TK bondservnt

careful with glue and trim. you can leave a visible mark on the rubber from the inside that will show as a dimple on the outside. just a small drop with no pressure applied should do the trick!

sounds like it would be fun to see a traffic monitor~~!

I think it's a good point. if we difference the colors of the traps and tears on an esb lid, and we ask for tubestripes decals to be different. it's possible that the vocoder could be added as a "may have" it's a lot of difference between an ANH lid and an ESB lid. we also have the ears, and rank bar differences to consider. ESB lids have quite a bit of subtle differences. differences between anh and esb ear rank bar more than one, and painted in the depression not on the bar frown black tubestripes one decal colors different on the decals for traps tears vocoder shape is different eyes cut deeper near the temples my 2 cents!

I used velcro to attach the parts to my helmet, this way one fan system for all my 5 helmets.

lovin it.

also could fit ap with sidegap shims

I usually take most of the front faceplate and cut. the back n cap does not really need a trim. about a 1/4" or less really makes a difference.

put the snaps on the belt first then line up the snaps from that to the plastic.

I have both as well. the abs is much better.

my usual reply is it's them.... BLAST EM!

would be great if you had a broken speeder bike to walk with.

thats part of the problem with the mk2 doopy do. he filled the top last hole where it should be open for the sight rail.======== the one on the bottom is right. the top one is a my position for a sight rail that's in the "same location" the bottom one shows the correct position with a real scope and hengstler. the top one is pvc and resin and the bottom one is full resin with real scope and hengstler.

actually if you count the ESB london prop store version there are 4 types of ESB blaster.

there used to be a lightbox feature on site? but it's gone now.

it's gonna be great to see the details of the exact illustrations used in a CRL! don't use the book cover as a basis seems to be his concept! woo hoo! somthing to do with my armor when it yellows besides a sandy!

The promo version ESB blaster is a resin cast made from a sterling with the following details: muzzle tip is only one circle with no bolts and no bayonet ring. T Tracks along left side cover the rear holes next to the folding stock. D ring and mount are removed. Greeblies added to both sides of the resin body. sight rail is resin, and has different details. magazine release removed from magazine well. no charging handle no open slot or spring visible, only a faint outline that varied in depth and detail. Clearly the blaster shown above is a modified REAL sterling, you can see holes in the barrel vents next to the folding stock, and you can also clearly see that the folding stock is real. As well you can see the magazine release, which the promo/greeblie version does not have. many times the bolt, charging handle and trigger was removed on real sterlings in the film. none of the promo versions have the details shown in your photo. all promo version ESB blasters were SOLID resin casts. here are photos showing my build with a doopy do's version 1 kit, separate bolt and parts. and Tango D Fett's resin add on sight rail and greeblies. "pugman" has a real ESB blaster and tango created the sight rail and greeblies to allow blaster builders to make this version. I can make up one of these blasters, probably 2, as I have all the parts from tango and doopy do.

only elements other than that are what luis suggests. the backs of the thighs could be looked at a little more closely great build! nice clean assembly! " sólo los elementos que no son lo que sugiere luis. las espaldas de los muslos podrían considerarse un poco más cerca gran generación! Niza Asamblea limpio! "

wow

such a small amount of heat is needed, just a couple of passes over a hot stove for 20 seconds or less allows you to curve it by hand. you don't have to get it very hot to follow a natural curve.

yep... I've been sharing that link with a few people. Unique canes also has some sterling stuff... real sterling demill with resin scope and aluminum rail.

what martin said! the inner diameter of the doopy do MK2 kit is much smaller than it should be. casey at doopy do's has added a PVC pipe to the inside of the resin cast.

you can try gluing one side and then letting the other side overlap but with the TOP having a false strip to 'cover' the join. but really you want to trim the forearm with your arm bent and flexed, as your muscles will enlarge with your arm bent. you should glue both sides together if you can. just trim the forearm so that it is cut with both parts meeting with a cut exactly your arm size. then you put 15mm strips over the join. you can put an inside strip to help make it stronger. tape both sides together so that your hand fits. bend your arm over your head to test. mark the parts where they overlap and cut that off. tape the join from the inside with white duct tape. center and clamp the finishing strip over the join from the outside. apply magnets or clamps to hold the finish strip. when dry remove the white tape from the inside... or leave it?

i wear silk gloves inside them. wicks away sweat. a little dish soap rinse and let soak in cold water. you can always prop them up on a fan for a few minutes and let them air dry. if you roll up the cuff they will stand up a little.

I would purchase only with paypal and all the vetted sellers on this site have the RULES to follow: only items on hand and ready to ship. this assures that everyone gets fast and reliable sales!

billy has great advice on that thread. but I'd move the hengstler so that the eagle lines up with the front foot of the sight. the grouping that billy shows puts the hengstler a little to far away from the power cells. SEE HOW close together I put em? looks much better! ----------