TK bondservnt

this is not correct. the original sterling has a recoil buffer assembly that fits inside the bolt. a demil gun that is assembled incorrectly would put the recoil buffer outside the bolt. which is wrong. just because it's a demilled sterling does not mean that the company or individual assembled it correctly. usually they don't have a real weapon to copy and they just stuff the components in.... without knowing how they actually fit together. the original sterling bolt correctly assembled uses a bolt, a recoil buffer retaining ring and a recoil buffer plate and extra spring. here is what the bolt assembly I'm describing looks like when assembled will replace the correct recoil buffer and bolt photo soon.

Calm Down and Wait for it... wait ok... now... it will ship...! LOL

that is the recoil buffer. it fits inside of the bolt. see a hole in it? that is supposed to have the charging handle running though it.. entire assembly: I'll post photos of the bolt assembly soon! will add correct bolt photo with recoil buffer soon. they did not modify the weapon for blank firing... they had to use really high power blank loads too which allowed a blowback weapon with an open bolt to cycle properly.

I've been following this build for quite a while now. you've done a really amazing job on every aspect of the build. and everyone has helped out quite a lot. there are only 3 minor flaws that I see, and by no means do they detract from the overall AWESOMEness of this work. 1 counter numbers should not have red details, usually this type of counter ( with it's logo sleeve, as an identifier ) should have white numbers with the last 2 yellow. 2 the end cap lock is placed too far forward. it's supposed to be mounted over the end cap just slightly, as it's supposed to keep the end cap from rotating. after looking closely at my sterling parts we're only talking about 1/2 of a MM and it's only the lack of the small spring under the lock that looked like too much light was passing between the assembly. there are 2 positions for the end cap. I guess I'm used to looking at position 1. 3 The clip end should not have hammered finish, nor should the clip, it's supposed to be just flat black. The small triangle shaped divot at the end of the clip on top and bottom should be filled in. 4 The bolts in real sterlings don't show the buffer spring metal part at the rear, that part actually fits inside the bolt, and mounts using the charging handle though the bolt itself, and in the center rear of the bolt, the recoil buffer/ spring guide sits inside the rear of the bolt itself. I'll post photos of the bolt assembly soon! you did a great job on the bolt colors... best I've seen yet! I'm sure that with the new clip from steve, and everything.. it won't matter much! but I thought I'd point it out. :smiley-sw013: :smiley-sw013:

I always thought that you had cast the originals? and that keith also had cast an original? so these must be both sculpts of yours? and his? I remember reading about your tell... where you moved the lettering? can you update me on this data? :smiley-sw013: :smiley-sw013: hope you can stop the re-caster...

ah... another company that is making generic stuff... hmm...

walt and gino sitting under a tree, armor building for you and me! pics of a real e-11? ok how about one that was used on screen. now when do I get a box of cat hair! ( I already have the dog hair covered!)

build it.

I have a professional leathersmith with 35 years experience. he does all my sewing work. I cut out the patterns from leather from tandy, and he sews them up. we can produce any color of leather needed.

---------- drill 2 holes in the bracket, then drill 2 holes in the counter and use wood screws and glue to finish it off. I like to align the eagle logo part of the counter with the front foot of the scope.

I think you're doing a fine job on the helmet!

I can make white leather gear?

another winning build!

:smiley-sw013: I support the ESB kit shown above!

i am really happy for lou. He has a lot of friends around here!

you gotta prove it man! just archive the post. that's what the archive is for!

recasting artwork from any one is wrong. casting from original parts?? priceless. to copy ATA tips is wrong. to copy an original tip. honorable. this is exactly why making stolen copy is called RE instead of the first generation of a part we have a stolen second gen part. and don't tell me about lost parts found again as a basis for the excuse of re-casting. you don't represent the legion properly by openly admitting that you are guilty of a crime. in this world there are 3 kinds of artists. 1 Original artist. 2 Copy. 3 Stolen art.

awesome builds!

can we remove the lock feature and just archive?

SICK!

so ongoing sales have a time limit?

so what about the damage this does to resource threads that list products according to links ? won't this break those lists and require extra work from the managers of those lists?

a community is suppose to be easy to use. not have a ton of "control" based work to do extra. this makes it hard to buy and sell on the FISD.

as an example... we have sellers here who have very important products to sell... but the product is not a volume seller, and the trooper who's selling does not troll for thread replies. actually some sales threads actually don't want a thread reply. some thread managers just expect an email. or a least a paypal payment as a notification of a sale. so we're going to see a lot of lost important sellers here. this just makes the FISD look bad. ALSO another point to note. there are resource lists that have a series of links to existing threads. so this process BREAKS the link protocols we've had in place for the last 2 years. the managers of the resource threads are going to have to spend a lot of time doing work, for no real purpose.