justjoseph63

That's part of what we are here for!

I would avoid Anovos' soft goods, Ian. You can get them MUCH cheaper elsewhere. For instance, you can purchase black compression pants and shirts on Amazon for as little as 10 bucks each. Rubber gloves? $4.00 at WalMart. The Anovos neck seal is not that great, and I recommend one of Darman's : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/. Also the canvas belt that is included is total rubbish. There are several makers here, but I have one of Gary's (Flashpoint0214) and love it.

Welcome, Ian! Unfortunately, this is not an inexpensive hobby. I can appreciate the fact that you would like to get trooping, but to get an armor kit that will be accepted by the 501st / FISD will run you a minimum of around $450.00 to $550.00. They come un-assembled, of course, so you would need to purchase building supplies. Depending on what area you are in, there may be someone in a local Garrison or Squad holding an "armor party", where you can perhaps borrow some of the more expensive tools. Plus, there is the cost of soft-goods, i.e. under suit, boots, canvas belt, leather holster, neck seal, etc. You can see where this adds up... There is an excellent thread from Dday here which will give you a more precise breakdown: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28304-how-much-can-i-realistically-expect-to-pay-to-finish-my-stormtrooper-costume/ Just take your time, save up your money, and purchase things as you can. Before you know it you will have everything ready to start your build, and be out there trooping!

Interesting... I will actually be watching TFA this evening, and will definitely have a look. Thanks for the heads-up!

Just thought of something else... the canvas that the ammo pack is made from would probably muffle the speaker considerably. The chest plate gives it a cooler sound, and like Randy mentioned, it actually does sound like it is coming from the helmet.

Always great to hear about another HWT in the ranks,,, Congrats!!

That sounds like quite an undertaking, Peter. Not sure where I would even start! If you ordered the 10 watt Aker (or even the 12 watt) it should fit comfortably inside your chest plate. This is what I do: I used Velcro to attach the iComm to the inside of the chest plate itself, (a little off center), and I simply hang the Aker around my neck with the strap they include. They are thin enough (especially the 10 watt, which is MORE than loud enough) to not make the chest piece bulge out. Plus, all the wires are inside, and not visible. Connecting wires from the iComm to the Aker in an ammo pack may prove tricky, but if you decide to go for it, post up a thread with some photos!

Way to go, TK 77711 !!! Everyone remembers their very first troop, but be sure to be prepared. Here are a few things to think about: 1. Be prepared- Double (and triple) check your armor and make sure you have all your accessories before leaving your house. I would suggest carrying a small repair kit in your bin as well, with items like white duct tape, CA glue with accelerator, etc. There is a great thread here for this: http://www.whitearmo...ency-troop-kit/ If you have not spent a great deal of time wearing your armor, take a walk outside and around your house fully kitted up. This will give you a better idea of your limits of vision and capabilities 2. BE ON TIME. When you sign up for a troop, they will have an arrival time, (usually an hour or so before), and a "step off" time. The hour gives you the chance to get your armor on, and make any adjustments. If there are no "handlers", any fellow trooper will be glad to help you help you out. The POC (point of contact) person for the troop will give you any details you might need beforehand, (directions, special notes). Feel free to ask them any specific questions. 3. Be aware of you surroundings- Due to the limited visibility in a bucket, watch out for curbs, steps, obstacles, children, etc. There should be a handler within range at all times Also, be patient when people ask for photos, (and there will be LOTS of them) especially children. Often, they will ask "Can I hold your gun"? That is entirely up to you. A lot of us have spent a great deal of time building our weapons, and they (especially the resin cast) can be damaged if dropped. I usually say something to the effect that "The Emperor forbids it" or It's against Imperial regulations". (Side note): Always remember to NEVER point your weapon at a child for any reason, not even for a photo. It's just tasteless. Try to over- hydrate the day before the troop, as attempting to answer the call of nature in full armor can be a bit difficult..(trust me). But, keep water nearby. If you do need a break for some reason, make sure your handler escorts you. Hope these ideas help, and have a BLAST at the Birmingham MCM !!!

I personally have never heard of any cracking issues around holes in armor, Ron, but that doesn't mean it has never happened. The most common places I've seen are at the corners notches on the sides of the kidney plate.

Just as Michael mentioned, there are reasons that elastic is used is some places, especially so you will have range of movement. I have seen certain builds interchange it with nylon on some joints, but for the most part I use it where I need to. For areas that need to stay close, i.e. back/kidney connection, I used nylon. You also need to realize that after a certain number of troops, elastic will begin to lose it's... well... elasticity. I have replaced the elastic in my shoulder bridges a few times.

Agreed. This is in bad taste, and certainly does not make a good impression.

You shouldn't have a problem wearing a compression suit, Jim. I have been on outdoor troops here in FL. with 95 degree heat and 80 % humidity wearing one, and the good thing is that they tend to wick away moisture from your body.

It looks so.... naked, James! PM me your address and I will send you a few decals and such to get you started.

To be honest, unless you store your bin in an area that is accessible to the public during a troop, (rare) you really won't need to lock it. We tend to be a very honest bunch of folks, and look out for each other's stuff as we do our own.

I keep a small roll of white duct tape in my "emergency repair" kit just in case. Haven't had to use it yet, but better to be prepared...

Which one did you need edited?

Way to go, Randy!!!!! Awesome job!

Those macrobinoculars need a little "dirty love", Randy..

A few costumes? You are being modest, Glen.. I figured you had a warehouse somewhere!

A lot of it depends on what type of vehicle you have, Garrett. If you have a truck, I would go with this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-37-in-Mobile-Job-Box-209261/203668066 I can fit my entire kit (bucket included) into it. It also has a cool tray inside to hold things like your gloves, Trooper emergency kit, neck seal, etc.

Looking great, JT! They might say something about the blue radio knobs, though. Looks as if I will finally get to troop with another HWT here in central FL!!!

Way to go, Dennis!!!! The few, the proud, the Centurions!

Reminds me of a scene from the Mel Brooks classic "Spaceballs"... Lone Star: "So what is it you do here"? Yogurt: "Merchandising"...

EXCELLENT point, Chris!! Please note that there are certain online sellers (including Europe) that are selling FAKE E-6000. The genuine product is clearly marked Made in the USA, and has a batch number on each tube. They do not sell to distributors in China or Hong Kong, so if you order from a seller there, it is probably not the real stuff. If you have any doubts, you can contact the manufacturer at www.eclecticproducts.com, and they will let you know where to get it. The fake stuff is garbage.

3 questions for you, Bryce, and please don't think I am being sarcastic... 1. Did you remove the thin layer of protective plastic film that covers the parts you are trying to glue? This is a common thing, so don't be embarrassed. It happens to the best of us, (me included). 2. If so, did you lightly scuff up the joints you were attempting to glue with sandpaper (and clean them afterward)? This gives the E-6000 something to adhere to. 3. Are you using clamps and Neodymium (rare earth) magnets to hold things tightly in place while the glue sets? No need to go crazy with the amount of glue. A thin layer should do just fine. Any excess (seepage) can be removed easily afterward.