TK bondservnt

AM armor is not screen accurate in shape or style. it's based upon the fx fan sculpted kit. just like your stuff this is a representation of fan based artwork. RSProps or ATA AP are based upon actual versions of suits. recasting was not used to create FX or AM aror. but NE is an RSProps recast and not approved oN FISD. :smiley-sw013:

plus one on this. and from mathias being in sweden as well, why don't you just go over and visit him and be amazed by the armor he has.

you simply use the URL feature of photobucket and paste the code into the post box. if you use direct link, you need to paste it into the media box, but if you use the image tag with the href link you simply post the code into the box.

I see the divot on the AB plate side button panel, and ATA CAP TE lineage does not have that feature. it also has the split kidney/butt see the divot? I ATA and TE armor and it does not have this feature. from the look of the details on the AB and the shape of the kidney and the fact that the details are marshmellowed it sure looks like an RS cast to me? what shows the ATA/ TE lineage? because the centerline on the cod is not offset? like the RS?

looks like a cheap styrene recast of RSProps armor. STAY AWAY!

hero helmets are far more than the faceplate. they actually are a very different design. the teeth are not the only differences the assembly is not enough. you also need lenses, and different ears for a hero. bubble lenses 3 bump ears wider face, different cap n back. frown has thinner profile and has no divots for the 4th and 5th teeth. eye shape different.

being a fan of people who form in plastic, perhaps you can purchase some stuff from walt to get your project rolling along?

---------- the ROTJ blaster is not based upon the sterling details at all.. I'm hurt today and bed ridden so I'll dig up some plans in a few minutes

we needs the hook cap'n! arrr!

right on paul! you da freakin man!

perhaps the best route to travel is simply to get RS props to cover the materials and workmanship. I'm not exactly sure if they have the comlink and grappling hook setups done yet, but they most likely would be able to help you out a great deal, if you're really wanting to go to the high levels. that's a nice post mathias..

I have an extra TK belt, and could put together a holster with distressing like that. you will need a comlink, with holder, and a grappling hook box setup. it can be done, but you have to start sourcing parts right away... it takes time for us to make stuff! how accurate are you wanting to go? we usually go for a very high bar of accuracy.

glad to hear you handled the challenge.. let us know how you do with the thinner materials.. we're looking forward to it! do you have vent holes drilled into the faceplate at the locations shown on the photo of the faceplate mold you posted from shepperton studios?

thanks for your support walt.. I'm sure anyone can gain from this. there is a great amount of information contained in understanding that the forming table used in making helmets as I have shown in my little animation taken from the same person, using the same molds as photographed in 2007 shown in this thread. having the heater on rollers with the frame over a lifting table shoud be on everyone's list of vac table design for making helmets. flip tables will usually result in webbed parts. this is where the original former has overcome the shortcomings of other designs.

the lay down angle of the buck is very important here. compared to notice how the vac table uses a lift to bring the buck upwards into the plastic. he's using a bubble of air to pre stretch it upwards. so his vac table has the following features 1 a large air chamber with a lift. to lower and raise the buck. 2 a heating element with the frame on rollers to quickly move the sheet without disturbing the form 3 a blower to introduce an air bubble to pre form a bubble shape 4 a vertical lift to bring the buck upwards into the bubble.

one of the fastest ways would be to go the painted boots route... angelus leather paints work really well. less hassle than other methods. otherwise you always have the option of getting on the waiting list for Tkboots.com

