justjoseph63

You should have access there to all of the areas you will need for now. Once you get your armor and are ready to submit for Basic 501st approval, you will need to contact the Admins there to find out who is serving as the current GML. That person will be the one you send the photos to for approval to receive your official TK #. To make sure things go smoothly, I would highly suggest posting them in our "Pre-Approval" thread (information here). Another thread that is highly informative on the whole process can be found here. Hope this helps!

The CRLs are ever-evolving. As new, more detailed images become available we can see things that were just not apparent before. But, when the CRLs do change, it's no more than once a year and plenty of notice is given in advance (at least here on the FISD). Also, those who are in the process of a build or have current EI or Centurion submissions at the time they change are exempt ("Grandfathered" in). As of now, prospective changes will be posted for all members to not only see, but to be actively involved in the process and share their opinions on each issue.

Number changed, Freddy. If you have trouble changing it in the future just let me know!

I agree with you on the shoulder bridges being soft, but I am thinking this is an Anovos recast, as the uncut pieces below have too many similarities. 1. Right side raised at one end. 2. Straps ends are offset, with the left side lower than the right. In comparing the large tabs they don't look like RS. RS RS

I will echo that.

Looking forward to seeing this in person, Shawn! (Now that I can cross the Ravenel bridge thanks to you).

Looking good so far, Ken. I must say that this is the first Anovos helmet I have seen that has to be assembled. All of the ones I've seen so far were assembled at the factory.

Since you aiming for Level 3, (), one thing you will need to do is trim back the end of the ABS belt a tad. As per the CRL for Centurion, the "corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle (you nailed that part) that meets the outer edges of the cloth belt". Super easy fix! Reference images The position of the ABS belt is acceptable, but if you could bring it up just a teeeeny bit more that would be terrific! The angle of the cloth belt is a bit askew, and ideally the entire belt should sit more more horizontally. I say ideally because the majority of the ones seen onscreen were either horizontal or close to it. We realize of course that troopers come in all shapes and sizes, but with your build you should be able to pull this off. I know it seems we are throwing a lot of curve-balls at ya', but you seem to be a perfectionist and have come through with flying colors with all the suggestions we have made. As a D.O. this means a lot, and I am looking forward to the day that you become the newest Centurion of the Knightfall Garrison!

We can will get you through this, Danny, but to better assist you, posting some detailed photos is the way to go.

Welcome, Joseph! (Nice name, by the way.. ). Dave does some great work and his customer service is awesome. He includes most of the items you will need, but I would suggest ordering your boots and getting your under suit while you wait. Here is a thread that will help. If you have any questions in the the meantime, always feel free to ask! Looking forward to adding a new member to the Carolina Garrison!

FANTASTIC work on those shoulder bell curves, Caleb! WOW, what a difference! As for the shoulder snaps, you are correct. The center should sit direct in the middle of the top of your shoulders. I would wait until you have the ends connected to the chest and back tabs to make sure the fit is right before repositioning them.

As long as the rivet pin (blue arrow) is short enough you shouldn't have an issue. The mandrel (orange arrow) will pull it down pretty tight and reduce the length of the top part significantly. I would test in on a scrap piece of ABS first to make sure the square button covers sit tightly against the ABS belt.

Hi Derek! Although we can't help you with the Vader info, that is available on the Sith Lord detachment here, but be aware that building a 501st approvable Vader costume can easily run into several thousand dollars or more. We have a new section here called the First Order Battle Group, which is a fantastic place to start your research, and you can go directly to that area by clicking here. Always feel free to ask any specific questions you may have... we are here to help!

To attach the cloth belt to the ABS belt, you can use single cap rivets or pop rivets as seen in the lower photo). You will also need two snaps to hold the belt in place. One side gets attached to the cloth belt, one side gets attached to the ab plate. I suggest installing the snaps first, as you won't be able to set them once the rivets are in place. IMPORTANT: When attaching the snaps to the ab-plate, be sure your positioning is correct so that the top of the ABS belt sits high enough. Ideally, it should touch the bottom of the lower ab-buttons as seen below.

Ahhhh,,, distractions. What fun would life be without them? LOL. For removing the paint from the cod snaps and rivet, I would use Goo-Gone and some Q-tips. It's a citrus oil based product and is available at Lowe's, Home Depot, Walmart etc. for about $3.00 for a 2 oz. bottle and will not harm your armor in any way. For the shims, I would try going directly to RS. They have fantastic customer service, and if you explain what you need I'm sure they would help. Getting it directly from them would also ensure that the color match is spot-on.

Exactly as Troy said... just bend them around the thigh and the rivets** do the rest. Remember that the back ends of the ammo pack should be an equal distance from the rear corners (see blue lines below) of the thigh ridges on each side. **The ones used in the films were "single cap" rivets, but split rivets are 100% acceptable at every level. This thread may help. The top of the front should ideally be high enough to cover the lower ridge of the thigh as seen in the first pic below and the one on the left in the second photo, but there were others seen the films that had them lower. Some E-6000 will hold them to the ridge and keep them from sliding down.

Looking GREAT, Thomas.. NICE JOB!

It may just be the image, but it looks as if all the buttons are more or less the same shade of gray except for the third button on the small panel, which appears to be black. Also, it's pretty obvious that the bases are on all of them are black.

Yep. I would give it some time between the gray and black layers, though. Although the gray paint may seem completely dry after a day (or even a few hours) it needs to "cure" for another day or so. Better safe than sorry.

Welcome to the FISD Alan! I've trooped with a lot of the great folks in the Tampa Bay Squad, so once we can get out and attend things again you will be in good company!

Keep us in the loop, Cameron. Looking forward to seeing some photos of your progress! One thing I would mention about ABS paste, though... don't go overboard when filling/covering the seams. Put on just enough to cover them, which will save you a lot of time when sanding them down smooth.

Perfect photos, and THANKS! We will be with ya' shortly, sir!

Hi Carsten, and THANKS for your EI submission! Always fantastic to see another HWT headed for EI, but we need you to touch up a couple of things and add some updated photos brother. No need to get suited up! As per the CRL for Level 2: 1. "Pauldron is lightly scuffed (battle-worn)..." A few dark smudges here and there would make it look a lot better. 2. "Pack is slightly scuffed and battle worn, but not heavily weathered or dirty". I used some silver paint and a "dry-brush" to do mine (second pic) if that helps. Also, please add some close-up views of the following: 1. Side view of the pauldron. 2. A clear, close-up view of the back of the thigh bottoms. As soon as we get those, Sha Sha or myself can get started. Many thanks, and I look forward to seeing them!!!

If you are having issues of any sort, just start a post and ask any questions you have, Tom. We can will do our very best to help, and you are always welcome to PM me as well here.