Clamps

Brenton, can you post an image of the S-trim you bought and also the specific part number info at HD/Lowes?

Congrats! Welcome to Centurion. Outstanding looking kit sir!

Ps, very creative shoulder solution.

Great progress. Make sure your test fittings are wearing your undersuit and not street clothes. The fit WILL be different. In all your test fit photos above it appears that you have on either baggy pants or jeans. If you size based on that, everything will be very loose when you wear the under suit

the only way to make the foam petal work for me is to use the chin strap (i have it installed). I don;t like using the chin strap, so I opted for the mitch pads and they hold nice, easy to remove and wash if needed. Keep up the great progress!

Nice progress on the bucket... how is the fit with all those mitch pads. I have the same kind and I can only use a couple in the front and back. No sides and top as it sits too high on my noggin.

Congrats on a great looking kit Good luck with your Centurion request!

I joined my edges under the the front, as that area is black and it helps hide the seam. I put my S-trim with the flat part on the outside. I cannot confirm which is "correct, but I liked the cleaner-flush look when mounted.

Congrats trooper, once you see your 501st.com profile, head over to this thread to get your 501st access.

I have an AP kit and I had to shorten my forearm by a full notch on both arms to prevent my pieces from locking up when I bent my arm. Just be sure that IF you require to do so, do it from the wrist end

The ab/kidney split rivets placement is listed in the CRL level 3 text "Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets, the heads should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note:For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet." Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note: For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet." The thigh ammo connection should be split or Cap rivet (not standard rivet)

nicely done with the clips

Congrats Trooper! Great Job! Welcome to EIB

Andy, you looked great and it was a big surprise to see you there. Like I mentioned to you at the show, we passed in the hall and it didn't register that it was you (as I was not expecting you to make it down) until I saw you kitted up in this beauty at the booth. FANTASTIC looking in person... Snoova too!

I had to make that cut on my AP kit, I had no problems with approvals. I would recommend cleaning up that area and making it straight and properly sanded. it looks kinda sloppy in the photo.

Listing of Garrisons and the regions they serve are found here: http://www.501st.com/members/displayUnits.php#garrisons New Jersey specifically would be: 501stner.com

Congrats on your EIB Trooper!!

Sweet Pickles!

Looking great. Nice painting!

I used Tandy worked great for me with my nylon based snap plates. Almost 30 troops in with zero failures.

congrats and welcome to Centurion Trooper...looking great!!

Congrats on your EIB appointment!

we should update your screen name to TK Blasterservnt!! thanks for chiming in with the details!

I believe the core differences are that the ESB does not have the ammo counter attached and no power cylinders on the magazine housing. There is a Promo blaster that has other differences, but I don;t recall... you can check the CRL for those details.

Fun! Blaster side project!