I would like to point out that in many ways this hobby has rewards beyond accuracy... as mans correctly points out having fun is his main purpose... and if that's the result then fun is the best goal anyone can have. I shared my opinion in a bold and possibly blunt way, and I'm sure that I could have been even more to the point. walt is one of the people here in this hobby that has done quite a bit of exactly what mans is speaking of here it's correct that I don't speak for anyone but my own opinions, I do care quite a bit about the TK armor, and I've been watching this hobby progress from the FX armor all the way up to the EFX and anovos offerings. I've been involved in costuming for most of my adult life, starting in the early 70's with star trek and other types... soon we'll all have the option of having screen used armors. my goal with my post is to point mans to individuals in sweden, for we have quite a group of fine individuals in that region of the world, and the education of the form, can be quickly seen when he get's the chance to see it firsthand. having a passion, and having fun each has it's own reward... I was just a little shocked when I saw the armor that mans has created and instead of bringing a critical mindset to the placment of his parts, shapes and so on.. I tried to explain the main purpose behind the FISD (accuracy) and I tried to explain the main purpose behind the legion itself (charity) I could have been far more critical. I also think that if mans wants to, he can certainly take walt up on his offer to help of all the people around here walt is one of the prime examples of exactly the same kind of passion that mans offers to our community. it's profound the lengths we go to for fun in this hobby, and I do have to say it will be interesting and fun for me to watch this project continue. I'm gathering a series of photographic links, and other links to help out. there will be a series of clickable links for mans to consider, with the help of this great resource the FISD. links from original armor LFL ( a comparison between the original suit, and the suit designed and built by shepperton design studios) tk caleb's section - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/15-lucas-film-archives-tkcaleb/ joe r- section - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/16-lucas-film-archives-joer/ tour- a suit that was created after the film was made as a promotional tool. (note the differences in design details) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/9-star-wars-identities-tour-suit/ RS props an original suit and a series of photos (an incredible find, owners of an original suit) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/59-the-rs-suit/ www.starwarshelmets.com a great resource for looking at comparisons between different makers and the different films divided into sections original screen used - http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-stormtrooper-helmets-sub-submenu.htm licensed replicas (not always the best in quality or even accuracy) - http://www.starwarshelmets.com/Stormtrooper-Armor-helmet-licensed-replica.htm fan made versions- http://www.starwarshelmets.com/fan-made-stormtrooper-armor-submenu.htm armor comparisons- http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-stormtrooper-comparisons.htm some interesting videos while it's not credited very well, this is an interesting video showing AA working on forming helmets https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09CmSZVBIj0 shepperton design studios- this producer worked on the original film, but after production ended he was forced to attempt to re-create his designs. http://originalstormtrooper.com/ the battle between LFL and shepperton design studios http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shepperton_Design_Studios the original sculptors Liz moore - http://www.rspropmasters.com/liz-moore/ Brian muir - http://www.brianmuirvadersculptor.com/star-wars---a-new-hope-1.html some more interesting information about shepperton design studios a facebook group started by brian muir. and brian is not happy! Walt's amazing journey to making child's armor, with a flair for accuracy. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19914-kids-armor/ as you can see just from this gathering of information there is a huge amount of materials passionately created by individuals filled with the desire to continue the stormtrooper costume. I applaud your interest, and I hope that this gathering of information is helpful in your desire to have fun.

the first step in our hobby is extreme accuracy. every element needs to be carefully sculpted and the shape and scale is very very important. the second steps are assembly and materials. so that being said there are many who start out by looking at screenshots from the film, and sculpting parts out of plaster. then they go through a process of taking that and creating molds from stronger materials. usually the materials used are heat resistant resins the armor you show in your photos is very different from what we're used to looking at here. in our hobby we frown upon suits without a certain degree of "screen used" styles. we also frown upon taking molds from other makers... it's usually best to simply purchase a suit and build it up. but making copies is frowned upon greatly. it takes most people several thousands of dollars to make molds, and refine them for scale and shape. personally it made me sad to witness the waste of time and materials shown in your project. take accuracy on as a challenge here and meet up with members in the 501st legion in your area. witnessing armor in person will help take you to the next level, but remember... this is not a business... it's a hobby that supports charity... not financial gain.

wow.. I never thought the counter I sold you actually still worked!

