gmrhodes13

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Color matching the paint will be the problem, I prefer using automotive acrylic paint, dries quickly and can be sanded and buffed/polished. I would suggest getting it professionally color matched as least then it won't look out of place Many have used Krylon paints and seem to have no issues (as long as you aren't too heavy) but we don't have that down under so can't comment further. We do have Rustoleum and I'll never use that again, some cans can be great but others spurt and come out in blobs no matter how long you shake them for

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Very nice, getting there

Congratulations and welcome to the centurion ranks trooper

Make sure you wear undersuit and most importantly your boots, can make a huge difference with boots on

That image wasn't really there for reference of width of the cover strip, more showing the extra material on the sides of the cover strips, 20mm is standard front and 25mm on the back

It is quite a difference, almost like 2 completely different armors BUT suppliers can change and there can be a big difference over time as you have found. Color matching may work but it can be a lot of messing around. I recently found some U trim I wanted to add to armor was way too white so I played with some water based acrylic paint and luckily was able to get a pretty good match, but it's not the type of paint you want to on your pieces as you want them to be nice and smooth. Before paint (note armor is RS and very cream) After paint Some automotive paint suppliers will color match paint and supply in aerosol so you may be able to get a pretty good match, not sure what price. The only other thing I would think could happen is trying to match with a different armor make, you may have more luck there but still it would mean purchasing new pieces. I think paint may be the cheaper option

Some screen references posted in your build thread, you do end up with some raised section which isn't covered, mainly on the top and the bottom, they are also a bit wobbly in between. I mark 10mm in the closet to the outer ridges in a few places, use a straight edge to mark and go with that. Remember too that one will be covered with a sniper plate

There will be some raised area which will not be covered

The poster of this thread has not been on the forums since July 2017 There may have been changes made to the CRL (costume reference library) but currently it states: Tube stripes are black with between (9) and (16) per side with the curve bends extending backwards.

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You will find that character is covered by the Flagship Eclipse, their forum can be found here https://www.theflagshipeclipse.com/ Here is the costume reference library https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:SL_SWTOR-Sith_Acolyte

FYI a lot of the chatter loops can be found on legion boards https://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=28538 I use a couple on an mp3 player that I run to the aker amp, depends on what character or what background effect I'm looking for.

We know from the era of Phasma and Captain Cardinal that it was TFA, just because a toy supplier makes a figure or helmet a certain way does not make it right From memory (and mine is bad) I'm pretty sure it mentions Cardinal is like other Stormtroopers but red and also has a cape in the book. TLJ style buckets where not officially seen until The Last Jedi, anything prior to that would be TFA style and Cardinal is long gone by then, is a civvies in the Batuu story line. Even Galaxy's Edge is wrong, there are Stormtroopers on display wearing TLJ helmets BUT the Stormtroopers walking around are wearing TFA, who knows why, they probably don't even realize it. This also happens with game versions, there are differences between what we see in a game opposed to realistic armor so some things will be allowed for approval and higher levels, just because an artist has drawn a character a certain way does not make it correct, we know how it SHOULD look. At the end of the day the LMO's make the call, they know the era the character comes from and they know what is wrong with the figure, I would suggest taking it up with them as they make the decision AND they don't always agree with other LMO's [email protected] Mountain trooper is one that in the past was never going to become a costume BUT the last LMO's decided to make it so even thought there is no screen reference, LMO's and what they allow can change significantly from year to year, who knows they may even let a Dark Rey be a costume in the future but for now that one is a BIG NO.

Looking forward to seeing the progress, if you have any issues adding photos this is a helpful thread, good luck with the build

This also has a lot of 3D lines that can be seen, the counter is in the wrong spot, too far back, there is a lug/key which would also need to be filled on the right front of the barrel. The images are not very big so hard to see much of the detail but you can definitely see lines in a lot of areas. Anyone purchasing 3D printed blasters or parts has to be wary of lines, it is a lot of work filling these lines, that's why you see so many people offering kits unfinished, if you haven't worked with 3D printed parts before I would suggest doing a little research. Unfortunately a lot of suppliers recently of quality blasters have stopped supply for what ever reason, until someone comes along supply a reasonable product at a reasonable price it is very hard to recommend anyone. I would advise having a look through other build threads and EIB and Centurion threads to see what other blasters people have been using, and always when looking at purchasing check against reference material

Shouldn't be an issue. We try to keep standard sizing on the front as that is what is seen from the public, then add more on the rear if you need more space

Nice work, looking forward to seeing the progress

You should be ok but DO's will have final say, but you will have to trim those button covers which will give you more room, they shouldn't have angled corners

Not as it is, need a lot of filling and sanding, you can see a lot of print lines 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. , also the scope and counter (not a full counter either) are not in the right position and that's just a 10 second look, research is the key, I would suggest comparing anything you find to those references in the E-11 sections

You could still use your original plastic belt section you have and add the thinner nylon belt to it Comparisons of centurion approvals

Nice work, just make sure you keep paint away from the gums, looks to be a touch on the gums in a couple of places but may be the angle of the photo Some references