Dday

Ah, good deal, The ones I've seen in the two cent Heros were much longer, so I wasn't sure, thanks for the confirmation!

Would this seal pass muster for ANH Hero Centurion? The hero seals I see do all the way down to the waist, but I don't see anything in the CRL about going down that far. Neck seal shall include a front and back fabric bib that goes over the undersuit, but does not cover the sides of the body. ------- The rear bib is approximately the same depth as the front.

One thing I wish I had done with my ATA is made the bottom where the two halfs connected longer, for a better connection. It's like Serge says, cut a little and cut more if you need. Most of the side cuts are hidden under the ears anyways, so leaving a little extra isn't a big deal.

I could have sworn that is what I saw posted by someone else, but I"m not 100% about the post form personal experience.

There is a minimum post count required to post in the For Sale section. You can look and PM people for their stuff though. I believe the post count is minimum 5, so you're close.

I think a commission would be your best bet right now, like Mathias said. Someone out there has the time, and since you have already bought the kit, you might as well have it built by someone. There aren't a lot of other options since you are in the UK, vs trying to get on the garrison forums and seeing about someone who wants to sell one locally.

Like you found out already, the drill bit will heat up the rivet, if you spend to much time drilling you will just melt the entire size of the rivet. Use a pair of pliers on the rounded head of the rivet to hold it steady and drill, use a sharp bit and only drill for 2 seconds, then wait 5, then 2 seconds, then wait 5, this way it doesn't heat up to much. It really should only take 2 seconds to cut it back just enough to get it through. You might use a pair of cutters to cut the back off as much as possible, less for the drill to have to get through. I grab the back with pliers and squeeze, then twist, takes the head off and I only have to drill for one second to get it clean past the washer so it can come out.

Panda, you're the bomb. I just used your guide, made it a little bigger in word and cut mine into my blue masking tape, put it on the helmet, pressed it down good to stop leaks and painted, worked like a charm. Waiting for a second coat right now.

If it has only need 3 weeks, you still have the ability to get a paypal refund, then get a darman neck seal from here, faster shipping, custom made and you actually get it.

Yeah, so much for a friendly picture, he is saying, "hey, take a picture of me shooting this TK, that would be funny, harharhar"

I had heard about the "bumpy" cap but wasn't prepared until I started trimming the helmet before I fully realized that "bumpy" is not an understatement. It's bumpy, slightly misshapen, off-center, and uneven. How did they ever work with these things in the 70's... It comes together well once it's finished, but it's a daunting task, pandatrooper and other who have done this build for others to copy are artists, this is NOT an easy task, contrary to what they say. You really have to pay attention to the very fine details to get a helmet looking this good. Then again, isn't that the way with anything though...

I think my biggest problem which I have noticed now that I took it off is there is way to much space between the cap and the face. I'm going to need to cut my rivets and see about adjusting that.

To attach the brow trim, do you just use a drop of CA glue on each end and the middle? I really don't see any other way to affix this to the helmet. Help here please?

Hi David, great build, with the few tweaks that were mentioned above, you'll be on the road to a very solid set of armor. As a tip, not a requirement, you might look into attaching via elastic your biceps and forearms, it will help keep the forearms in the right position relative to the rest of the arm, plus, you won't get bit any more!

Vern, do you make scratch builds, doopy pipe or full doopy, or all of the above?

The magnets are good for the middle sections of long pieces. I would get at least 10, 1/2in or bigger, N52 is the strongest rating. Clamps can't reach into the middle of your thighs, forearms, shins and so on. Magnets are also great for holding snap strips/webbing on.

Just started my ATA build tonight, and have been using this as a guide, amazing post, amazing build! This deserves a sticky in the how-to, if it isn't already!

Oh man, a new thing every day! Thanks dude

From what you can see, it's basically the teeth like TK_Leper said. One big difference in the suit as well is the neck seal. The Hero has more ribs and goes up the back of your neck some and uses a full bib, where the Stunt seal has the same number of ribs all around and only has a small bib. The Hero helmets also have a lower brow profile, more menacing looking then the Stunts. All though some stunts had a low brow also, all heros have a low brow. Not to mention the bubble lenses in a hero helmet.

If you PM him, he will send you all the photos he has of the different neck seals.

Nice that Rob adds the bumps, I've seen a few rivet holes in the wrong spots, and once you've done that, time for a new piece. Fully agree with Mathias, getting that particular piece ready for centurion takes about 2 minutes more then getting it ready for EIB, might as well just do it once and be done. All you need to do is add the rivet holes, add rivet. done. Oh and plus doing the trim of the top and bottom ridge, but that's childs play if you've already assembled the rest of the suit.

Thanks for the answers Karin. Looks like you're on the the home stretch now. It's been a long time coming, love to see them when finished.

The thigh/shin gap seems abnormally large, are you super freakishly tall? Zooming in (grainy but visible) it looks like the rivet was put in just above the ridge line of the thigh armor, where it should be riveted actually in the ridge itself. At least that is how I see most eib/centurion applications have theirs placed.

I would put it on first, see how it fits. Make sure you get it on and fitted as best as possible before cutting it. You won't always know where to trim the proper amounts until the suit is fully on you. So if you don't have to trim right away, don't. The velcro is a nice start so you don't have to make permanent changes to the suit. If you plan on keeping the suit for the long term, do the research on here for the hundreds of suit builds to see how you want to do it. Most people do the velcro on the backs of the shins and forearms, the fronts glued. the rest of the full closed pieces are glued, E6000 style. The good thing about a velcro strapped suit is it's expandable very easily. once you get the suit in the right place, all you need to do is get some measurements and replace the velcro with snaps and straps. They seem to hold better for the long term and give a bit of elasticity to your suit pieces so they can move like you do vs being static, where our bodies are never static. Good luck and I look forward to seeing more of your refit!

Send a message to Darman ( on FISD) he makes seals for all sorts of armor types, stunt, hero, clone, tie, At-At, if it needs a seal, he makes it. Really great prices, fitted to you with the option for a velcro or zipper seal. You can't go wrong.