actually I have 4 scopes. 2 are on e-11's and 2 are being preped to drop into rubber for making castings. my goal is to have cold cast brass scopes with hollow bodies and glass lenses. I'm just mad busy making 5 suits of armor. if you look in the sale section there is a person selling a scope... from germany. I already purchased one of the 2 he was selling, and I'm waiting for it to arrive...

ding ding!~ a winner!

i have a reai m38 and an m19 and i'm bragging about it!

paul, when I look at the whole "permission" issue.. I see two levels of thought here... the first level of thought is looking at the issue in the wrong perspective where some older members are given status because of their longevity in the hobby, so people like TE are considered by you "open source". and cap is also considered in this same vein as "open source"... this forum, and the legion does not have the permission to give advice to members, or even non members any 'rights' to recast the intellectual property owned by LFL or disney... where do we get the idea that we have permission to grant? the second level of thought was handled correctly and legally by companies like master replicas, hasbro, windlass studios, and countless other companies who purchase the actual legal rights to produce products. my point here, is that not even the 501st legion, or the FISD has the right to suggest to anyone that making and selling products in the star wars universe, with the intent for non profit, or profit. how do we get the idea in this hobby that we have any permissions to grant? just because TE or CAP products might be being produced, does not mean they have the rights to say anything about anything. I posted a thread on the legion boards about my personal agreement with you on this topic... I would like to see LFL and disney offer a pathway for existing members of the 501st legion, or longtime supporters of the legion be given a way to send money for products "POST SALE" so that people like TM, ATA, AP, far away creations, and many other legion members to simply make our products, and send in extra profits to LFL/DISNEY. if we could open up the dialog process I'm sure that people like me, or others who make for example leatherwork, or metalwork, or models, or costume parts could apply for what I called an "open source" licensing program where we mark up our products above cost and send the funds into the property holding company. this would allow the simple and small scale hobby oriented business minded producer to not have to come up with milliions of dollars in advance money. if this program could be negotiated, people who have long time supported legion members, or even legion members who have been providing products could be listed, approved and signed up for a massive legion push to get our hobby out into the open, allow for sales, and profits sent to the property owner. as it stands now I don't want to see pepakura armor, or people simply sculpting helmets and armor molds out of the blue, some people actually think they can make movie accurate stuff here... and usually that's just not the case. even TM, who made his own sculpts... had to use TE, GINO, and AP and other sources as a visual basis for his sculpts... so even that was done in the process of using recast, or non approved sources of materials to get even close to accurate. why do we, in this hobby feel like anyone has the right to give permission? so on one hand I think we could open up the hobby in a massive way, but on the other I don't think that just because someone makes a sculpt of yoda... he has the rights to sell copies of it. sure... he can pop it on the shelf in his office... but make copies and sell em? ((and believe me... I've seen some amazing yoda sculpts out there on the RPF!!!))

The bapty stunt guns you mention here were actually real sterlings firing blanks that are special made for blowback open bolt guns. the muzzle flash speaks of the overpowdered charge. the physical firing system was simply the real thing. the guns used for firing blanks were used in the film "the spy who loved me" one of my favorite films in the bond series.

I use a strip of aluminum over the center of the strip, if it's 1" wide strip then I use a 1/2" metal strip. then I use long carpenters C clamps to press the join down. even with this, you can get uneven joins depending upon how smooth the parts are, as said above, sanding and test fitting the joins is very important. for edge strips like on the backs of shins I simply use a row of clamps and put the clamps all together in a row if the clamps are over tightened, as in the case of screw clamps you have to balance the pressure applied. here's a series of photos of the clamps I use http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-deep-throat-c-clamp-45917.html I have about 5 of different sizes for thighs, and smaller types for forearms and shins. magnets have to be really strong to get the results you might need. even with this process there can be gaps, it's not easy to get them flat in every case. getting the glue all the way to the edges, and wiping down the seams, and following up with novus polish 3 and 2 seems to work well.