TK bondservnt

I think it looks better when the T track fills the hole, rather than being bent to it's edge. it covers the hole more, and it looks much better! nice enough for me at this point! I'm getting ready to try thse bad boys out on a pipe build!

THAT IS MY next new suit. I know for sure I could mod it into a ball of melted fabric and foam!

looks good to me.

you would do a lot better if you purchased from a different maker, those helmets are not accepted for EIB applications. many stormtroopers are upgrading their helmets, that's why you see those helmets for sale. ATA, AP, TM or another maker is your best option to go.

The FX helmet is not EIB acceptable. you would have to upgrade if you wanted to become expert infantry. ATA, TE2 and TM and AP are all acceptable helmets with small modifications on some listed brands.

hmm... looks funny.

it's the whole last step of polishing the paint with the wet sand! then the novus or T-cut burnishes it out. shine shine shine!

now if we could only index the search feature, and have it give results on keywords.

after talking with blastmaster, who put together a couple of power cells. I have the parts numbers and photos to show how he put them together. thanks AL.

thanks noel! I'll be headed over to your neck of the galaxy soon enough! then you can give me the business when I make my less than accurate sandy. of course I will make it the best replica I can... but I'll probably fail! hahahahah...

you're so close... if you just took that one more nudge, you'd nail it!

I saw a tutorial where a guy used blocks of wood and just attached leather panels to them. nailed in the stud, and whammo, instant ammo pouches!

e 6000 works fine on ABS, but with styrene hips it softens the plastic, and warps. does plastic weld do that? I would think that plastic weld would melt styrene even more! it works fine if you keep it thin, but thin is just not as strong. e6000 is like rubber cement when thin. what type of glue will not react to metals in contact with hips? it sure would be nice to know a type of glue that will not react to snaps, and create heat warping from webbing. I've even noticed that hips does not stand up well under clamping forces in a glue situation. and then when you combine a painted surface, with glue and clamping force, you end up with less than desireable results!! pressure, heat during curing and paint and hips turns into a soupy mess.. like water until the glue cures a little, and the plastic stays like butter. then you're forced to use bondo or somthing to fix it. or just take that ruined armor part and make it into a zombie trooper part. I think e6000 is fine for pure styrene on styrene, but put too much, or add another ingredient and too much glue, and too much clamping force can really have bad results. can anyone suggest a better glue for snap tabs? thanks for the post below! I'll try some tests with both types of glues on my upcoming styrene build.

if it's a stunt lid, then it should be just a little different color white because that's the way it was done for the films.

looks like a clean build to me. the angle of the faceplate determines it's overall look. if you drilled the holes out exactly as AP has them then you get the look he intended. you of course can modify your faceplate angle to drop the brow, raise the brow of course changing the angle of how the tubes match. this of course changes the ear flange trimming for reducing extreme ear gap.

very clean idealized build! nice job! do you have a photo from the direct rear?

E-6000 and styrene react to produce heat warping on snap tabs! while e6000 and ABS don't have as strong a reaction! e6000 needs to be used in a large bead. it's like a flexible but hard type of 'rubberized' cement. does anyone else have the heat reaction and snap tabs problem with hips?

yes. if you need any help PM me and we can chat.

styrene and e 6000 have heat issues. paint and glue nver go hand in hand.

when ANH gets split back into 2 versions again, I'd be triple? with the HWT in progress I'd be quad? then all that I'd need is the coveted but not often acomplished ROTJ!

this is the way to go! great way to have it exactly resemble your own body type! all we have to do is get the stuffing right? do we add apples and celery to the stuffing and cook at 350d until tender?

I am very glad that our detachment leader has seen fit to "open source" the cloak and dagger information of the past. it gives a great balance to new troopers to make a clear and educated decision. recasters are eliminated at some point by transparency of information.

I've always been a blaster nut. I'd like to suggest the "cold cast" method of using resin's with powders placed into them to make the casting the color of metal. brass powder for the end cap, scope and front sight, and aluminum, or gun metal for the body. this would make the castings silver colored and brass colored. simply painting them with black and sanding down would make them instantly looking like a blaster. the hard part, is customs, and laws in your region. I guess making the tip orange, might help in that regard, that and making sure that the barrell is solid. best thing to do is get your customs department, and firearms dept. to give to you instructions on how to properly create star wars related "movie prop" replicas. like panda says, make them white and red.

this is my life! glad you're behind me, and we'll always be brothers in plastic arms.

great details!