justjoseph63

Hi David, and thank you for your EI submission! One of us will be with your shortly, but in the meantime could you post up a few more photos for us? 1. Rear of helmet (Required) 2. Cod-posterior photo showing the outside of the rivet/snaps. (Required) 3. Close up of tears. 4. Close up of bottom ear screws. 5. Please add your blaster type/maker (required). You are also missing the charging handle: You also have a few issues with your TD, mi hermano.. The plate is not centered, and the left side could use some cleaning up and gray paint The plate also needs to be raised to where the O on the control panel faces up. The screws you have now are are OK for EI, but you will need to change those out for level 3 to the pan head type. Reference images Hopefully you can get these done soon so we can get you approved! Thanks..

Hi Grave! Thank you for your EI submission, and nice job on that build! One of us will be with you shortly, but before we can move along there are a few issues we need you to take care of, sir. 1. The gloves required for level 2 must be "Rubber or rubber like chemical gloves" as per the CRL. Yours appear to be vinyl. 2. Could you post up some detailed photos of the T-tracks on your blaster? You will need 6 total T-tracks on your blaster as required in the CRL: "If using the Hasbro E-11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6)". It may be the photo angles, but it looks like a few are missing or the wrong type. Your canvas belt also looks too dark. As mentioned in the CRL it should be "white or off white", but yours is bordering on a beige color, and it should blend in with the armor color more. Reference image Thanks very much, and we hope to see your updated photos soon, Trooper!

Nice work!! A trick I used when painting the traps (and tears) is to do the black outline first. You can make it a little thicker than needed, and I found it easier to fill in the gray and cover the inside edges of the black rather than paint a thin line around the gray.

I think with the drop boxes that it comes down to which reference source is preferred. Some obviously have no gray, and some do: No gray With gray (You can even see the white scratches on some).

Nice job on that armor, Aaron, and one of us will be with you shortly! Always great to see a well build set of AM show up in the submissions. It looks as if your "Han snap" (the one in the upper right corner of your ab plate) is painted white. It may just be a reflection of the light, but could you post up a close up pic of that for us? Thanks!

against the..... ridges that you are gluing them to? You can certainly tape them down in place first before adding the magnets. As for separating them, you should be able to slide them with your thumb as such: After the glue dries on the joins, be sure to add the spacers back before storing or using them again.

Any updates on this, Nizam?

These things are SUPER strong, Jeff. When using them, remove them from the stack one by one. Always slide them apart, and keep the plastic inserts in place when not in use. When attaching them to the area you are gluing, do it like this: 1. Slide one off of the stack with your left (or right) hand and set it down on the work surface (well away from anything metallic). 2. Slide another one off and set the stack aside at least 24 inches from the first one and again, anything metallic. Keep that magnet in your hand. 3. Place it under the area you need to clamp, (join) and hold it there firmly with your index finger and thumb. 4. Pick up the first magnet with the other hand and place it directly on top of the join over the one underneath. It may flip over because of the polarity but will line up automatically. 5. Repeat as needed. As you add new sets to the seam, keep them as far away from the last ones as possible. Once you get them all on, you can slide them into the correct area(s). To remove them: 1. Starting at the ones on the end, hold the inside one firmly in place and SLIDE the top one off. Set it aside (24 inches away). Do not let the interior one move. 2. Keeping a good grip, remove the inside one. Repeat as needed As suggested in my magnet tutorial, https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44619-magnets-101/ covering them in blue tape will keep them from scratching your armor. Also, if these "jump" too far to connect with each other (or a metallic object) they can (and will) shatter, rendering them useless.

And well deserved!

You are definitely on the right track, Adam, and EXCELLENT job on attaching those cover strips! To make your armor look even better, (and closer to screen accuracy) I would make a few suggestions: 1. As Mathias mentioned, you should remove all the return edges on the wrist side of the forearms. Even down to the bump (shown in the blue circle). I realize that you have probably not attached the snaps to hold up your canvas belt in the front, but note that the ABS belt should actually be raised quite a bit to where it covers the bottom of the large ab button plate, and that the outside edges of the drop boxes should be aligned with the outside edges of the ABS belt. As mentioned above, Tony's Anovos build tutorial really can't be beat: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-uswraths-anovos-tk-build-stunt/

It's not that easy finding Chelsea boots that will pass because of various reasons, (wrong stitching, elastic, sole type/color, etc.) but if you find a decent set that will pass I always suggest grabbing them and using leather dye/paint to make them white. I checked a while back and found as set of brown ones, but they wanted $120.00 plus shipping. Ad the cost of the leather dye and time to do it and it was cheaper to get "regular" TK boots, lol. If anyone finds a decent ongoing supplier of quality ones I would like to add it to my reference book for the future.

I doubt these would pass, Chris, and finding a set of acceptable TK boots can certainly be a challenge to say the least. There are only 2 companies I am aware of that make a set of boots that are 100% acceptable right out of the box. One is TKboots... they make an AWESOME product but are in the process of going out of business, sad to say. (They still provide excellent customer service, though). They do have some odd sizes left, but you would have to get in touch with them and ask. http://tkboots.com/index.htm The other is Imperial Boots. https://www.imperialboots.com/# They also make a great product, but they manufacture them in "waves", meaning they take orders and then make them in intervals. I own 2 sets and they have held up fantastic. Shipping is pretty fast (even though it's from China), but if you order from them be sure to add a size to what you normally wear, as they run a bit small. Note: I noticed that they are starting production of the next wave soon..

I'm sure I haven't looked at as many of the drop boxes than you, lol, but in the pics that Mike provided they are all gray.

