Sly11

Nice job on the boots [emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looks awesome, see if you can get those shoulder bells to sit a little more forward, so you see less black between them and the chest, but really can't see any reason why your armour won't get approval. Great job. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Will try that, thought I did but perhaps maybe I didn't. Thank you. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking good, belt clips are much better too. The painted area on the buttons should be approx 11mm across, they were also hand painted in the movie , so I recon you are good to go. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You need to ask Steve about one of his accurate Sterling magazines to replace the one that comes with the DD kit, he does a run on them every now and then, they are great, but you will need to make a few mods for it to fit properly, it is well worth it . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hey Brian, I agree with Steve. If you can loosen the fit of the butt cap, when you put the spring in it will push that cap back slightly and give a good fit. Mine actually had a touch too much movement so I used a round adhesive backed floor saver ( the things you stick to the bottom of table and chair legs so they don't mark your floors) stuck it into cap, twisted it on and it sits snug and shows the locking track as per the above image. Can't wait to see your blaster when complete.

That looks sensational, you must be pleased! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Your belt still looks good to me, what's actually wrong with it? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulations on a great build and welcome to the ranks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

When you get back to your fore arms, trim the return edge off on the wrist end. Re tape the halves so you can just get your hand through the wrist, tape then close up the elbow end. It's easy if you have someone there to help tape it up. As long as you can get your hand through the wrist end, the forearm should now be sized to fit . Where the two halve overlap each other, find the middle and mark both halves at both ends with a pencil. Know draw astraight line down the length of both halves joining those marks, this is your trim line. If you are still unsure, draw another line parallel to those you have marked at about 5mm or so to the outside of your trim lines and cut along those. This gives you a larger fit, but you have an extra 5 mm on each side of each half to play with for more trimming if needed. Hope this makes some sense, and helps a little. Once you have done one, the other will be a breeze, but definitely take that return edge off the wrist end and redo your sizing. Good luck with your build, we are here to help. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Man, great paint job on the bucket! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice work on your thermal det. If I can make one suggestion. For centurion level you may need to square up the corners of your belt clips a little. If unsure , just ask Gazmosis as he is the one that most probably will review your EIB and Cent apps. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice clean looking build so far, and elastic on the drop boxes is a good choice as sometimes they can get caught on your thighs and that little bit a stretch makes a difference. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I agree with you Steve, on my recent troop I had a little fellow come up and give me a hug, he told me I was his best friend, it was an awesome feeling to make someone's day. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My wife just hates everything about Star Wars full stop. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If I can just offer a piece of advice , paint your ab buttons first then glue the plates on later. Trust me , it's a lot easier to paint and turn the small parts then it is once you have glued them on. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Damn auto correct, I meant icomm, and memorex. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Mine works fine Steve. You are correct, it needs to sit close to your mouth. There is a white line on one side of the mic near the foam tip, just make sure that it faces you and is not twisted around. I actually hold the mic in my teeth when putting my helmet on and haven't had problems, am about to trial it with an icon I have borrowed from another Trooper and will possibly also go with a memories wireless set up so I don't have to deal with the mic cord from the helmet. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Definitely paint them white. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Peter, ok you will need to remove the entire return edge including the bit in the dimple. At the elbow end, you want to remove that return edge on the inside where you will bend your arm or it's going to pinch (armour bite). Draw a trim line following the end contour and trim that extra bit off and give the edge a light sand. Looks like your are about ready to start glueing some cover strips on. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looks great, well done Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I think you may have two options here. 1. You could trim some off the bottom of your shins, to shorten them up a little, and make it easier to walk and bend the legs. The bottom of the shins has no return edge to remove so an easier adjustment. Just follow the contour or shape that is there. 2. Trim the tops down on the thighs. In doing this you will remove the return edge. You can create a new one with a crafting iron, and some sanding, but it is a little tricky. Otherwise have no return edge on the tops of the thighs. How much movement do you have as far as bending the knees is concerned? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking sharp. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Get some photos up so we can give better suggestions. You may need to use a wider cover strip at the rear, which is permissible for submission even at higher levels. What width are your current cover strips and is it a ANH build? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Even on my PC the browser plays the file but there is no way to download or save the file. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk