gmrhodes13

Just one thing with your snaps the way they are, they do have a habit of releasing when connected on an angle, I'd suggest adding another angles of abs on both ends so there is not angled pulling I did a similar thing with my TD only using Velco.

Congratulations once again trooper and welcome to the ranks, looking forward to see you out there trooping, good luck

I'm going off what others have told me, it's not flexible as ABS plastic is and can be cracked in transport, which happened to someone who flew to the last celebration. Up to you what you want to make it out off, as I say for purchasing this is not a cheap hobby and there is some expense involved.

Great news, looking forward to the build progress

Using heat on plastic is an art and it can go from being slightly flexible to a molten mess, remember the plastic was stressed after heating and can start to return to it's natural state when reheated, I always suggest trying on off cuts first. Personally I find you have a lot more control with a heat gun, although it gives more heat than a water bath you can vary which sections are heated, giving a little pressure to say a round forearm then apply some heat it will gently go oval. Can't go wrong with Pinky's neck seals, looks great.

Looking good, nice work, you may just want to add some foam to behind your sniper plate to keep it away from your thigh, they can catch and crack. If you don't have room then place some foam in the back side of the thigh, it will help bring it backwards. Good luck with approval, if you wish too you could post in the Pre Approval Forum to get feedback

Looking good, nothing better than a BBB unpacking. TD has clips on the other side, you can make your own or find here Here is a reference of the TD I suggest staying on FISD for pieces, ebay and etsy are the best for accuracy. For hovi tips you can find here (he does without speakers too) When ever in doubt with trimming or references head to the gallery section here Good luck and looking forward to the progress.

Nice work, can't quite make out the handle but that wouldn't have any weathering, The grip from the original Sterlings was some kind of black plastic, which can be recreated with semi gloss or gloss black paint. Here's some info on screw sizes https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31442-m38-scope-screws/ and https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37894-scope-front-screws/

You can also find a thread in regards to Anovos here

I have heard of some issues with the printed armor, can fail in places as it is not as strong as ABS plastic or fibreglass. This hobby isn't cheap and it is up to you to research the costumes for pricing, currently there are the armor makers which I know members have, Anovos which is ABS plastic and people have been waiting for those pre orders since 2016, these have begun to ship just recently. KB props also does a ABS plastic kit you can find him on Facebook. There are also Jim's kits his are fibreglass and do take a little work to prep, he can also be found on Facebook. As I say you get what you pay for, if you just want a costume and not to join the 501st you can find pepakura files, foam builds and some 3D files, just takes some searching on Google. If you do want to join the 501st then you will have to part with some big $'s.

Great news, problem solved

Definitely a fashion statement Here is a supply list which may be of help

Looking good, a couple of adjustments you could make (but shouldn't hold you up for basic, dependant on your GML) Tube stripes should be a pencil width from the side of the cheek, this may be changing in upcoming CRL updates so you may need to address those but you could apply for EIB and see if you receive centurion feedback for those . Can't quite make out your hovi tip mesh but the standard Anovos mesh needs to be changed for a more accurate mesh. Also the insides of the hovi tips are white and have a white rim. I would also look at adding a little more paint on your teeth, they are quite short (Anovos helmets sometimes have overspray which would need to be removed also) Good luck looking forward to the progress

Ear alignment at the moment is only a suggested "ideal look" and not a must for Centurion. If you did want to adjust these (depending on how Anovos helmets are assembled) normally you remove the ears screws and see if the angle can be adjusted, take not of any gap between the ear and helmet and if any sanding will be required, you will need to either elongate the current screw holes or drill new ones. Some ear fitting tutorials: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41250-ear-trimming-made-easy/ ----------- Tube stripes should be a pencil width from the side of the cheek, this may be changing in upcoming CRL updates so you may need to address those but you could apply for EIB and see if you receive centurion feedback for those . Can't quite make out your hovi tip mesh but the standard Anovos mesh needs to be changed for a more accurate mesh. Also the insides of the hovi tips are white and have a white rim. ----------- I would also look at adding a little more paint on your teeth, they are quite short (Anovos helmets sometimes have overspray which would need to be removed also) Good luck looking forward to the progress

Really hard to say, they don't seem as prominent in this image though but the centre raised section still appears to follow that of the nose.

Looking forward to the progress and of course more referent images. Appears the armor also has a lot of differences to a standard FOTK, looks like a new set of armor may be on the cards. There is also something weird on top of the shoulder bell, perhaps it's one of these I'm still not sold on the artwork though, different versions FOTK helmets 7 and 8 mixed together.

Nice work on those fixes. Looks like your ab buttons are a little off with spacing, lowest rivet starts above the lower cod ridge.

Check out the reference gallery too

^^^^^What he said 2 piece has definitely been of use on more than one occasions, nothing worse than having to fully de-kit just for a toilet break, a bit of jiggling and done

Fingers crossed it's most if not all of them.

Nice work, as suggested some more photos would help, just a couple of things I can see right away, shoulder bells are too far away from your shoulder straps, thighs could come up a bit, your right shin looks very wide at the base. Cover strips look very narrow and can see a lot of the ridges on the thighs and shins but again better photos would help. Also looks like your forearms have the same issue with the narrow cover strips. AB and belt are on an angle, may be the way you suited up, could be a strapping issue. Throw up some more photos for us and we can give you a better idea of how you are looking

Looking forward to the progress good luck

I don’t think I’ve seen a WTF kit as ESB, there aren’t very many ESB centurions. I made my own decals, I scanned a set of Dave M decals I had and changed a few sizes to suit my ATA helmet then filled and drew new lines, then printed on glossy adhesive sheet, also gave a coat of gloss clear to stop the print being rubbed off. It was a bit of work but the only way I could get exactly what I wanted. Ive also seen people cut paper to he shape of their traps then scan and do the same photoshopping then print. Could be an option if you don’t have any other luck.

They need to be a complete decal, white is also in between the blue stripes, unlike painted stripes of ANH -----------

Really not sure you will have to reshape the fronts of your forearms, remember once glued you need to get your hands through the opening. Cover strips should lay flat and be just short of the raised edges. I have small forearms and have some foam inside to stop the forearms from moving around.