gmrhodes13

Zeroroom's build may help http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/

Pictures would help, wearing armor will restrict your movements but it depends on the make, your size and how much movement you are trying to do.

I have a friend who owns an AM bucket, we think everyone else's buckets can fit inside it

Fabric should work for your neck seal. You may find the spanex undersuit too thin, armor tends to rub through material in places.

I have custom numbers in the hengstler but even if I didn't we all have different amounts of weathering so I can pretty much tell the difference if they are all on a table. There is also the electronics, a lot of us are slightly different to the other.

Marv has some nice tracks http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16395-t-track/

Nothing better than a BBB, good luck with the build, remember research is the key, measure twice and cut once

I have elastic straps that hook on the neck of the boot to the inside of my calves, works wonders, especially if you have to tackle stairs A great How Too here http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35329-howto-keeping-tk-shins-in-place/

I've done a few different, I've drilled into the scope, also made a recess, I have used a piece of cd inside for the reflective look, also silver tape, then added a cover of either Perspex or curved magnifier lens. There is a nice build here http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31359-m38-scope-build-from-dd-resin/

I used a thick and soft material, here it is called polar fleece. I made sure I made labels because of all the different sizes needed. You can still put armor inside other amror with these covers on so it still saves some room. From memory I squeezed in with 5 mtrs (147cm wide), wouldn't be worth making to ship to other countries as shipping would be costly, 5 meres adds up in weight.

Photos look great, nice work

I've seen someone working on animated armor on the RPF (replica prop forum)

I just laid the pieces on some newspaper and wrapped it around to find the size of material needed, then added a couple inches extra for sewing and edging.

I made soft cloth pouches for my TFA armor to protect the paint, has worked well so far.

I made mine the same as this Mine

Looking forward to the build

I used the electronics from a cheap toy then added some highbright LED and jack to run to the aker amp. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32912-ep7-nerf-sidearm-upgrade/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34197-qs-first-order-stormtrooper-build/ Sound and lights in action

TK Boots-----------------and Imperial Boots http://www.imperialboots.com/

Have a look in this thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19618-where-do-i-get-accurate-templates-for-my-blaster-build-bbcno/

Also some nice builds on the RPF replica prop forum

Also another tip is stuff them full of wet newspaper and leave for a few days to dry. The newspaper will swell up when it dries and can help stretch the leather.

I used E6000, yes it takes longer to dry but easy to pull apart if you make a mistake or need to change sizing, also easy to clean up excess glue by rubbing your thumb against it.

Great work all involved

You have to apply for L2 EIB first, once approved you can then apply to L3 Centurion

I believe one is in the works