gmrhodes13

Disney recently applied restrictions of the amount of merchandise that can be produced so there aren't as many runs of different merchandise as there used to be. There are also restrictions on what can be produced, all merchandise is overseen by legion command and any run over 250 pieces also needs Disney approval. Most of the standard merchadise is patches, challenge coins, racing shirts, pins, tshirts and caps but there can be others and these can take place in runs. There can be no profit made on any merchandise run. Runs are normally held by the merchandise officer or a volunteer member. Some runs don't happen very often, racing shirts are one of those and normally are ever couple of years. The 501st, detachments and some garrisons do trading cards, have a search on Google images you will see quite a few. Yes you can hand these out to the public, also can be traded with other members. Locally we purchased 501st - Garrison rubber wrist bands which we hand out to younglings at events, with parents knowledge and approval. We ave also given out colouring pages. There are however restrictions on some events as to what can be handed out, we used to hand out stickers but we can no longer do so at our local convention. Hope that's answered a few of your questions. Info on challenge coins

Perhaps loosen the elastic from backplate to kidney then see if the backplate can come up and in more, a small gap there shouldn't be an issue.

It's not a build without an armor bite or two

Nice work, feedback left on your pre approval thread (yes I mentioned the large rear tabs )

Nice work, nothing major sticking out, just looks like some tweaks may be needed. You have a big gap between your back and backplate, I would tighten the strapping in between the chest and backplate. Also normally on the front the shoulder straps should be 1 large tab and 4 to 5 smaller tabs, yours looks like 1 large tab and 1 and 1/2 small tabs, AP may only allow a certain amount of ridges though due to the angles on the chest much like ATA, I only have 2 and 1/2 small tabs. Thighs could come up a little, would give you a little more room at the knees, also adding some foam behind the sniper plate can help pull it away from the bottom of your thigh. Slightly different gaps at the wrists. You can see some of your undersuit bulging next to your shoulder bells, you can make adjustments when taking photos (especially on the back image for L2 L3 photos as the gaps are quite large on the rear photo ) Normally when I add some support material to the shoulder straps I only add it where the strap doesn't sit on the armor, this is because if you do it all the way it does increase the height of the shoulder straps, as you can see in the below image, may not be an issue just take note. Also not the separation between your strap and support piece at the front It may also just be the lighting but your tube stripes looks very very dark, you may need to adjust your lighting when taking photos of them. You can also remove the large tab from the back shoulder strips as well if you like although not a requirement. (make sure you have made all your adjustments first) NOTE: As seen in the photos below, there are no large tabs on the rear of the shoulder bridges. This is not specifically mentioned in the CRL, but removing them is highly recommended if possible. Note how low your neck sits on this back photo compared to references, this may because of the loose strapping. Right rear calf not completely closed. I'd normally suggest your TD to sit a little further down BUT both AP and ATA have smaller pipes than other makes which make them look thin and long and they sit a little higher. Last one, try to use a contrasting background, makes it easier for your GML/GWL to edit your photos for membership profile, thread on the subject here I really don't think you will have much trouble with your GML, good luck hope to see you approved soon

Bookmark this thread it contains quite a lot of useful links, this one incldued

Am I OK as is for Level 1 approval? You should be but it's entirely up to your GML. These are L2 and L3 requirements Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. Tears/traps are hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). I'm confused, I already have decals on this helmet; don't understand this suggestion... Greg Your decals do not appear hand painted, the Dave M decals appear hand painted, lines are not perfectly straight, tube stripes different shapes and thicknesses These are Dave M available from trooperbay, compare these with your helmet.

Somewhere else on this site is an image showing it to be 4.25" long, ummm... I've only ever used those references I posted, not sure about the 4.25" BUT the CRL does say approximately Do the wider straps end at the ABS plate? The clips end at the control panel plate Some more references here

Clips should be: Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Also take note with the clips, the ends touching the control panel are sharp corners, not rounded like the other ends The ABS cover piece is about 1/2" too long. Do I try to unglue it to shorten it? Depends how they have been glued, I'm not sure what glue SDS uses, you may want to reach out and check, if it's a permanent glue you may destroy the plate trying to remove it References Disregard the black paint There is also some leeway on the length The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).

I can't bend my knees very far and I have a larger gap. Mobility cuts may help a little but you'll never have full moment, that's the downside to wearing armor. I have to crab walk up stairs, it don't look pretty but get's me there

ATA used to supply Hero ears if requested, unfortunately with his passing they aren't available BUT ATA used to send out 2 sets of ears, you could perhaps but a wanted to buy post up, you may get lucky. Again this issue could be the shade of white not matching. Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. Tears/traps are hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). Tube stripes also need to appear hand painted. A sneaky trick is with the black lines draw over with a permanent marker so they appear painted. If you want to use decals I'd suggest Dave M from trooperbay https://www.trooperbay.com/products/dave-m-helmet-hand-painted-look-decals-anh-stormtrooper-star-wars-cosplay?_pos=1&_psq=decals+dave+m&_ss=e&_v=1.0

This is the issue using different makers parts the color difference can be quite noticeable I guess if you wanted to do all the work you could fill the gap between the button and plate, fill with bondo, milliput or some other filler, then sand and paint.

This is the wrong snaps, you want these: You could trim your sniper plate, the inner top curve as well and straighten the ends Past centurion apps:

Lot's a lot in your helmet, I can barely get my head in mine and I only have fans. I can only see well out of 5% of the lens, they are pretty useless most of the time

I sew on as some of the iron on sticky backing isn't very strong

This is why many of us use an online image host such as Imgur, upload your photos there then copy and paste the links into your thread/post. How to guide here

Armor: Jimmiroquai - Origin PHILIPPINES: Kits are partially assembled/fully trimmed lightweight fiberglass (ready for rigging and painting). No issues with quality or service reported. Contact for delivery times/price details. FB Link Here, Email Here or send a private message @jimmiroquai

Thigh tops can be different or match it's up to you, ATA molds are a little different to many other makes, notice originally the left leg has a step You want to make sure they appear centered when closed. I just split the difference as you are only talking about a couple of mm's. There is also a thicker/industrial velcro which I find works better than standard velcro. Make sure you rough up the back of it to help it hold to the glue Standard velcro Industrial I also found they don't close very well and do need some heat to bend so they will lay a little flatter and close fully

Can't quite tell in this image but are the front of the shoulder straps glued?, I only ask as I believe SDS use velcro

A couple of references for you ck.

Indeed, you can find examples of the amor bending in most of the newer movies and streaming series, amazing how much you notice when you get into this costuming and researching hobby. You can never watch them.the same way

Be interesting to see how he does it, whether he has a color similar or have to paint/dye it that color. Please don't tell me it's Rustoleum, I HATE that paint