gmrhodes13

For any imperfections I like to use bondo (automotive filler) dries quite quickly and can be sanded in varies grades to get a nice smooth end result. For final scratches or pinholes I use blade putty (final glaze) finer and a wet consistency and takes some time to harden but great for fine imperfections. I found with my Sithtrooper armor from Jim that I could sand the whole armor with a block and 120 grit sandpaper and it got rid of a lot of imperfections, low and high spots, then applied two coats of spray putty.

The full trooper CRL image with TD is incorrect, something that should be changed with the upcoming TLJ review, the CRL had an update, if you check the actual TD image the cap is black and longer. It however does not have the black line at the top. It is believed that the whole inner section is a tube and the outer shell had been cut and is open where you see black, so the inner tube floats so to speak. Also the back section is in two pieces, the main ribbed plate and the TD mount as you can see in the bottom image.

Very nice

Actually I find with automotive paint that enamels are a little more elastic than acrylic, but enamel is soft and acrylic dries hard. Acrylic paint does dry quickly and will crack under strain, I have found this on my shoulder areas of my FOTK chest/back plate. What I have liked with the acrylic is that you can buff and compound scratches and marks and the gloss will come up shiny again, with all paints there are going to be some areas that will rub through. Standard original trilogy armor does not need paint but R1 and FOTK armor does, check out some of those builds to see how people have gone about painting and what they have used

Hello and welcome aboard, looking forward to seeing those BBB photos, exciting times, remember research is the key and measure twice and cut once, when in doubt check the Gallery sections for references Good luck

Different make helmets assemble slightly differently, the faceplate appears a little high (which a Sandtrooper normally is), also moving the bottom back piece further forward at the bottom will close those gaps, it will also bring the gap up at the front brow. It's a bit of playing around and slight movements, any gaps on the sides should be covered with the ears, both sides don't always match up either depends on make. Magnets and clamps help making the adjustments. Here are some great build threads which could help:

With the TD for TLJ they have an all black endcap not just a strip of black I think you will find that the ridges are softer the image above appear very sharp. Here are a few more references

Nothing better than BBB photos, good luck with the build

Hello and welcome aboard there's a few bits that could be upgraded like the an buttons, but ultimately it's up to your GML

Local material shop, foam for pading chairs

Looking forward to seeing those BBB photos

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

You will find sometimes that armor can only be sized so small before it looks a little odd, you may very well have to add some foam inside on some pieces, I have on my my armor due to being very skinny. Make sure you compare to reference material just to make sure you aren't trimming down too much, easy to trim off but hard to put back on

Most armor can be resized, AM would be the largest armor available so I would have a look at other pieces on as well to see if you will need to sized down any of those, you may find it would be easier to on sell and purchase an armor that would fit you better. Try the chest and ab with the thighs and shins to see if you do have any clearance, AM kits are not only wide but long in the thigh compared to other armor kits. Note the thigh ammo strip rivets are wrong and mounted in the wrong spot, should be @10mm in from the corner and is also overhanging a little

I have tabs on the front of mine, a loop of elastic through with snaps on the end which attach to the inner front of the shins, helps to keep them straight and pulled down when bending

A lot of my costumes have padding in the arms and thighs because of my thin frame, if you attach velcro to the foam then you can remove and wash if it gets sweaty

Nice work, looking good, you could adjust your belt on the rear to sit straight, but should be good to go

Forum does not use BBcode, use "direct link" option

You want to use the "direct link" option

The standard TK boots are a little taller than most after market boots so compare the heights with the image link I posted earlier, they need to stay under your shins, if they are too low they will pop out. Ultimately it is your GML (garrison membership liaison) who will approve your costume so you should check with him/her.

He would need to be 501st and then EIB approved for it to count to the program. You also need a minimum of 5 EIB approved which you have helped for the first award to be granted.

Nice try but not quite, love the photo

Yes cod for TLJ are a little more angled and straighter on the sides and longer curved neck.

On with the work. I do like to double snap in some places that take some strain, like the shoulders, just in case you have a snap fail it still allows you to troop

To count towards the master armorer program the armor you have helped build must be EIB approved "The FISD Master Armorer program is an optional, detachment only incentive award to recognize individuals who have directly helped another 501st stormtrooper to achieve Expert Infantry status. Some people spend countless hours helping others, and want to reward their results as well as incentivizing new people to help as well" "To register a “win” in the program, the assistance must have provided hands-on help trimming, building, and/or fitting of said armor for the person who was awarded Expert Infantry status. Other program notes: • Helping remotely, giving advice, or taking payment in exchange for help does not account, all work must be voluntary and without expectation of compensation. • The assistance must be for a period of 30 minutes or more. Spending 15 minutes tweaking someone’s fitting or taking photos does not count. • "wins" can be retroactive, e.g. if you helped 5 people in 2017 already, those can count as long as they are fully documented." More information can be found here: