Ripper_L

Anovos has a nice booklet as PDF but also no video. I don't know about the RS suits - what is included in the strapping kit?

definitely good. Some guys lay fiberglass inside of every part to make the armor sturdier. To the topic: Estimate a waiting time of ~1 year. I'm not a pro about the TFA kits, but for the ANH kits, I can say there are good quality kits on the market with ~ the same price and you get it at once. But if you've got the time I'd wait until they are on sale (Maybe Rogue One Premiere or May the 4th). Then it makes a huge difference to other vendors.

Well done! Welcome aboard and have lots of fun!

I have the same issue on my phone :/ HTC One M9 with Android 6.0<br><br> Please post here, if you solve the problem.

Congratulations for the approval! Next step - Expert Infantry Stay on target!<br><br> I hope you'll have a lot of fun and get great experiences from your membership. You will notice soon, that the 501st legion is a worldwide family, it's worth to be in

For ESB Troopers the buttons should be integrated to the abdomen plate. The armor is definitely 501st approvable, if it's assembled in the right way. But you're right, there are more accurate kits on the market. If you want to get to higher ranks as Expert Infantry or Centurion (what I highly recommend ) you should consider to buy a more accurate kit of armor.If your only goal is to get into the legion (maybe as cheap as possible), you can get approved with this armor. But be aware, that it's not a high end kit! The choice is yours...

So you're working together with Joseph in France?<br><br> I have to admit, that the quality of your plastic is very good, I bought my armor from (I think it's your older project) stormtroopercity and after 5 years, I only have one small crack in the belt.<br><br> I've seen your new kit (a friend of mine ordered it) and it's a huge step towards accuracy. Did you make completely new molds? Or are they still based on the FX armor?<br><br> You supplied Boogiestorm? They look terrible :0 But I guess, they have to - otherwise it's impossible to move like that

Great, progress! The helmet is huge! O_o<br> But looking very good so far.

Damn it, is there any other page, where we can see all the EIB and Centurion Members?

ESB kits have the ab buttons included. ANH kits have the ab buttons glued on. Also the handguards differ. CfO is only for RotJ

Next step - Centurion! Stay on target. You've done very well and I hope you will have a great time with your armor!

No update for a while now, I'm sorry - we had to put together another TK kit So here is, how we continued: (At the end of this post you'll see our first pull!) First we tried to improve the mold with more and different clay. Here you can see the backside Then we wanted to make a silicon negative. Therefore we had to build this cube: The silicon was ugly, but (we thought) it worked pretty well. Meanwhile the silicon was drying, we started to build our vacuum machine. there were a lot of holes to drill This is how the silicon looked like, after drying: Unfortunately our original mold broke during this process, so we decided to make a new one out of plaster of paris using the new silicon negative mold. The new mold was great, but the silicon was rubbish. Now we had to work on the new mold, sharpen the edges, and smooth the surface. To get the styrene pulled deep inside the eyes, teeth and mic tips, we decided to drill some holes through there: Afterwards, we continued with our vacuum machine and some fun Since we didn't want to have an ugly vacuum machine, we decided to paint it! This should become our heating element: Those two 1500W spot lights are very old and produce more heat than light To get a smoother surface and protect it from breaking, we decided to coat our mold with some blue wall paint: We finished the vacuum table and the heating element: This was our whole setup: We started heating up the styrene, controlling the temperature with a laser gun: This is unfortunately not shown on a picture, but we decided to cover the styrene with aluminium sheets, which made it heaten up much faster! Then we tried our very first pull... and our vacuum table... ... simply imploded! The damage was massive: Also on our mold: But I think the outcome is not too bad for a first trial: But we are not giving up! We started to make the backside of the helmet and repaired our faceplate. Although we will have to smooth the surface down much more!!!

Maybe you can also compare your armor with some other members armor. If the color matches, ask for the maker! I'd rather recommend to buy from another vetted maker, than from eBay...

Anybody has a source for the 75mm thigh elastic? Can't find it anywhere.

Canadian army pelican case. This box is a beast. Totally badass and stable as nothing else. Most people in our Garrison use Stanley boxes and are jealous of my pelican case.

FX armor can be made to Expert Infantry status (I'm the living example). The armor shown on eBay is a good start, even if it's not 100% accurate. In your case, I'd make this armor 501st approved. It's a good practice before building a high standard kit. Also you'd be onboard already, so it's easier to get in touch with the right people. Just my opinion, think of it.

Just saw this here. They are not copying from each other. It's the same company. The two guys are settled in France and UK. But they don't sell the recasted FX anymore. I had some contact with them and it seems like they made their own molds now. Material is very stable, but the armor is not perfectly accurate. (But much better than a FX is) Maybe worth it to make a new comparison.

shot it on eBay, PM'd you. I also got a new vice, so things will go easier from now on (I hope...)

I hope these will be made available again. They look great and I think lots of members would like to have their own certificate on the wall.

I want to use the bondo to fill the gaps, where I glue the parts together... especially between the pipe and the handle...

What type of bondo do you use?<br> There are some different types at the hardware store...<br><br> Glazing and spot putty or rather body filler?<br><br> Looking for something to attach aluminum blaster parts to each other!

Sorry, My fault - should be working now!

Me and a friend started to have a look about "the foundry" and we could not resist to give it a try. So we will try to make at least our own helmets and maybe also our own armor. We have a complete FX armor as a bad example here and an Anovos kit as a good example for comparison. We also have a CAP helmet, which we can use for comparison. Since the vacuum table build - shown by mynock's Den - looks pretty easy, we decided to start with the difficult part. The mold making! I guess the most difficult mold ist for the helmet face plate, so here is what we've done so far: HQ-Pic We took a piece of would, wrapped paper and aluminium foil arround it and formed the (air drying) clay on top. HQ-Pic this was all formed by hand and with the old kitchen knife, later we decided to use some more tools.... HQ-Pic details became more and more decent.... HQ-Pic especially when we decided to use a nail, a spoon and a swiss army knife as tools HQ-Pic This is our current status. We left the mold for drying overnight and today we'll try to smooth the surfaces by sanding. The plan is to make a silicon form to produce molds out of plaster of paris for the vacuum table. We have two shop vacs and two 1000W spotlights, that we want to use for our vac machine. Please give me some review and tips. Thanks a lot, Danny TK-55550 //edit: HQ-Pics added

I've realized I'll be unable to build that from scratch out of aluminium, so I decided to BUY the handle. Now I have five original Sterling handles, that I will use for my aluminium blasters HQ-Pic I also made this tiny thing here: HQ-Pic I hope you like it

Still working on it - there were just some other projects in between....