Dday

Well, turn off the black lights, the armor almost could pass muster!

I hadn't seen your comment before mine came in Karin. so how about this: Hand guards shall be latex-rubber or other flexible rubber like material, the color is to be white or weathered white affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards. Amazing how I can complicate such a simple thing.

The glove was never really in question. Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white Was the only part I am questioning, mostly the painted part. Does naturally white count as painted......If so should the CRL read Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, the color is to be white or weathered white. Similar to the wording for the belts.

We use Harry for Harold/Harald in the US as well, it's the blasted french/English.

Henry is a French name dating from when the British aristocracy spoke French. The English pronunciation for it is "Harry". Other nicknames for Henry are Hank and Hal and Harry is a common British nickname for Henry.

Excellent! Once you have approval, you're set, Gl with the submission, I'll keep my eyes open for it.

Ah, good point, didn't even think about that! You can also use some flexible tape for corners. I never knew this existed until I was shopping for tape the other day. Bought some. It's supposed to go around bends and corners without tearing.

For Centurion TK: Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards. Does this rule out white rubber? I see it can be latex-like (rubber) but it then states painted white, can we argue that white rubber is not the same as painted white? Or would white rubber hands pass muster for centurion?

Geting started is the best place to go. Also you can check the Imperial Commissary sometimes people will sell their helmets there already build and such so you save some time and might get a good deal at the same time.

If missing every rebel in sight is a mark of the best, yes we are. Well, we hit a few of them, but when it comes to Heroes, we have a blind spot apparently, it must have been the force.... damn the force!

A functional metal folding stock that can be modded onto a droopy or resin would be flat out amazing.

The black in the frown area isn't painted. The only painted part there is the grey and the white. The black in the frown is just the darkness inside the helmet, and possibly some black mesh that was glued inside to obscure the wearer from prying eyes.

Great to hear! It's a great place here, full of information and even fuller of people willing to lend a hand. Save your change, then buy a suit, build it and live the dream!

If you are larger you will surely need to get a RT mod suit. He will shim based on your custom sizes, so the armor is the right size from the get go. Look him up and send him a message.

Tony, This guy posted this like 2 years ago and hasn't been back, Great conversation in here, but most people had written it off for dead I think

Well, to be fair, it's not really my idea, I've seen it in other builds. So just something I liked from the way other people built

Hi Jordan. Nice job on the suit. A few pointers I"ve learned while building my suit. Connect the forearms and the biceps together. It looks like the bicep is a touch high, if it's possible to take it down half an inch, I would do this. Then run a strap from the forearm to the bicep. Once this strap is there, it will give you some more wrist movement since they won't be riding so low and will help cover the large elbow gap. In your 3rd picture, I see the back of the right calf has a pointy end sticking out at the bottom, you'll want to shave that and curve it as best as possible, just so it's not scraping your boot and poking your heel while moving. The left shin looks a bit odd at the connection, like it's really far overlapped. If this is the case, you'll want to try and even that out to butt join/cover strip. Your left thigh seems a bit wide around the bottom and your sniper plate is hidden under it. You will have to cut a taper in the thighs to remove the cowbell effect and let the sniper plate stay out from behind the thigh. Also, your drop boxes seem a bit low. I'd check out some of the EIB and centurion submissions for a good distance. I know you don't want to go for EIB/cent right now, but this is a quick fix that will make things better for you in the long run. Good job, keep tweaking!

If he has offered to shim/trim based on your listed sizings, I would take him up on it. It will save you a lot of time in the build. As your first kit, it would be nice to do it yourself, but the comfort of knowing that it's gonna fit out of the box is huge.

You need to be approved by an Admin. They need to cross check your TK number and list you as an already approved Stormtrooper in their database. Then you can put in for EIB.

ah, ok. Def replace the chest. ATA makes a very affordable chest piece, contact supertrooper here on FISD for quotes on pieces. there are several other sources for pieces you will need trooperbay.com and the ongoing sales forum are great spots to get gear.

The hand guards are also wrong, plus you will need a belt. Oh and a helmet.

What does Presumed Fed mean?

I decided to snap some photos before painting because I'm waiting for the E11 to dry from adding some of the parts on. I've fabricated a new scope rail, the default one isn't meant to attach correctly. Glued on all parts, primed everything. My guess is I can paint in about 2 hours once the E11 has set better. It's pretty warm and dry outside the last few days, so I find the E11 has a good starter set in about 2 hours. Body will be flat black, handle will be gloss black. Once I get the base black down I will paint the bolt silver and maybe add some weathering to the usual places. Overall, not very impressed with the quality of this resin cast, but it's sure easy enough to do. I think if I do this again (which I will with a droopys kit) I'll do more sanding and initial prep, to make the lines smoother, however droopys kit is a much cleaner kit so I probably won't have to bother like on this one. I'm not going to add a hengstler/power cells to this one because I want to resell it and if it's this way, it can be either ANH or ESB. The buyer can pick which they want to do and add the necessary parts. Drilling the holes for hex bolts Ejection cover ended up snapped off due to poor casting and wasn't salvageable. So I cut it off and smoothed the line Added some of the shafts form a couple of used rivets to add some stability to this part. CA glued them in so they don't go anywhere. The primed and glued gun, almost in final state. Just need to paint the scope and rail, final paint the gun, add the parts together, then viola!

He is here on the forums under he name troopermaster. Just start to type it in the PM section and it will autofill.