Dday

I don't see and carbon under the white, just a rubber undersuit. Looks like the holster is some sort of a magnetic thing on their right thigh. You'll notice they are holding the guns in their right hand vs left like ANH. And in some screens you can see what looks to be an integrated mounting setup on their right thigh. Some sort of clips to close the shins on the sides vs closure in the back. E11 (or whatever it is called) looks to still be very similar to a sterling. The scope rail is there, folding stock, clip and so on... just everything is on the otherside of the gun for right handers instead of left. I do like that so far, the look is very similar to a TK, so far. But DANG it, they only give us the view of the helmet that we already have... I want a left view, right view, back something I can work with to make the base model.

Will be hitting refresh, pretty regularly today!

I feel the concessions like the backplate and TD were a way to appease the people who didn't want to give it legion acceptance. My feeling is soon enough we will see the comic style requirements removed in favor of the GG statue based on the other clone bust approval rule.

You, this was posted in a different thread, you can see the majority of is is recycled footage, and fan made stuff. But it is a top notch job.

If you plan to go for a HWT, the basics are simple. Build an ANH suit, top to bottom. The only difference you need to pay attention to is that for the HWT is you will not put a holster on, and will need a backpack. Everything else will be the same, even up to centurion standards. Centurion allows for weathering of the suit, but 100% be careful to not make it dirty. It is more of a very light touch for this. I remember seeing that you and take a newspaper and rub it along teh raised edges to get a little blackening of the ridges and gaps. It should look slightly used, not dirty.

Going smaller is always possible. Especially if they used a glue that is removable. Going bigger is harder generally speaking since you will need to add shims in most cases. Smaller is easy. You remove the coverstrips, slice the material smaller on each side (careful not too much) and put it back together.

There is no online ordering setup. Send him a PM here.

Get ready for this thread to blow up. Rumor is that we will see at least 2 shots of troopers in the trailer to be released on Friday. One helmet off and one of the troopers in a transport getting tossed about.

Heya, I would be happy to help. There are quite a few here who have done the conversion and I know that between all of us, we can help you out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You might look into how much you are using. Maybe you are using too much?

I find 24 hours is generally enough to set the majority of the E6000. But anything that gets 0 air will take much loner to cure hard. But it should. I've never had E6000 that doesn't cure at all.

My comment isn't a reference to your build but rather the proportions of the helmet itself.

How is the helmet in reality? It looks like it is too long in proportion to the suit.

I just keep this list because the signature block limits the number of links you can do, so I had to find another place to collect them... a post seemed a good place. And with Autoarchive, I need to keep it alive every 3 months, otherwise I won't be able to manage the post anymore.

Get as much of it off before using the gas. Scrape it, pick it and so on. It will make the gas work much better. I had to get duct tape residue off of some leather motorcycle pants, it was a bummer, but it came off after lots of scraping, gas, rubbing and so on.

Just keeping it alive so I can add more builds later.

Woot, all the ladies in the German Garrison (who ordered) are cheering! The helmet is still required?

The ID is 36.5mm I may look into getting an ID of 36 but I have to test out the fitting of my parts first before I go with a new size of tube. The bolt I make has a pass through hole about 10mm large for wiring so you can use the back of the E11 for a sound board, or batteries, or licorice.

The biggest problem with he little little dremel bits and aluminium is that as fast as the bits turn, they do a fair bit of melting at the same time as grinding. The alu melts just enough to REALLY get into the cracks and be really hard to get out since it is in all the little crevices in the bit.

Have the selector switch act as a button toggle for different sounds. 1 for Auto, 1 for semi and none for safe. That being said, that's a lot of internal hollowing out!

That is a good question as well. I am pretty sure unless you enter into a direct agreement with the maker that you want to buy the files to reproduce them for sale, it is a very grey area. Buying the files is generally for personal use and not for making multiple copies for sale.

You can also use a hard bristled wire brush to clean the bits out... but it takes time.

I have yet to find a nice sanding style blade for Aluminium, everything I use gets loaded up with Aluminium and becomes basically useless. Your standard dremel grinding disks are good for grinding and cutting but for sanding and cleaning, what I have used is a big wood and metal file. You know the one it's it like a foot long and has two different sides. This works out the big stuff and the fine side gets a nice fine grind to it. For the more detailed work I have one of those small metal file sets with 6 different files in it. The sanding drum can work as well on Aluminium but will wear out quickly. If you really want a multitool bit for shaping aluminium, first, don't get Dremel brand, they cost more. Generics work great, and get the metal bits like these. http://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/images/dremel.jpg

Your link worked, thanks for bringing that back up for new people to check out.

MIA - Missing In Action, meaning maybe you disappeared since there have been no updates recently.