Dday

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Bucket only currently. they have not allowed to be a face character.

Very nice job, this looks great!

I would donate to get the website moved to a more stable host that doesn't have us waiting minutes to execute searches, and crash so often.

Yes, as Eric said, quite a few 501st and related sites have the same host. They are making bank from us and are crap. ROAD TRIP!

Yes, the center hold on the ears should be a rivet. This river is not seen once the helmet is assembled. It would also be good to get a screw for the mic tips. Drill a hole through the middle of the mictip and insert a domed screw and screw it down from the inside of the helmet. If you just glue them onto the ABs helmet they will fall off.

I love it that you update with new photos showing the evolution of this thing!

A fully made under $150 is like finding a white elephant. It is there, just rare. Likely you will be able to find one in the sale area that someone is selling used. I think the Hyperfirm B grades are 150, but same deal, watch the junkyard for them.

They are just one side of a normal camping snap you find in the crafts store. Same ones you put everywhere else on your armor. It is just the male side that goes here, not the female side.

You know what I found with knurling that everyone with the same kit has...? The sizing looks ok... maybe a touch too big.

It is a legit auction of a built AP helmet. The helmet is a nice build, nice lines, very clean. It really depends on your location. If you are in the UK, it's a good deal as shipping and conversion rates aren't a problem. If you are not in the UK, shipping and conversion rates might not make it worth it. The main thing about AP Helmets is that their mictips are not accurate (says so as well in the auction), but they still look decent.

The suits that Disney and Marvel tour with are generally not ever close to the level we put into ours. Like Eric said above, they are created with movement in mind, but even beyond that, it is about budget, weight durability as well. The Marvel IronMan Tour suit is horrendous as well. It's a really badly proportioned and designed plastic suit. It's injection molded I'm sure and is tough as any plastic toy, so is great for touring. I'm sure the same is true with that ROTJ kinda Rubies suit. It is why they engage us for their special events.

There is 100% a difference between the resin and real versions of this. The real version isn't much for trooping based on how flat out heavy it is to hang onto for hours at a time, but respect wise.... you can't beat it. Just don't show off your operational mods when the authorities are around. They on't take kindly to a working bolt and trigger mechanism.

Well done!

Dylan, thanks for posting this up! Great idea about the inner PVC to fill the slot, that works out perfect. Your new track should be coming sometime this week!

When I made the front sight for run 2, I was in a bad hurry since the first mold for the front sight was pretty complicated and all one piece and really hard to cast I had to come up with a new setup, which I use now, but since I cast a resin replica and has to clean it up and so on, I lost the pattern. Coming soon I will be molding a nice front sight in separate pieces, similar to now, but better, with the detailing all over

When I drill the holes in the bottom of the receiver for the bolt an handle I use the position of the charging handle fully forward to the edge. Not necessarily accurate, but for me, aesthetically it looks better. Easy enough to bring it back a little bit though. The holes are hidden under the grip and the resin bolt is easy enough to give it some new holes if you want to reposition in the build.

Nice looking tube there Vern.

Something to keep in mind, a blaster is not required for basic 501st approval. A blaster is only required if you intent to go for EIB and centurion levels on the forum. So technically you could troop with the blaster without counter and power cells, if you wanted.

DVH V1 had the FA bolt and charging handle that went straight through. However the bolt did not have the hole to accommodate the full charging handle and it had to be chopped anyways. For the V2 he took a resin copy of the V1 handle and cut it and molded that. Then he took a resin copy of the V1 bolt and hollowed it out to allow for electronics. I have an idea to keep the bolt as it is in my next iteration but to hand drill out the handle hole once the bolt is done curing. The complex nature of the mold as it is with the hole in the middle makes making this second hole very hard to make any longer then it already is, so drilling is an easy option. I will take the resin handle and extend it longer so that it drops into the bolt a lot more and sits much better, more securely. I think you are talking about the charging handle for the FA bolt? The handle is a solid piece of metal from top to bottom and is very hefty.

The DVH V1 kits has a full charging handle that goes through the full bolt. When he changed the bolt mold to be hollow, this was changed to make space for the hole in the bolt. I do agree that it needs to be longer and more secure. Again, another plan I have when I remold the remaining parts. Lots of plans, lots of plans

DD has the edge on me for that... !

Or you can go with the alternative.... me. Great communication, great product. Work is good and my paperwork is in order!

Hi, and welcome