justjoseph63

You definitely don't need sew-in snaps for any level, Matt. There are a lot of areas on the average Centurion that are not "screen accurate", i.e. hook closures on the back of the calves, sew-in snaps, bracket fasteners, etc. We realize that not everyone sews, and allow snaps to be set in nylon/elastic for strapping, Velcro on the calves and so on. You have done an outstanding job on this build, and at this point I can't see anything holding you back from reaching Expert Infantry level should you choose to apply.

Nice job on those ears, Greg! Steve is a legend here on the FISD. If you are (hopefully) aiming for higher levels, make sure that the lower ear screws are the flat V head style. For some reason Anovos puts the wrong ones on the bottom.

Hi Micah! I doubt VERY seriously that anyone from the 501st will look down on you. We (especially those of here) realize that cons are all getting decked out and having fun. Believe me, we see all sorts of TK "armor" made by fans who may just want to be a Stormtrooper for Halloween or special events, and some of them are actually really nice! Looks like you have quite a task in front of you with the EVA foam build, but I'm sure it will be a fun one. Feel free to post up pics of your build, ( I assure you, no one will make fun of you) and who knows... one day you might even get hooked enough to go all the way with a set of 501st approvable armor!

WOW, Ron... really nice job on that AM armor! As Daniel mentioned, you look good to go for basic, no doubt. Outstanding job on the kidney shims and paint, especially on those ab buttons, which are perfect! Once you get basic approval, be sure to request Legion approval here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/ . After that, I hope to see your EI submission, and then on to Centurion!

Being an HWT tends to do that, lol.

I would go with "white", Dave. The off white can be way too beige-ish depending on the maker and not blend in with the armor well. "Off white" canvas belts Reference image

We are not too picky on that, Dave. The vast majority of rubber gloves have some sort of texture.

Looking great, Kalani, and glad to see that you are back on track! For the top left button panel buttons I used these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotch-Rubber-Bumper-12-Pack-Rubber-Adhesive-Cabinet-Bumpers/1000328139

Always great to hear we have another HWT bound for Centurion!

@T-Jay is spot on there, Eric. It looks as if you have too much padding in the top. I had the same exact issue on my first bucket, and found I was constantly having to tilt it forward just to see anything below the horizon. I removed the top padding and BINGO, I could see almost to the front of my boots. Important on a troop when you have kids around you so you don't clock them in the head with your blaster or elbow.

AWESOME job on that blaster, Sven! Could you post up some pics of the other side, as well as a detail photo of the end cap showing the D-ring? A top view pic of the magazine and magazine well would be nice as well. Thanks!

Wise decision by deciding to get two belts, Chris. As you know, the HWT belt cannot have drop boxes or a holster, which can be a pain to remove and add back on. It also needs to have some "scuffing" similar to the armor, and for level 2 it cannot have holes from removing the holster. For the ABS belt, you may want to contact ATA, as I know they make replacement parts. For the canvas belt, be sure that the Imperial Issue belt is the right shade of white, as some of theirs can be way too beige colored and have a lot of excess fraying on the edges. Another option is to go with one of Rob's canvas belts, made to order in your exact size. I own 3 and could not be happier: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/ If I can be of any help with specifics on your HWT build just let me know via PM.

Not to worry, Rob. When painting them, be sure that the paint stays inside the raised button area, preferably with a small gap around the bottom as seen below. A small, round tipped "filbert" style brush works well for doing this. Reference image

Hi Eric, and thanks for your submission! One of us will be with you shortly, but before proceeding we will need a close-up pic of your lower ear screws. You will also need to change out your TD screws to the flat "pan head" type as required by the level 2 CRL: Reference image Thanks!!!

Forgot to add, if you need replacement split rivets for your new shims, just let me know via PM and I will send you some no charge.

ABS paste is not that hard to make or use, and it will not harm your armor, I assure you. Here are 2 links that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45555-howto-resize-armor-with-abs-paste-and-armor-scraps/?tab=comments#comment-625323

They are great to deal with.. I bought the aluminum folding stock, mag well, magazine, rear cap and front barrel piece for my last Doopydoos build from them.

That's what we are here for, sir. Always feel free to ask as many questions as you like.

