but you will need to hurry up and wait until it gets to you to make sure. If not, I have them available here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48550-centurion-level-hardware-sets-for-sale-open/

Hi Darian, and thank you for your EI submission! In the following review I will be going over items pertaining to your current submission, as well as those that will be required for Centurion level should you choose to apply. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of Sha Sha and myself, Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. As I mentioned, fantastic job on this build, brother. Lots of great attention to detail and you nailed most of the areas we normally see issues with! We have a few items to go over, but in looking at the awesome work you did on the requested fixes they should be no problem, and some are just strapping adjustments. That being said, let's get to it! Your right bicep is sitting a bit high in comparison with the left. The spacing at the bicep/forearm connection is the same, but this results in the right wrist opening sitting farther from the hand guard area. We are suggesting that you lower the right bicep, which would fix both issues and give you a more symmetrical look. If you feel adventurous and have some time (as many of us do right now) we are suggesting that you reduce the size of your small ab-button plate a tad. I know AP makes the buttons a little wider than was seen onscreen, but this can be done and still maintain the look. Reference image I couldn't help but notice that your hand guards have a yellowish tint which doesn't match that beautiful white AP armor. You listed them as being made by AP, but are you sure they are silicone? In looking at another set of AP guards (Photo 3) they are normally bright white, so I'm not certain why they have that faded look. (It may be that Canadian lighting again, lol). If they are not silicone, you may want to consider a coat of white paint (the originals were painted) for a better appearance. Photo 3 Reference images Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than those for Expert Infantry, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper Now we get to the finer details to get you to the next level. It's these minutiae that will set you apart so we can get that Centurion badge under your name! A super easy fix here... for this one you just need to grab your Dremel tool (or a file) and remove the rest of the return edge in the "hump" area of the wrists. Reference images You did an excellent job on removing the excess paint on the teeth, so now it's time to use that talent to the ab buttons. As per the CRL for level 3, "...the paint does not extend to the bottom of the actual raised button" . As seen in the reference image details, there is a small area around the bottom of each button that is not painted. We would also really like to see the edges a lot more rounded. Using a "fibert" style brush (note rounded tip) will make this a lot easier! Reference images Filbert brush This is one of the most common issues we see, but is quite simple to address. The outer edges of the drop boxes must align with the outer edge of the ABS belt. Some E-6000 on the inside strap will take care of this. Last up, the gaps in the lower ridges as seen below will need to be filled. Some ABS shims behind them would do the trick, but remember that the top of the ridge is curved so keep that in mind. Reference images If you have the time and patience, instead of just shimming it from the rear you could go one step further. I'm not gonna kid you, it would be tricky but I have every confidence that you could do it! This would be my suggestion: 1. Add and ABS shim behind the area(s) in the inside (yellow arrow). 2. Using some scrap ABS from your build, cut some filler pieces to size that will fit inside the gaps. Note that because of the angle at the top of the ridge there will need to be a slight bend (blue arrow) and maybe the bottom as well. 3. Attach the filler pieces on top of the shim with a dab of glue to hold them in place. 4. Whip up a small (less than a teaspoon should do) batch of ABS paste to fill the seams. (Hint: In order to keep sanding time to a minimum, do NOT overfill the seams). Let it dry and then sand until smooth and then polish. Done deal. And that's it, sir. Again, seeing how fast you jumped on those requests makes me think we will (hopefully) be seeing your Centurion submission really soon!

You da' MAN... nice job!

Hi Roy, and thanks for your Centurion submission! Sha Sha will be with you as soon as possible, but before we can "move along" we need one small favor, brother. Can you take a Dremel or file to the "hump" areas on your right wrist opening? For Level 3, "...no return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed". Should take you all of 5 minutes. Thanks. and NICE JOB on those fixes!!! Reference images

Excellent work on those fixes, sir, and thanks for the photos! The lenses still have that gray appearance, but I took a look at your build thread and sure enough, the lens material is indeed green. (Must be the light there in the Great White North, lol). I will be with ya' shortly, so hang in there.

Hi Mister! First, SUPER nice job on this build, sir... lots of fantastic attention to details! As Mario mentioned, there are a few items before we can get started on your review, including painting the white rim on the Hovi-tips (EASY fix) The paint will need to be removed from the rivet on the cod. Rivet on must be brass or silver in color, approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter and is not painted Can you take another rear-lit photo of the lenses using a different light source? The reason being is that yours look a lot more gray (like ESB or ROTJ) than green. Lenses are flat material, green in color Typical AP lenses We will also need you to spend 5 minutes with some (non-acetone) paint remover and a toothpick to remove the paint from a tops of a few of the teeth. As per the CRL for Basic approval: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area The rest are good to go! Lastly, please post up a photo that shows your wrist openings on your forearms. As soon as you get these done, please add the updated pics to your first post so that we can get started and get that EI badge under your name!

That is one HECK of a coincidence! Sorry they cancelled that event for this year, but at least next year you will BOTH be in armor!

Gotcha. and thanks for the pics! It was that shadow that was throwing me... Looks GREAT, and glad to see you sanded down the rivet heads (smart move) to help the paint adhere better.

These would be my suggestions, Chris: It's best to leave a little more than you think you will need, as you can always remove more if required. I would suggest just blue taping the cap and face-plate for now until you get a rough trim on the ears, this way you can better adjust things forward or back as needed. Remember that the ears should line up as seen below, with the center of the top directly below the rear line of the trap and the 2 screws in line with it as well.