justjoseph63

Got ya' down for 2, sir..

If it is really stubborn after drying, you can also (carefully) use a razor knife. With a steady hand, cut along the seam, and like Kalani and Aaron said, use a piece of plastic or your finger to rub it off. Here is another hint since you are still in the gluing stages... Take some of the extra ABS pieces that you trimmed off and cut them into interior cover strips, especially for the inside front of the calves. That area gets a lot of wear and tear from opening/closing them, and this will provide additional strength. They don't have to be pretty, as they will not be seen, and will not affect approval at any level.

The choice of an undersuit styles is up to the individual Trooper, but I prefer the 2 piece style myself. Occasionally on a troop you will hear the "call of nature", and without getting graphic, let's just say that I find it much easier to answer that call if I am wearing a 2 piece suit. Otherwise, it can be a little tricky, and you may have to remove certain pieces of your armor. The one in the link has 2 way zippers, but you may find it next to impossible to reach one of them easily. Amazon sells individual shirts and pants like these: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_27?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=men+black+compression+shirt&sprefix=men+black+compression+shirt%2Caps%2C162 and ,https://www.amazon.com/HEAD-Mens-Compression-Black-Medium/dp/B011RTFK84/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1475917244&sr=8-2&keywords=men+black+compression+pants but many times you can find them at sporting goods stores. Like Aaron mentioned, no visible logos, unless they are in an area which will be completely hidden by your armor, (or in some cases you can simply wear them inside out).

ABS paste is made by taking tiny (think shavings) of scrap ABS from your build, and mixing it it with a SMALL amount of pure Acetone. You will only need about a teaspoon or so of shavings for those tiny holes. Using a glass jar with a lid or cover, mix in a half teaspoon of acetone to start, and let it sit, (this may take a while), stirring occasionally. The consistency when ready should be like toothpaste or marshmallow fluff with no lumps. Put a piece of painter's tape both behind the hole and around the perimeter of the front, and carefully fill it until it is just higher than the level of the armor. Remove the tape on the front immediately. Let it dry for a few hours, and sand it down. Done deal. You can use Novus polish to make the area shiny again.

GREAT job, Derrick! Reinforcing the shoulder bridges is actually a great idea... I am having to pack up my armor in a suitcase for a trip soon, and that was the one area I was concerned about breaking. Thanks for the info.!

Like I mentioned in the first post, they won't be arriving to me until the 18th, so within a day or so after that. I will be starting a new sales thread, but will post the announcement here first. The ones on the list in the first post will have priority. Thanks!

Another Imperial Attache to the rescue! Thanks, Chris... I have been looking for this file for weeks!

Looking sharp, David, and glad to see the pics! There is one thing at this point that you will need to address... The thigh ammo pack is mounted way too high on the right leg. It will need to be dropped to where the rivets line up up on the bottom, as seen in the picture below. This is actually a pretty easy fix, but might take a bit of time. You will need to remove the rivets, and mix up a small amount of ABS paste to cover the holes, let it dry for a few hours, and then sand it down smooth. After that, you can re-mount the ammo pack lower. If you need more rivets, just let me know via PM and I will send you some free of charge.

Well done, Daphne, and CONGRATS! Now, on to Centurion!

Hi David! I am sending you a PM with some tips to help you post the photos here, as opposed to providing the link above. This will make it much easier (and faster) to get your approval started.

Great question, sir! Although I admittedly know nothing about FO armor, that actually sounds like a brilliant idea using tire repair glue, Brian. It might be wise to use a bit of the extra rubber itself for an inside "cover strip" of sorts for added strength. If you get the go-ahead from a fellow FO TK that it will work, I would suggest taking some detailed photos during all the steps (and the results) of this repair. You could then post a thread as a tutorial for others in the same position.

WAY TO GO, Dennis, and WELCOME to the ranks, brother! Andrew pointed out a few issues that I am sure you will get taken care of quickly, and then get that Centurion submission in! Also, please PM me your address, and I will get that decal in the mail to you.

I would use progressively finer sandpaper until you get it smooth, Jake. After that, there is a scratch removal product called Novus, which I have used with great success. You start with the one for heavy scratches, then fine, then finish off with the polish. It is relatively inexpensive for a small set : http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOVUS-LARGE-KIT-PLASTIC-POLISH-RESTORATION-SYSTEM-/350159188809?hash=item51871d3349:m:mPib9dcjha-2zCZqvOVfy_g&item=350159188809&vxp=mtr One thing I would definitely recommend is to glue some sort of cover strips on the backs that will cover the seams from the inside. This will add a lot of strength to the seam, help prevent splitting, and will not affect approvals at any stage. Keep up the great work, sir. Don't be upset because of the extra work... we all had it in one place or another, and I promise you it will be worth it in the end!

Looking good, Trooper! Like Steve said.. should be an easy pass for EIB. Those hand plates are referred to as "Hero" style. Not sure if they will fly for Centurion. On a side note, you should consider removing all weathering on the T-tracks of your E-11. As soon as you get your EIB approval, PM me: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38945-free-501st-decal-for-the-next-5-eibs/

Wow.. EIB and Attache in one week... way to go, Dave!!

That definitely looks way too loose, William. If you (or someone you know) can sew, I would go the Velcro route. If not, I highly recommend one of Darman's: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/?hl=%2Bdarman+%2Bneck+%2Bseals. which are available in either Velcro or with a zipper. Just remember you don't want it too tight. I keep mine a bit loose for comfort.

Here's a hint, though, Robert... Before you actually put on your chest armor, hold the piece itself in place after turning on the amp so you can do a sound check and set the volume level correctly. Making adjustments afterward can be difficult. (Trust me, LOL).

Looking forward to seeing this as well, Chris!

You can email him here, Peter: troopergear@gmail.com

Just as Dave said, AM 2.0 is a great way to go. There are some great pack build threads and info here, Peter: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/45-heavy-weapons-trooper/ My advice would be to get your basic ANH Stunt build complete and approved first, then go for the Heavy Weapons look. With the HWT, you can bounce back and forth between that and TK as needed. Some troops are limited to shiny white armor, which could cause you to miss out.

You got it, Dave, and best of luck on your submission!!!

Got any photos, Kevin?

I am in the process of building one, Haui... full size. I plan on putting some glass on the top and using it as giant coffee table. Or using it as an armor bin. When I die, they can bury me in it.

The hytechtoyz was the first one I purchased for my first kit years ago. I was not impressed, to say the least, and replaced it after the first troop.

A Kiwi HWT! Awesome! Looking forward to your build, Josh, but one quick note if I may... the pauldron goes on the right, the ammo pack on the left.