gmrhodes13

I wouldn't trim too much especially if you have thin arms as they can flop around if trimmed too much. I also have some foam in mine for just that reason.

You can also cover a thin piece of metal in sandpaper and tape together, helps to keep the sandpaper straight and also to get into fine areas rather than just holding.

Every piece adds up in the end, moving along nicely

Nice work. Position of your thigh ammo strip appears a little high on the ridge

Nice work

Good luck, hopefully you won't have to wait too long

They can differ from maker to maker References here show a taper in some areas.

The smaller the bit the more control. Nothing worse than the bit grabbing and taking a chunk out of the side. This is what I normally use but managed to fine a finer one just recently which I've not tried as yet.

Insert happy dance Wooohoooo, now open that box and let the panic set in

Real life comes first, just remember every little bit adds up in the end

Have a look at the datasheet I posted there are differences between hero and stunt. lots of Hero pieces are different, lenses, ears, screws, holster

It's ANH Ep4, just waiting to see if its Stunt or Hero version

Deep breathing may be needed, that and the odd alcoholic beverage

Firstly are you building a Stunt or Hero version, CRL's here: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_hero For stunt you don't need bubble lenses: Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. Here is a spreadsheet of the differences https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view Some bubble lens sellers in this thread https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44782-bubble-lenses/

Happy days, nothing like BBB photos, looking forward to seeing your build, remember research is the key and measure twice and cut once, good luck

You could also remove the stitching and shorten the elastic and resew Anywhere that would flex it would be better to paint before gluing as the paint could crack along the join. I had no issues spraying into crevasses, I normally do a light coat or two in any crevasses first before painting the rest of the pieces.

Here is a recent approved Centurion WTF kit for comparison You will however need to fill the open section in the lower ridge, either ABS scrap glued behind or add ABS paste and fill/sand/polish

You could always use a material that is easily polished off like charcoal, graphite powder or water based paint

Well we did have a member with the nickname CLAMPS but you may very well have be on par with him lol.

Oh happy days, looking forward to seeing some photos. Long time since opening my first BBB but reliving it every time someone shares their excitement. Looking forward to seeing the build, remember research is the key, measure twice and cut once, good luck.

It's one of those kits that are on my to do list, have always loved the details, only $'s holding me up. Great work as usual.

Nice work, a few things you could address while waiting for more uploaded photos: You may want to adjust the gaps at your elbows, there is a lot of black showing, bring your forearms up and also bring hand plates back a little they look too far forward. Drop boxes should align with the ends of your belt plastic section. Small ab plate could be trimmed a little more. Mic tips (hovis) should have white rim.

Congratulations and welcome to the EIB ranks trooper

Hello and welcome aboard, good luck with the research

Just bumping so it doesn't get buried Cricket made me aware that the CRL full image has the incorrect TD (although the TD detail image also needs updating )