TK bondservnt

they are pretty wonky actually... the mold has to enter hollow areas of the part. soon I'll be upgrading as casting goes along. I have 5 here that are curing, and when they are done I'll prime and paint em for a better look. as soon as I can I'm going to put better photos up. need to get my light setup and camera adjusted correctly.

Hello troops, I have always wanted to upgrade the doopy do's clip appearance. I cast in latex rubber some example molds, and have a few castings. also have some photos on a recent blaster build as well. if there's interest I'd like to fill up a list, and when it's full, move the list over to the sale section. photos: in the raw on a blaster. molds and original parts parts shown with doopy originals a better closeup of the clip end post in this thread to be added to the interest list. feel free to post comments and suggestions! I'm thinking 15 plus shipping per set. Has imperfections and need primer paint and sanding or cutting to fit. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 when I get at least 5 interested I'll move this over to a sale area and start taking your signup data for sending invoices via paypal. shipping and any applicable taxes extra. send PM with full name, address and email address to be added to the list. I have 5 sets ready here's what they look like when ready to prime.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/page__st__40#entry202299

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14216-e-11-model-x/ "Building the main body. The PVC BBC templates are for a 42mm OD tube matching some plumbing supplies. The real sterling is made out of a 1"1/2 OD tube. I managed to find the right diameter and correct wall too, on ebay.co.uk, tubes being sold as coolant pipes. Made of sturdy 6063 T6 aluminium from what I remember. The downsizing of the templates are an exact 10%. I shrunk only the width to match the perimeter, holes are oval but since I know what the size is supposed to be (7/16" and a few of 1/2"), so I just needed the alignment and spacing, aside the front stock lock groove that was measured on the original part and cut accordingly."

best to ask over at the spec ops. http://forum.501stspecopsdet.net/

ATA does black. stay away from the bay! it looks FX recast.

I use 6/32 slotted machine screws. you want the round head version. and black is the correct color according to RS props originals, and screencaps in the LFL archives. not sure if it's in the CRL yet.

photos show the pugman is for regular ESB tk's as well! love it!

interesting points of view... well done!

I use electrical conduit from lowes! it's grey

use tin snips! works much better than a knife!

THE ARMOR in the thread is awesome! wonder where the holster came from? glad to be the holster maker worn by centurions~!

THIS PHOTO is not an ap sniper knee disregard the above photo. The photos below show the proper alignment

with the new blasters in the works... we should have quite a rise in blaster accuracy around here! please keep in mind andy that I have 2 sets ordered, and I already have the real center caps for those 2 orders!~ I'd like them unpainted and un-primed as I'll need to mount the parts on the cells you make for me should be a little more simple, since I already have some of the parts needed. thanks to this thread and the helpful thoughtful people involved!

it would be nice to see the RS dimensions for all the strips... not just the thighs/shins. it's fun to know the details.

kevin! thanks for considering the options for larger troopers! also might want to consider safety on the neck parts in case of a fall? great thread!

if accuracy is the goal then why compromise? and I would like to ask the poster to supply the RS dimensions for the parts it's about armor accuracy... not about anything else. I don't agree that we should teach people to do an armor part a certain way just because we think it looks better... we should stand for how it actually was done I suppose it's a point where there is confusion... some elements are considered important while other aspects are overlooked and accepted? my suggestion is that the cover strips and the lip on armor is important to consider? it's like putting on the thigh power pack? or the sniper knee! all important aspects to be sure!

because thinner is more accurate than what we are currently told to make... that's why! and I for one like the look of them being smaller with more edge lip too! my 2 cents! if accuracy is the goal then why stop at wrong sized cover strips just because we're "told" that it looks better if it's wrong? why accept ? why deny? BTW what are the smaller dimensions?

keep us posted! our prayers are with you!

post saved for more photos.

first photos "in the white" then in black and details and weathering latex rubber was applied to the scope before painting. so that's why it's blacked out. during the final matte clear stage the scope will have the latex removed and be touched up by hand.

freakin amazing chart man... I"m baffled! that's like detective work!

can a person fall in love with a forum thread?

photos!

love that first pic! great stuff!