gmrhodes13

We have a few guys with AP armor, all seem happy with the quality and how it is holding up.

More filler and sanding Ab boxes trimmed and glued 6 days in primer/filler applied and first trial fit Last box has arrived Assembly of the belt Another sand and another few coats of primer Testing a few of the smaller pieces with the white and clear coats, making sure it matches the helmet. Anovos specify Rustoleum paint but I vowed never to use it again after my clone build, most of the cans i used would clog or spray uneven. Decided to us acrylic automotive paint, Super Cheap had some on sale, their own SCA brand, I had used it before on the Rebels Stormtrooper helmet, dries quickly and can be sanded and buffed if needed At first I didn't think I would have enough time but this build has run smoother than I thought it would, 8 days in paint and clear coats applied and drying Let the paint dry out completely for another two days, final fitting and approval photos sent in Approved 21st November, number 2 for Australia With everything being painted transportation will be a pain, decided to make some soft material pouches for all the armor pieces Christmas upgrades, should have been used today at the Channel 7 Christmas Pageant but it was unfortunately cancelled due to forecasted rain and thunderstorms, first time in 44 years of the pageant, this is Australia in summer right?

The day finally arrived, big brown box, now the fun starts, best wear the appropriate attire Time to trim, can never say this enough, RESEARCH, makes a build so much easier, I have so many builds and photos download on the computer to follow, Anovos do not supply instructions Also made some spares clips just in case any pop off of break Time to assemble The dreaded chest update (much crisper lines), this was not the nicest part of the build but turned out fine Some more assembly, calf boxes, TD and belt boxes Also two more boxes arrived Snaps, clips and velcro added to spats, chest boxes trimmed Snaps and strapping glued Making a modification for the shoulders, on the screen armor there is a plate cut into the shoulder that holds the bell up but it leaves a weak area. This modifcation will do the same job without loosing any strength. Adding some ABS paste for strength then followed with bondo (filler) and sanded

Had been too busy getting this project together to post a build thread day by day so decided to just post one once I was finished. In no way will this build be documented as much as others, to those of you who took the time to document their builds in such fine detail for others to follow I thank you. "No Instructions" no problems if you have a detachement like FISD and it's members "Troopers Helping Troopers" Speaking of which a massive thank you to Jeroen (Svache) for allowing me to use his address and for forwarding on the boxes as Anovos does not ship to Australia. Started to get a few things ready for the armor arrival. First I'm going to modify a back support for the harness, will help my normal back pain. Started on the gaskets from Wyatt (these are much thinner than Anovos and allow more movement), as these are the earlier version I will modify them to be a one piece arm system. Giving everything a trim and working out how much to cut off the elbow sections. Applying some glue Attach the elastic straps, adjusters and velcro to the gaskets, can easily be replaced or shortened And finished Fans wired and ready for fitting Boots and gloves arrived Adding some velcro to both rubber and material gaskets Making some snap plates, elastic straps and inner support strips for the arms

I can't sit in a chair in armor, but I can use the corner of a table to rest on, or arm of a chair.

That's why he's not in the trailers

I used JB weld, left for 24hours, sanded then applied ABS slurry, let dry another 24hrs, sanded and applied bondo for any small holes or indents.

Congrats trooper

Looks like a good start, looking forward to the progress

Wet sanding stops the sandpaper from clogging, doesn't leave as much dust and it also removes small flecks and imperfections in the primer, you get a better sand wet than dry in my opinion

For those that have seen the photo and asked I will post some info, I didn't think I would have a lot of time to build the baton so really didn't take very many photos. This is not an accurate build, just eyed from screen grabs, with what ever I had around, just a replacement for a blaster. Made from scraps I had around, PVC pipe, scrap abs, a toilet plunger handle, an old light saber and some light blue EL wire. Inner tube 44mm Outer tube 50mm, cut straight down the middle. Silver sections 50mm, cut over centre (extra 10mm) width 16mm Silver sections for inner tube 50mm x 16mm, cut a slot with 5mm removed to fit over the 44mm tube then glued The baton will extend manually but I have to lock it in place with the addition of the EL wire. It shouldn't light up when folded but I'm thinking of keeping it folded around younglings, it does extend quite a way and I don't want to clobber any of them . Sound in action What it should look like http://pop.h-cdn.co/assets/15/47/1447949340-star-wars.gif Others have more accurate builds underway

You can keep sponging the armor while sanding, keeps the sandpaper from clogging. I've not had any issues before wet sanding the filler

Spray bottle or just a bucket of water with a sponge, if you add some dish washing liquid it will help the sandpaper glide and also clean any grease off. Give everything a wipe down with clean water after sanding to get rid of any left over grit or dust. I used 400 grit before primer, and gave the primer a dry light rub with 600 grit, gets rid of any dust or flecks of paint. If you sand in circle motion you won't leave any lines .

Congrats trooper

Congrats trooper

Congrats trooper

Awesome, need one to go with my baton

If they are too deep you can use spot putty, easier to sand and you can wet sand, shouldn't damage the paint

Best response I've seen "For the premieres, lets be smart, and give up the guns. Its just for a few nights. LFL already relaxed the rest of the request so that other events are up to us at local level. Call it "compromise". Each side gives just a little bit. Meet in the middle."

Sometimes the thinner in the paint can soak into previous coats of paint and also primer and it can sink, I would think the only way to get rid of the lines would be wait until it dries fully, sand and paint again.

Great work Clint, looks amazing

Great work, thanks for the share Clint

Beautiful work, came out great

Great detail, nice work

Looking great, nice work