ukswrath

Good point however, with the exception of a couple areas most armor have the same general information when it comes to where to trim and connect. You'll be ok Michael, there's a lot of folks here to help. You mentioned you started a build thread, perfect.

Alright Josh, Congratulations brother!

I'll be glad to help when you're ready

Whatever fan you use mounting them with velco eliminates just about all vibration noise.

Yes however, doing this will effect the outer visual, meaning the outer return edge corners will be uneven top to bottom. If you're going to shim it then ensure the corner is uniform the full length of the thigh. Also, you'll need to duplicate the same on the other thigh so that both legs are uniform. Hope this helps

Well naturally I'm biased to all my electronics They're sold on multiple platforms and websites. Here's my "Go to" thread where you can find links to just about anything.

Hey David welcome to the FISD

Looking fantastic Davin. I have a few recommendations. A. Reduce the gap between your biceps and forearms, it should be roughly 1/4". B. I noticed you have some excessive return edge on the following items: Thermal detonator caps, chest plate (lower edge), and top/side edge of the sniper knee. C. The vertical AB buttons could use a little touchup. They should be a bit larger in size and clean edges like the center plate buttons. D. The thigh ammo belt rear/upper edge should be squared. The bottom can remain rounded. E. If you're applying for Stunt your hovi tip interiors should be white. Good luck trooper

Glad you like them. Good luck with your application.

Welcome to the FISD Aaron

Beautiful! Also, love the stock weathering on the T21

Lets remove Hyperfirm, they're no longer in business from what I understand. Praetorian blaster made in the last couple years are very accurate and highly detailed. I can provide photos for the OTTK and R1TK Definitely expensive

Yea they're not cheap. They usually take a couple days or more to respond.

You can align either side. That said, if you look at the movie armor photos above you'll notice the elbow side is offset and tapered with the cover strip extending to the longest side. If it's easier for you to go this route then have at it and trim the wrist side even however, if you feel aligning the wrist and trimming the elbow easier then that's ok too. As you'll see in the following photos they really don't have to be perfect. Left arm Right

As Glen illustrated the iComm can be placed just about anywhere so long as you have sufficient cabling

1. Aker input to iComm output 2. iComm input to hardwired or wireless mic. (note: when using a wireless mic there will be a microsecond delay when speaking) 3. Power on the Aker and adjust volume If this doesn't work remove the iComm and test audio system. If works without it then the 3.3v battery inside the iComm housing is probably dead and will need to be replaced. Hope this helps

If I could one more detail when setting snaps using the setter and anvil, use it on a hard flat surface, the harder the better if possible. I typically use the concrete floor in my garage for snaps that will be used in areas I'm not too concerned with scratches, a jaw vise mounted on my work bench or a flat Teflon plate for more delicate areas.

Looking good Greg

Fantastic job on your build Brad, you'll be a fine addition to the garrison.

Welcome to the FISD, looks like you've been given some great advice so far.

Hey Thomas welcome to the FISD. You have a lot of great questions, at first glance your garrison's GML officer will probably require you to make a few adjustments to your armor before basic approval, maybe not. I would contact them and inquire. As for the higher levels, or even basic for that matter the CRL is the best place to start to get some answers. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt Looking forward to seeing you at EIB and above

To add, Praetorian blasters (I own a few) are very high in detail, I mean I still try and flip the safety lever every time I grab it because it looks so realistic (i'm a real firearm owner btw so it comes natural). Anyway, I've dropped it onto concrete from over 6' without and single detail failure. On the other hand I've dropped 3d printed blasters 3' to carpet and watch them shatter into pieces. Lastly are the metal, naturally they look and feel like the movie prop but weigh 5+ lbs. No thanks. Whatever you decide to go with make sure it's durable, accurate and most importantly you'd be happy with it.

That would be a bummer however, with the onslaught of 3D printers and print files widely available it wouldn't surprise me either.