T-Jay

Good progress, Marc. I like how you take care of the details

Hi Ahmad, this start looks very promising You made your homework. If you decide to take a Completion Set, you can remove the following items from your list, because they are in the set already: - D-Ring - super glue - putty (green stuff) - Aluminum flat bar - and the hex-screws for the muzzle and grip Just send a PM if you are interested... Checking your tools-list, I noticed you are planning to paint the grip in satin black and the gun body in gloss black. May I suggest to read chapter #28 (painting) and possibly swap this? The T-tracks on the original guns in the movie were made of black plastic. Not sure how these will look like in gunmetal grey but that color would definitely be a good choice for the inner bolt and the ejection port area. Please don't get me wrong, I don't want to tell you how to build your blaster. Just wanted to mention a few things. Whatever you do, if you work at the same level as your first posting above, this will become a very good E-11

Hi Marc, chapter #31 (measurements) contains some of the information you are looking for. Regarding the little knob on the magazine: I used a 5mm LED to build that. Just make sure, it does not stick out all the way - only a little bit.

For the Rogue One trooper this is screen accurate (referring to what we have seen so far in the teaser).

Hi Marc, you're on a good way so far. Keep the pictures coming...

Good question and not easy to answer. According to my information, the armors in the movie were made from matt or semi gloss ABS and looked shiny because of the lighting on the set. The helmets were made from khaki-green HDPE plastic and then painted white to match the armor. If you have various materials available, I would personally not mix them. As far as I know, none of the vetted armor makers does that (maybe except the customer asks for it). Regarding gloss or semi gloss, I would always go for semi, because the gloss ABS looks like the trooper just stepped out of the water. It is very shiny. Hope this helps and maybe someone else will chime in...

My first blaster: full resin kit from DoopyDoo's with some modifications Lucky#Eleven: Phoenix Props pipe kit with many add-ons and modifications - from Sterling to E-11 (with open bolt)

My DoopyDoo's full resin build with real counter and some modifications is 1.160 gramms / 2,56 lb My Phoenix Props pipe build with working counter, hollowed scope and many modifications is 1.040 gramms / 2,29 lb Links to both blasters can be found in the signature below. Curious if anybody has a DoopyDoo's pipe kit with PVC pipe and a hollowed scope...

The weathering topic splits into paint chips and wear & tear. A combination of both makes it believable. You can check the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference for details (see link in my signature). And like others already said: less is more. The degree of weathering on your pictures looks good.

Please also check the reference pictures for that ammo pack on your knee

Good luck, Christian! Although it looks like you won't need it Keeping fingers crossed...

No worries. If you haven't sealed the makeup-weathering under a clear coat, it will fade and only remains in believable spots. Good work

Looks like you had some fun weathering this thing

Woohooo! That looks nice! Theo, maybe you don't have to glue the small lens. In my case it was secured in place by the retainer ring and did not need any glue. Only the big lens did, because this was smaller than the retainer ring and kept falling out.

"Utiniii" Those pictures are great, Brian. You thought of everything. Even black gloves with fur. Looking cool. May I ask what exactly you used the audio electronics for? Blaster sounds? Or Jawa voices? Just curious...

Hi Sean, the reticle lenses have a very small engraving which is incredibly hard to read for the human eye. A magnification is mandatory to clearly see it. No chance without that. The lenses from the monocular cause a sufficient magnification to objects that are in the correct distance (like the internal prisms). I simply installed the reticle lens in that place, so the engraving can be seen much better. If they really work? Not exactly, because the image is upside down and left to right. And it would take two very special and small prisms to correct this - until someone else finds a different way to get it working (would love to see that). But at least there is a "tunnel" in the scope with light shining through and everybody who ever had this blaster in hands so far, noticed that and also discovered the reticle lens just seconds later. The lenses were bought online and I am currently wondering, if they would be some useful additions to the Completion Sets, as the monoculars are already a part of it. Just saying...

Glad to see you made some good progress since your last posting. Use the cold winter days to stay inside and make some more

Thank you very much for your words, Brian. Completing this build, brings back the same feelings as 2.5 years ago. Seems like every blaster becomes something special to the builder during the whole process. Having it finished, feels a bit like the end of a long vacation: After enjoying a good time, you are somewhat sad to leave. But there is also interest to get back to the things that were neglected for a while. I look at this with a laughing and a crying eye Each resin kit is individual and I think my blaster has by far not reached the limits of this particular kit. Especially the electronics were just implanted, instead of using an arduino board or something else with additional LEDs. And I could imagine, we will see movable bolts AND electronics in some blasters in the future…

Looks very interesting. Are those lenses flat or domed on one side?

Update #27 - Cables without labels We now come to the last chapter of this build, which covers the electronics. As shown in update #08, I had planned to run the wires like this: Meanwhile I decided to place the speaker inside the end cap, because this is easier with the wiring and will hopefully sound better inside the receiver tube. Also swapped positions of the LEDs (as the lower LED is easier to see in the front muzzle). Placed the circuit board in the middle, because all cables had to meet there. Starting with the LEDs on the front, I wanted to run the wires along the inner barrel. To get it out of the receiver tube, I had to remove the magazine and bullets. After these were out (and broken) it was still not possible to remove the inner barrel, because the curved ends of the T-tracks prevented it from sliding anywhere. That means I had just damaged my magazine for nothing Had to find a way to install the cables while the barrel is inside the receiver… Prior to the permanent installation, it was time for a quick test to ensure everything is working correctly. Used these nice thin wires because black is best to hide in the blaster, but ended up with a lot of “cables without labels”. However, it worked and that really made me happy As a last step, I completed this blaster by (again) adding the rail with scope and counter. Then suddenly it was all done. Here is one last short video that shows how the electronics work. The rotary switch clicks nice and although the light from the red and blue LEDs is hard to see, it is very bright as a matter of fact. So, this is it. We’re done. I would like to end this update with a little addition that has recently been given to me by Stefan (Turrican). A very fine gift which perfectly fits to this Lucky#Eleven. Thank you very much. Enjoy your weekend, Stormtroopers and Cadets Feel free to leave any comments and questions.

Thank you, Alex Whenever you need help to build an E-11 for one of your costumes, just let me know. Thanks Michael. Glad you see it that way. I personally think it took much too long (due to the build documentation). But who knows, maybe this helps others… Thanks Ian. Believe it or not, but your freakin’ awesome sniper rifle is still in my head and I can’t get rid of it... Thanks for your words, Henry. A realistic appearance was on top of my list for this build. If that looks believable, you are half-way there. Paint chips and the crinkle paint worked together very well. And I never expected the makeup-weathering to look that nice. Not sure if 200 hours are enough in my case. However, most work was caused by the documentation. I think it is possible to complete the same blaster (without build thread) in 2-4 months.