Holster- Green Thigh- Green Belt- Green

Being ex Navy (many years hence) and being on a carrier I was never directly involved in conflicts, but I made friends that I keep in touch with to this day. This also applies to the friends I've made through the FISD. During Celebration in Orlando last year I finally got to meet in person fellow Troopers from literally all over the world I had met here. This tends to be a pretty tight knit (but very welcoming) community, where we help each other out when we can, learn about attention to detail, aim for higher levels, watch each other's backs on troops, etc. Sound familiar? By the way, Thank you for your service!

Welcome back, Jose, and thank you for your Centurion application. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos are present. Beautiful job on your build Trooper . We are pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary requirements as set out in the CRL. On behalf of the D.O. Staff,congratulations and welcome to Centurion! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: First, I appreciate you taking care of the various issues and suggestions, sir, especially the right ear trim and those ab/kidney shims which look a LOT better! I know working with ABS paste can be difficult, but you came through in fine style. It was suggested that you move your biceps in close to your chest and back, but I realized that you have some mighty large guns there, brother, and are no stranger to the gym! I see (and appreciate) that you did all you could to reduce the gap by bringing the tops closer to the shoulder bridge, removing the return edge on the shoulder bells, and that they lay flush with the biceps, so you are good to go. Nice work! I have a few more suggestions to give your armor a better overall look, and after seeing the great job you did on the other items I feel sure will take care of these with expertise. One thing I would suggest is that you hit the extra ear bar you painted black with another coat of gray, as it is showing through. A tiny detail and an easy fix, but one that will give you a more polished look! Reference image Your thighs could stand to be raised so that they are closer to the bottom sections of your ab. Removing all (or most of) the return edges on top would give you plenty of room to do this, and it is 100% screen accurate. It would also make them more comfortable for you while walking. Reference image Reference image One last thing... I would replace the rear Chicago screw on your holster connection. It looks as if it is pulling through and may come undone at some point. ("Wardrobe malfunction"). Overall a great job and a fine looking set of armor to add to your collection of SW costumes, sir. (Hopefully you will use this one more than the others when representing the Empire)!

Another stellar job, Glen! Here are a few of my thoughts: 1. Keep the thigh ammo belt squared off. 2. Keep the drop boxes all gray. 3. Flexible hand plates must be permanently affixed to the gloves (no straps). 4. Specify rivet size/type on ab and kidney. (I suggest keeping it the same as ANH, 5/16 split rivets). 5. Specify ear screw style as in level 3 ANH CRL. As most of you know I am a big proponent of continuity, so I'm of the feeling that there should be minimal "options", i.e. rounded OR squared kidney/posterior, drop boxes gray OR white, etc. I realize that the different sources for the images show various styles, but imho we should set one standard for future TKCs to go by and stick with it. Just my 2 credit's worth.

I'm a little late to the party, but thought I'd make a suggestion or two, Alex.. The cover strips should be right at the edges of the ridge as seen below: If you haven't glued the biceps yet, I would remove all the return edges on the tops (which will even them out), check for fitment again and then glue them. They will be covered by the shoulder bell and will not be seen anyway. This also applies to the tops of the thighs. Some like the "thick" look it gives to the armor, but they (thigh tops) can cause chafing and "armor bite" in certain areas (especially those in the cod area) if left on. Removing the return edges in these areas will not affect approval at any level, and is actually accurate (as seen in the screen used armor photos below). In some areas (like the tops of the calves, bottom of the thighs, kidney and posterior plates) I would leave it. You are doing the perfect thing by asking questions and posting clear, concise photos before gluing, so keep em' coming. We are here to help, and will help get you to Centurion eventually!

Looking fantastic, Glen, and great detailed pics! I really like the idea of using a long sanding block on the straight edges... brilliant! Although I send my sincere condolences for Ozito, that could very well be one of the funniest photos I have seen in a long, long time.

I really doubt anyone will notice, Tom, but you seem to be a bit OCD (like me, lol). If you do decide to get a new bucket, as Mark mentioned I would cut down the ears a bit more. (REALLY nice job on removing the gaps around them, though)! Reference image

Please note that cans (and bottles) can be sent through the mail.

Not to worry, my friend.... I literally learn something new here every single day! Now, if I could just remember it all I would be in good shape, lol!

The corners of both ab button plates should be squared off, Lorelei. Rounding them off may be a little more aesthetically pleasing, and honestly will not make a big difference for approval, but for screen accuracy the corners should be at a sharp 90 degree angle just as yours is now. When they were constructing the original suits, I imagine they just wanted to get them done and didn't bother with the small details like this. Little did they realize at the time that their handiwork would be scrutinized so much, lol! Here is another example:

Sorry to add to your list, Pawel, but as per the CRL you will need to eliminate all the return edge from the wrists. (Basically anything inside the blue lines shown below). An easy fix with a Dremel tool and 3 minutes of your time! Reference image I also noticed a few other items that will help you look your best. For screen accuracy (which is what Centurion is all about) your hovi-mic tips should be white on the inside- Reference image The paint on one of your teeth could stand to be reduced a bit as seen below. I know it's a small thing, but will improve the appearance. Reference image

With all this fantastic input and Glen's diligent research, I think we are getting close to nailing this down. At this point, perhaps we should think about making a complete, detailed list of proposed changes and set up a voting thread to get a final consensus. after that, the CRLs could be updated. We would also need a volunteer to model for a new CRL photo which should reflect the changes. That person would also supply high res photos for the various components of the costume. My vote at this point would be Arthur. Even though he is already a level 3 TKC, he is willing to make adjustments to comply with the new requirements, and has a great eye for detail.