For basic approval, there is no requirement for shims on the ab/kidney connection. For level 2 they cannot be more than half an inch wide, and an extra seam is allowed at the join. For level 3, no gap and no visible seam the kidney/shim. Looks like you already applied ABS paste to the shim seam, but went a bit overboard... not to worry, though, at least you know how to make it now! These would be my suggestions, Katye. 1. Since you are going to change out the shims, I would cut them behind the area where the ABS paste is now, as seen in the photo below. 2. Measure the new shims, and attach them to the kidney with backer plates for reinforcement, leaving the smallest gap possible. 3. Make up another batch of ABS paste, but use it SPARINGLY... add just enough to the seam to cover it. Any excess will need to be sanded down smooth eventually, (more on that below) so don't make more work for yourself! 4. Once you get them complete, I would concentrate solely on your torso connections, doing this one piece at a time from the top down, starting with the back. Once you get one piece perfect, move to the next one. This may take some time, but we are here for ya' every step of the way, sir. You are doing a great job posting lots of photos, which help a LOT! I am sure you want to get this complete, get approved and get out there trooping, but as I often say here, a TK build is more of a marathon than a sprint, and we want you to look your best! You will get there, I assure you. (GREAT job on those boots, by the way). Keep up the great work and keep asking questions! When sanding down ABS paste, use progressively smaller grit sandpaper. I'm not sure how familiar you are with sandpaper, Katye, but the higher the number, the finer the finish. I suggest starting with 120 and going up. There are different materials used to make it, but I suggest using paper made with silicone carbide. You can buy a complete set from Amazon for around 11 bucks which has 120 all the way to 7000! (link below). I recommend masking off the areas you don't want sanded with painter's tape, this way you don't scratch parts of the kidney/shim that don't need it. Once you get the area sanded down smooth, use a scratch removal system like Novus or similar to get it looking shiny. Silicone carbide sandpaper set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMY7X87/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07CMY7X87&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=V2EWB1MNMKWPTW8KMCA6&pd_rd_wg=hj1RC&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=Ukddn&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=e2bc1ba5-ddc3-11e8-aac7-712434b39254 Novus scratch removal/polishing set. (The 2 oz. size will do just fine) https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541069986&sr=1-5&keywords=novus+plastic+polish+kit

Welcome back, Giles, and thank you for your Centurion application. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos are present. I'd like to thank you and add that you did an EXCELLENT job taking care of all the issues from your EI submission as well as the drop box alignment.... a beautiful job on your build, Trooper. Way to go! . On behalf of the D.O. staff, I am pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary requirements as set out in the CRL. Congratulations and welcome to Centurion! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: As mentioned, the pride you took in this build shows, Giles. Always great to see when someone takes our advice to heart and goes the extra mile as you did. The only thing I could suggest is that you use your incredible talent for painting (those ab buttons and hovi-mics are outstanding) and touch up the vocoder. The tops should be more defined as seen in the reference photo. A "Filbert" style brush (see photo) works perfect for this, and you don't have to remove any existing paint. Should you decide to do this, I would repaint the entire vocoder using a satin finish paint as opposed to the gloss finish it now has. Reference image Filbert brush Other than that, nothing to add, sir. Now get out there and make the Empire and Badlands Garrison proud as it's newest Centurion!

I would definitely take Andrew's great advice on trimming down the top of the neck area on the chest plate. The reason being is that Anovos kits are notorious for splitting there and on the sides. (See highlighted areas in photo). I highly suggest cutting some long curved strips of scrap ABS (about 1/4 inch wide) to reinforce these areas on the inside, (second photo) and try to use one long strip if possible. It doesn't have to be pretty, as these areas are not seen, and it will not affect approval at any level.

When sizing limb pieces, (especially forearms and thighs), I recommend removing all excess return edges for a perfect fit before gluing. Leaving return edges at the top of the thighs can cause chafing, and the wrist opening of the forearm should have no return edge at all. Some folks like to leave a bit on to give the armor a thicker look in certain areas, but for the most part the armor used in the films was trimmed down a lot, as seen in the photos below. You can (and should) leave some return edges on the tops of the calves and bottom of the thighs, though. The reason behind trimming them before final gluing is that if you need to remove them in the future you may have too much room, causing the piece to be loose. If you have any questions, it's always best to post up a few detailed photos of the issue before final gluing so that we can help you out. I suggest using blue painter's tape to hold things together for sizing / photos.

My apologies, but unfortunately that run was a one-off and I sold out earlier this year. Due to the server changeover a while back it will not allow me to edit the main post to reflect this, so I am going to delete it.

Just be sure to order a size larger than you normally wear with Imperial boots, as they tend to run a bit small. Other than that, they are awesome!

The correct one is the "pan head" style, as seen on the left (a). I sell sets of these at my cost if you need them, just look underneath my avatar below.